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Car Forum / MINI / November 2006Temperature Gauge troubleshooting
(I did a search first, and found a few posts that confirm my initial observations. I'm hoping someone can give me a firmer answer.) My Mini's temperature gauge does not appear to be working. The needle is way down at the bottom. The wires going from the temperature sensor to the dashboard appears to be good (light blue/green). Connector #3 at the dash is giving a pulsating +12v. My fuel guage is working. Does this mean it's a temperature guage? > (I did a search first, and found a few posts that confirm my initial > observations. I'm hoping someone can give me a firmer answer.) [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > at the dash is giving a pulsating +12v. My fuel guage is working. > Does this mean it's a temperature guage? No...it means that you are a retard. Just sell that thing and get a real car! > (I did a search first, and found a few posts that confirm my initial > observations. I'm hoping someone can give me a firmer answer.) [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > at the dash is giving a pulsating +12v. My fuel guage is working. > Does this mean it's a temperature guage? This all needs to be done while the engine is cold Find the temperature sending unit it will be slender and in most cases have a single wire attached, it can be located on the side of the block, water inlet close to the thermostat housing, on the head it self. If your mini has an electric fan there will be a temperature switch close to the radiator and will usually have two wires attached. If your car has an oil pressure gauge this will make it easier the oil sending unit will have a metal bulb with a wire on the end if it. This is not the temperature sending unit. After you Find the wire to the temperature sending unit unplug the wire, roll the key to the on state if the gauge swings to the far right this will show the gauge working in an un-grounded state if the gauge does nothing, next take a test probe with a low current lamp in it, make sure it is a low current, some of the low current types use a .05ma LED in them Using the test probe make a connection between the temp lead wire and the block lock at the gauge it should swing to about half If all the above happened as described above use have a problem with the sending unit, clean the connection if this does not resolve the issue replace the temperature sending unit. If the sending unit is located any where an air pocket can be created do not remove the radiator cap, this will cause a hot spot in the engine, this will result in you having to pressure bleed the cooling system forcing any trapped air out of the cooling system. Hope this helps you out >> (I did a search first, and found a few posts that confirm my initial >> observations. I'm hoping someone can give me a firmer answer.) [quoted text clipped - 37 lines] > > Hope this helps you out Thought you were leaving the group? I guess you just like to talk. Apart from ignoring the abuse from our friendly backwards/inbred Troll, exactly what year/model Mini do you have? Taffy > Apart from ignoring the abuse from our friendly backwards/inbred Troll, > exactly what year/model Mini do you have? > > Taffy Why don't you listen to your own advice? Are you just thick? I have an unknown vintage Mini. From all indications, it appears to be mid-80's, with a 1275 engine. It has a mechanical fan. I've found the sending unit, and attached to it is a LightBlue/Green wire, which goes all the way back to the dashboard's wiring harness. When I unplug the wire and KOEO, the temperature gauage does NOT move (needle down). (My gauge goes up and down, not left and right.) I've checked that the sending unit is putting up some resistance, but I can't remember how much. So, you are saying if I short the temp wire to the block, with a low current test light acting as a resistor, my gauge should move half-way, correct? Alon > Find the temperature sending unit it will be slender and in most cases > have a single wire attached, it can be located on the side of the block, [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > > Hope this helps you out > I have an unknown vintage Mini. From all indications, it appears to be > mid-80's, with a 1275 engine. It has a mechanical fan. [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > Alon You don't know the vintage? Sounds like a lovely rust bucket. It's rusty enough... and lovely enough for me to drive. > You don't know the vintage? Sounds like a lovely rust bucket. > It's rusty enough... and lovely enough for me to drive. > >>You don't know the vintage? Sounds like a lovely rust bucket. Better get a tetanus shot then. > I have an unknown vintage Mini. From all indications, it appears to be > mid-80's, with a 1275 engine. It has a mechanical fan. [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > Alon There are resistance values which equal temperature on the gauge. So if you place a test light into the circuit then this acts as a resistor. Someone must have these figures written down. >>Find the temperature sending unit it will be slender and in most cases >>have a single wire attached, it can be located on the side of the block, [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] >> >>Hope this helps you out >> I have an unknown vintage Mini. From all indications, it appears to be >> mid-80's, with a 1275 engine. It has a mechanical fan. [quoted text clipped - 49 lines] >>> >>> Hope this helps you out Yes the sending unit does act like a resistor it is actually a thermistor a temperature sensitive resistor. You can take a ohm reading when the engine is cold it will read some value, start the engine and let it run a bit, take a new reading and you will see a change. The value should decrease or increase depending on how the sending unit is matched to the gauge The send unit is like a voltage divider with a temperature sensitive resistor to ground being the brass case of the sending unit guage ------------v <- being the point of resistance in sending unit mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm--------->GND being the engine block This should give you a real rough idea of the internal workings though there are no working parts with temperature the the material becomes less conductive or more conductive Or...just get a better car, that works. > Or...just get a better car, that works. But surely not one of these unless of course you fancy a BBQ? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lyhInklrvgI Taffy >>Or...just get a better car, that works. > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > Taffy Barbecued taffy....tastes like sh.t, looks like sh.t. > There are resistance values which equal temperature on the gauge. So if > you place a test light into the circuit then this acts as a resistor. > > Someone must have these figures written down. Obviously not. > I have an unknown vintage Mini. From all indications, it appears to be > mid-80's, with a 1275 engine. It has a mechanical fan. [quoted text clipped - 43 lines] >> >>Hope this helps you out yes if the gauge is good it will move to about the center point Well, since the sending unit's resistance is changing, and the wire that runs from the sending unit to the dash has continuity, I'm going the say that I have a dead temperature gauge. Thanks for all your help. Alon Nevada rules! > yes if the gauge is good it will move to about the center point Do you have standard "Smiths" gauges? If you do then there will be a voltage stabiliser unit attached to the back of the printed circuits (if their of the straight ahead Clubman pod variety). Just fitting a new voltage stabiliser would get it working again in that instance. But if they don't have Smiths written on them and are of the later Nippon Seiki type then there is generally no voltage stabliser on the back as the gauges are completely electronic I believe. Anyway if you get no joy these people could help you out:- http://www.speedycables.com/ Taffy I'm guessing it's a Smiths gauge. I see the voltage stablizer, and it has a Smiths label. > Do you have standard "Smiths" gauges? If you do then there will be a > voltage stabiliser unit attached to the back of the printed circuits > (if their of the straight ahead Clubman pod variety). Just fitting a > new voltage stabiliser would get it working again in that instance. > I'm guessing it's a Smiths gauge. I see the voltage stablizer, and it > has a Smiths label. Then fit a new voltage stabilizer and your gauges should work fine again then. Taffy Well, since the sending unit's resistance is changing its gender, and the wire that runs from the sending unit to my a.s has continuity, I'm going the say that I am brain dead. Alonon Nevada rules for people who f.ck mules! > Well, since the sending unit's resistance is changing its gender, and the > wire [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > Nevada rules for people who f.ck mules! "I second that" the brain-dead part that is,,,,,,,,,, Fitzy >> Well, since the sending unit's resistance is changing its gender, and the >>wire [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > the brain-dead part that is,,,,,,,,,, > Fitzy I third the whole thing! > Well, since the sending unit's resistance is changing, and the wire > that runs from the sending unit to the dash has continuity, I'm going [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > > yes if the gauge is good it will move to about the center point The gauge should be putting out some resistance as well. That's always a good indication of wether the gauge is bad or not, especially if there is voltage on the wire to the sender. I don't have the Smiths gauges, I have the later Nippon Seiki, but the gauge resistance at the end of the sender wire (pulled off the sender and ign off) is about 60 ohms. I don't think it could be the voltage regulator, or you'd be having problems with your fuel gauge too. >>Well, since the sending unit's resistance is changing, and the wire >>that runs from the sending unit to the dash has continuity, I'm going [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > I don't think it could be the voltage regulator, or you'd be having > problems with your fuel gauge too. But then again, you could be wrong. Maxine |
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