if you dont have a joint spliter then get one....

It's NEVER as simple as Mister Haynes says it is.  Reassembly is the reverse
of disassembly, my arse.  I wish they'd give you torque specs for everything
and all that malarkey - I would be glad of paying a few extra quid for that
luxury.  The old addage of "snap the bolt then back it off quarter of a
turn" wears a bit thin. Speshly on rear subframes.

Scuse my cynicism.  You know it's not that bad, speshly if you're just
replacing the outer CV.  Beg/borrow/steal, nay buy! a torque wrench (50 to
250 foot/pounds is a good range, and make sure it's got Newton/Meters on it
n all for fixing the occasional Eurobox) though cus you're gonna need to
torque the wheel bearing up to about 150 foot-pounds I believe.  Just
standing on the spanner (like what most people do with wheel nuts) won't cut
it.

Um, that's it I think.

The two main things are:
Take your time. If you're unsure, don't rush it.
Use jack stands - don't do it on the jack or it'll fall on yer leg and
you'll be shouting a lot when that happens.

Chris

Make sure you slacken the hub nut before you jack up the car. Get someone to
stand on the brakes and use a bl*#dy great bar to undo the nut. After
supporting the car on stands, split the top ball joint and track rod end.
Undo the hub nut and remove the taper washer. Lean the swivel hub outwards
at the same time as pushing the drive shaft inwards. They will disengage
from each other. Don't let the brake hose pull, so support the swivel to
stop this happening. Then split the gaiter of the outer joint and, holding
the shaft inwards, thwack (technical term) the CV outwards. It usually just
pops off. Then, in best Haynes tradition, reverse the process making sure
you torque the hub nut correctly using the flat washer first then install
the taper washer and re-torqueing. This process is vital, do not be tempted
to miss it out.

There.... did I make it sound as easy as the Haynes book??!!