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Car Forum / MINI / September 2003Engine rebuild
I've recently removed the engine from my 1982 metro (or more precisely, removed the metro from around my engine). Could anybody tell me roughly how much it would cost to rebuild assuming that: - The major components, crank, pistons etc are all in good condition and no machining is needed. - I do all the work myself - I have most of the tools I think I will need. ie. valve spring compressors etc So basically it would just be the cost of new gaskets, seals etc. and any other "must replace" bits. Talking of which, what other bits should be replaced as a matter of course? Piston rings? Cam followers? Anything else? Is it even worth doing this kind of rebuild or is it better to spend the extra cash and put new oversize pistons and so on in. or should I just leave it alone until something goes wrong with it? Will I see any increase in performance or fuel economy? Cheers Dave if you are going to rebuild you would be better off changing the head to unleaded while you were at it Hi Dave: > I've recently removed the engine from my 1982 metro (or more precisely, > removed the metro from around my engine). > > Could anybody tell me roughly how much it would cost to rebuild assuming > that: A full re-manuacture will cost in the thousands, a 'recondition' will cost upwards of the 500 mark. There is a vast difference between the two extreams, and you must ask yourself What do you want out of the engine and What is your budget? The costs for doing either a 998 or 1275 are similar - obviuosly you will get more out of a 1275 engine than a 998... > - The major components, crank, pistons etc are all in good condition and no > machining is needed. So why would you be taking it apart then? - To be honest you wont be able to a.ses the condition until its stripped down, and a 21 year old engine will be worn. You will be lucky if the crank journals wounldnt need a clean up New rings in a worn bore is a bit sus - Honing the bore is required and this can increase the piston to bore clearance, leading to a smokey engine Then what state are the bearing tunnels in - do the need a hone or line boring? Oil pump, camshaft will be worn.... > - I do all the work myself > - I have most of the tools I think I will need. ie. valve spring compressors > etc External / Internal / Depth micrometers, bore gauges, thread clearing taps, needle files, feeler blades, torque wrenches, flywheel puller, breaker bars, scrapers, cam timing protractor, etc > So basically it would just be the cost of new gaskets, seals etc. and any > other "must replace" bits. Talking of which, what other bits should be > replaced as a matter of course? Piston rings? Cam followers? Anything else? Again, need to know what the intended use of the engine is, whats worn already, and to what extent your rebuilding... > Is it even worth doing this kind of rebuild or is it better to spend the > extra cash and put new oversize pistons and so on in. or should I just leave > it alone until something goes wrong with it? Well considering you could buy lots of used 1275 mg metro engines (that you can replace when they go bang) for the cost of building one excellent modified road engine.. > Will I see any increase in performance or fuel economy? If its done right, then yes performance should be increased - for how long depends on how well the build was done. Is it worth doing? You havent mentioned the cylinder head, but this is where the power would be produced. a good modified unleaded 'road' head would certainly be beneficial. - Avoid anything that has 'race' in its name as it won't last road mileages (race engines are frequently stripped and rebuilt) Consider rebuilding the carburettor too... ..and the gear box... As i stated above you need to ask youself, what your budget is and what you want out of the engine. These kind of projects are rarely cheap if done correctly, but conversly can turn out expensive if its been sloppily put together on the cheap with any old mish-mash of parts. TTFN, Dave |
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