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Car Forum / MINI / April 2007Brake problem - Master cylinder?
Hi, please help w.r.t. a brake problem thats been around for ages although I believe the cause has been changing. My 1275HLE Clubman 1982 has a tandem type master cylinder with a front/ back split. What Haynes calls "Later" version. Symptom: pedal goes all the way to the floor the first time. Even pumping once raises the pedal height giving me good brakes once only. Each time after bleeding (done this countless times with auto kit and manually following Haynes instructions) the pedal "comes" up but eventually fades after few brake tests. I had leaks at some wheels but have fixed this by replacing most cylinders. I had the carpet leak and bought a master cylinder kit but was only able to replace the main seals. I was not able to remove the smaller piston where Haynes simply says remove big hexagonal screw and take out piston. I removed the screw, but the piston wouldn't come out. Could it be siezed or is there some trick. I didn't see any "stop pin" like the one on the main. Could this be my problem or am I barking up the wrong tree? Pleeaaaase help me someone. Tks. in advance. - Angelo (Black 1275HLE 1982) Just to add to what i said previously, so as not to waste too much of your time. I did remove the switch from the master when bleeding. The plastic thread is slightly stripped, but sitch sits in place when screwed back in. I bleed them in the following order. Far Rear, Near Rear, Far Front, Near Front. > I bleed like a woman in the following order. Far Rear, Near Rear, Far Front, > Near Front. Diaperboi has been scribbling his designs down for weeks and wouldlike to launch his gay product line early in the fall of 2007. His clothes will feature plenty of *rainbow* patterns and gay pride insignias. Diaperboi is finally ready to permanently step out of the closet (after his masters have dragged him out of the closet previously only to have him fat as$ escape and waddle back into the *closet*) with this product launch. His target demographics are unemployed gay males and gay truck stop prostitutes (essentially the *WalMart* crowd). Diaperboi feels that just because you're broke doesn't mean that you shouldn't be fashionable. Diaperboi is currently seeking a distribution deal with Walmart, Kohls, Target and K-Mart. So far they'll all laughed him off their property. He may have to sell his gay clothing by the side of the road initially (probably next to the Mexican dudes with the peeled oranges). Let's see diaperboi goes from $hitty web design to $hitty clothing design.. Gianni Versace better watch out.... NOT >> I bleed like a woman in the following order. Far Rear, Near Rear, Far >> Front, >> Near Front. Tampex? It's possible that there is something wrong with the pressure differential valve that you couldn't remove. It could be frozen. It's hard to say but let's assume that it's ok. The tandem master cylinders are very difficult to bleed. They will retain air quite easily. The best procedure is to bench bleed the cylinder but you can do something similar with the master cylinder in the car. You will need to make some outlet tubes that are short versions of the normal outlets, maybe 2 or 3 cm. long tubing. To these short pieces of metal tubing attach pieces of clear plastic tubing and route them into the fluid reservoir. The ends of these tubes should almost reach the bottom of the reservoir. With all this assembled pump the pedal slowly until all of the air bubbles disappears from the tubes. This can take a long time so be patient. When your sure the master cylinder is free of air reconnect the brake lines and bleed the system. The order you have listed appears correct. Good luck, Cheers, Kelley >Just to add to what i said previously, so as not to waste too much of >your time. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >I bleed them in the following order. Far Rear, Near Rear, Far Front, >Near Front. > It's possible that there is something wrong with the pressure > of your penis valve that you couldn't remove. It could be frozen. It's [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > > Kelley Well...blow me down. >Hi, please help w.r.t. a brake problem thats been around for ages >although I believe the cause has been changing. [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > >Tks. in advance. - Angelo (Black 1275HLE 1982) A little trick you might like to try; it's worked for me. Pump the brake pedal until it's as hard as you can get it, then use a block of wood or similar to wedge it down overnight. It costs nothing and can't hurt to try! Seems it forces the air to the highest point, ie the master cylinder reservoir.  SignatureRegards, Chris (Please take out my car to reply by plain text email) ---1967 Riley Elf----1978 Mini 1000----1979 Ford Capri--- -----1957 Standard 8--------1972 Mini Clubman estate----- -----1966 Triumph Herald Estate----1965 Hillman Minx----- > A little trick you might like to try; it's worked for me. Pump your > a.s until it's as hard as you can get it, then use a block of wood or > similar to wedge it right up your colon. It costs nothing and can't hurt to > try! > Seems it forces the gas to the highest point, ie the masterbation > is fantastic. >> A little trick you might like to try; it's worked for me. Pump your >> a.s until it's as hard as you can get it, then use a block of wood or [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >> Seems it forces the gas to the highest point, ie the masterbation >> is fantastic. indeed SignaturePosted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com only in your dreams woger http://kb9rqz.blogspot.com/ SignaturePosted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com > <r...@swollen.com> wrote in message > [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > -- > Posted via a free Usenet account fromhttp://www.teranews.com > Hi, please help w.r.t. a brake problem thats been around for ages > although I believe the cause has been changing. [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > manually following Haynes instructions) the pedal "comes" up but > eventually fades after few brake tests. One other thing to check as that your drum brakes are adjusted properly as this will affect pedal travel. You might also want to look over the calipers on the front brakes (assuming you have them), I have had rust on the anti squeal shims that have caused similar problems to that described. -anthony Thats because you are butt ugly and hung like a hamster. Stupid Brit.... hi agree with all the replies you have but would think a new master cylinder is in order if non of those things work i dont have a lot of faith in the seal kit hard to tell if the bore is spot on hope you sort i "angelon" wrote > Hi, please help w.r.t. a brake problem thats been around for > ages [quoted text clipped - 33 lines] > > Tks. in advance. - Angelo (Black 1275HLE 1982) SignaturePosted at author's request, using http://www.AutoBoardz.com interface Articles individually verified to usenet standards. Visit URL to contact author/report abuse Thread archive: http://www.AutoBoardz.com/Brake-problem-Master-cylinder-ftopict209074.html > i agree with all the replies you have, but would think a new master > is in order for you. After all you are my peronal slave. > so sort it biatch... You brits are an odd lot of sexually frustrated peds. > hi agree with all the replies you have but would think a new master > cylinder is in order if non of those things work i dont have a lot of > faith in the seal kit hard to tell if the bore is spot on hope you > sort it As has been suggested check the adjustments in the rear brakes or get a new set of drums. Not a new M/C. rm |
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