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Car Forum / MINI / September 2003wheel bearing torque settings
Hi How come there is such a difference for the torque settings for 1275GT and coopers compared to other models, is a different type of bearing fitted? The haynes manual quotes 150 lb/ft for 1275 and Cooper and 60 lb/ft for the rest later Gary > How come there is such a difference for the torque settings for > 1275GT and coopers compared to other models, is a different type of > bearing fitted? Roller verses ball bearings? Disk brake hub verses drum brake hub? Our open classic has disc brakes and taper bearing, i took it as being in the 'others' at 60 lb/ft! am i right? later Gary > > How come there is such a difference for the torque settings for > > 1275GT and coopers compared to other models, is a different type of [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > Disk brake hub verses drum brake hub? Can't say for sure on Minis, not having done them yet, but when setting the taper bearings on other cars you're usually tightening until snug or a few in/lb or a couple of ft/lb - usually something like 2x finger tight then backing off and finger tightening. The VW Jetta is wierd. Alldata says you should tighten until snug, back off 1/2 a turn then tighten it until you can only just move the washer with a screwdriver. It's true! > Our open classic has disc brakes and taper bearing, i took it as > being in the 'others' at 60 lb/ft! am i right? [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] >> >> Disk brake hub verses drum brake hub? No. All the disc brake cars except early Coopers (non-'S') are 150 or 170 lb/ft. The figure was increased sometime in the 90's. No idea why!  SignatureRgds Steve steve@dsnclassics.co.uk www.dsnclassics.co.uk > Our open classic has disc brakes and taper bearing, i took it as being in > the 'others' at 60 lb/ft! am i right? [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > > > Disk brake hub verses drum brake hub? And geepeetee was sitting next to Elvis in the spaceship, which I thought was kinda strange, but then they turned to me and said: > Hi > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > The haynes manual quotes 150 lb/ft for 1275 and Cooper and 60 lb/ft for the > rest Those models introduced disc brakes and taper roller wheel bearings. (funny thing is, the rest of the range got those later, but they never altered the torque figures.) Signature(-AD-) <uniqueid 'at' lineone.net> http://website.lineone.net/~uniqueid/ We are all in the gutter, and some of us are seeing stars. So do those in the know set a 92 car with discs and tapers to 60 or 150 lb/ft? Gary > And geepeetee was sitting next to Elvis in the spaceship, which I thought > was kinda strange, but then they turned to me and said: [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > http://website.lineone.net/~uniqueid/ > We are all in the gutter, and some of us are seeing stars. And geepeetee was sitting next to Elvis in the spaceship, which I thought was kinda strange, but then they turned to me and said: > So do those in the know set a 92 car with discs and tapers to 60 or 150 > lb/ft? I always do them up to 150. In theory, only tightening to 60 shouldn't matter as long as the bearing preload is taken up and the nut is locked so it can't loosen. > > > The haynes manual quotes 150 lb/ft for 1275 and Cooper and 60 lb/ft for > the [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > (funny thing is, the rest of the range got those later, but they never > > altered the torque figures.) Signature(-AD-) <uniqueid 'at' lineone.net> http://website.lineone.net/~uniqueid/ (Not affiliated with the AD dehydrated fish company of Sweden). I think the answer is that discs use 150 ft-lbs and drums use 60 ft-lbs. Just as a point of comparison the Metro uses 160 ft-lbs and these are very similar to the late Mini discs. Cheers, Kelley >Hi > [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > >Gary not something i have done yet on my mini, but are the minis adjustable for preload on the tapered bearings? because thats when you adjust to the fingertight sort of method if they are adjustable, the non adjustable you just do up tight and go really. on non adjustable tapered bearings the inner races of the two bearings actually meet in the centre the non adjustable do not meet. cheers steve. > I think the answer is that discs use 150 ft-lbs and drums use 60 > ft-lbs. [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > > > >Gary And DROPBEAR was sitting next to Elvis in the spaceship, which I thought was kinda strange, but then they turned to me and said: > not something i have done yet on my mini, but are the minis adjustable for > preload on the tapered bearings? [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > inner races of the two bearings actually meet > in the centre the non adjustable do not meet. By 'adjustable' you mean something like Jaguar wheel bearings, with the shims between the bearings that you can interchange? Mini taper roller sets consist of a pair of bearings and a solid spacer that fits between the inner races. The preload is obtained by tightening the nut up until the inner races are clamped down hard against the spacer. There's no means of adjusting the preload - when they are worn, the bearing set must be replaced completely. Signature(-AD-) <uniqueid 'at' lineone.net> http://website.lineone.net/~uniqueid/ Come to Sunny Morecambe! (Excerpt from prev.msg) 'Mini taper roller sets consist of a pair of bearings and a solid spacer that fits between the inner races. The preload is obtained by tightening the nut up until the inner races are clamped down hard against the spacer. There's no means of adjusting the preload - when they are worn, the bearing set must be replaced completely.' With respect, I have to disagree with the 'There's no means of adjusting the preload...' statement. There is, but it's a bit of a pain. Situation: you've got a new set of taper roller bearings; you tighten everything up, BUT there's still too much end-float. It happens, trust me. The solution is to lap the spacer between the bearings on a surface plate (a piece of plate glass is OK) with wet-and-dry emery paper. First thing you do is measure the spacer thickness, then start lapping off ~ .001 at a time turning frequently as you lap. Using a spare driveshaft/joint assemble the hub etc. and check for clearance. Keep lapping until you get what my Ford shop manual describes as 'a light drag'. If set properly, the bearings should last a very long time. I did my '77 Moke about 20 years ago, and have subsequently done a few for other people. Loctite on the inner races isn't a bad idea, either. John Mackesy And John Mackesy was sitting next to Elvis in the spaceship, which I thought was kinda strange, but then they turned to me and said: > With respect, I have to disagree with the 'There's no means of adjusting the > preload...' statement. There is, but it's a bit of a pain. Situation: you've > got a new set of taper roller bearings; you tighten everything up, BUT > there's still too much end-float. It happens, trust me. I've seen that happen a few times, and it's usually down to two causes (assuming the parts department hasn't given you the wrong bearings!) 1. at some point it's been run with a bearing so knackered that the outer race has been rotating in its housing, wearing it badly. 2. the tapered collar has locked onto the axle before the bearing assembly is fully home - it's important to follow the factory method of using a plain washer to pull the bearings up tight, then fitting the tapered collar and torquing up the nut. > The solution is to lap the spacer between the bearings on a surface plate (a > piece of plate glass is OK) with wet-and-dry emery paper. First thing you do > is measure the spacer thickness, then start lapping off ~ .001 at a time > turning frequently as you lap. Using a spare driveshaft/joint assemble the > hub etc. and check for clearance. Keep lapping until you get what my Ford > shop manual describes as 'a light drag'. I've seen that done, and it seems to work. I consider wheel bearings as a consumable - when they're worn, I just replace them. They cost less than a decent tyre, after all. Signature(-AD-) <uniqueid 'at' lineone.net> http://website.lineone.net/~uniqueid/ What are we all waiting for? > I've seen that happen a few times, and it's usually down to two causes > (assuming the parts department hasn't given you the wrong bearings!) > > 1. at some point it's been run with a bearing so knackered that the outer > race has been rotating in its housing, wearing it badly. Spot on. It is a very common fault with later 12" wheeled cars. Something in the design seems to allow this to happen. Maybe it is your second point about the taper washer. SignatureRgds Steve steve@dsnclassics.co.uk www.dsnclassics.co.uk |
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