 |
 | Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us |
 | Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network |
Car Forum / MINI / November 2003temperatures
Hi everybody. I own a 1976 innocenti mini cooper 1.3 export The car always seemd to run hot (95) so flushed the radiator, changed head gasket, ceked that the temperature reading was correct with an external thermometer, no leaks, just the heating system shut off because i need a new heater matrix. The water pump is fine as is the fan and its orientation. I'm running a 30% anti-freeze mix but it still tends to warm above 90, the thermostat is 82 C and even drilled a few 3 mm diametrr holes to get the flow rate up a bit. When i flushed the engine i removed the back bolt and liquid flowed out regularly, even had a poke with some metal wire but the passages seemed clear. Compression ratio is standard as all the rest of the engine Any body know why it still runs hot. Please help!!!! P.s i'm thinking of getting a minispares special 2core radiator but i still feel it shouldn't be necessarry The better rad thing is prob the way yo go, PS although you paper work says its a 76 the last innocenti mini was made in early 1975! Steve. > Hi everybody. > [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > P.s i'm thinking of getting a minispares special 2core radiator but i > still feel it shouldn't be necessarry MiniChicago wrote:11/1/03 4:15 PM I found that a new standard radiator and the tropical fan did the trick for me. I will probably be quite cool in the winter though. > The better rad thing is prob the way yo go, PS although you paper work says > its a 76 the last innocenti mini was made in early 1975! [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] >> P.s i'm thinking of getting a minispares special 2core radiator but i >> still feel it shouldn't be necessarry > Hi everybody. > [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > P.s i'm thinking of getting a minispares special 2core radiator but i > still feel it shouldn't be necessarry The sender unit may not be reading correctly. Why don't you try placing a thermometer in the radiator to verify the temperature gauge for starters. > > Hi everybody. > > [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > The sender unit may not be reading correctly. Why don't you try placing > a thermometer in the radiator to verify the temperature gauge for starters. I did check it....., it defenetly runs hot even in free traffic on motorwats. how much would getting the heater system to work and turning it on help? He already mentioned he has confirmed the temp by measurement. Remove the radiator from the car and reverse flush it. Probably will fix your problem. If it looks very old then a repacement may be necessary. Then check Air flow isn't restricted in any way (DIY weather shields etc) Thermostat actually is working Water pump is good Ignition timing and mixture are correct There are no air locks if air lock exists the heater is usually cold. Finaly check for blockage in the waterways, cylinder head removal will be necessary. > > Hi everybody. > > [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > The sender unit may not be reading correctly. Why don't you try placing > a thermometer in the radiator to verify the temperature gauge for starters. > He already mentioned he has confirmed the temp by measurement. > [quoted text clipped - 36 lines] > > a thermometer in the radiator to verify the temperature gauge for > starters. Thanks everybody. One thing that might have not been clear though is that at the moment the heater matrix is not acive as the heater valve on the cylinder head is blocked closed. This means that that part of the system is completely empty of water, i checked. Which is also why i can only fit 2.7 liters of fluid in the system instead of the haynes 3.5 liters. How much of an effect would filling the whole system up have on this problem? > One thing that might have not been clear though is that at the moment > the heater matrix is not acive as the heater valve on the cylinder > head is blocked closed. This means that that part of the system is > completely empty of water, i checked. I do not see how it can be completely empty of water as the return pipe is T'd into the radiator bottom hose. Unless you have disconnected that hose the heater is still part of the cooling system and although no water will be flowing through it it will be getting pressurised... or would be if you didn't have a leak. I do not think this alone will cause your system to run hotter than normal (but I would welcome other people's opinions on that) but it will certainly boil easier if the temp ever gets closer to 100C. You are not alone I have the same issue, the temp steadily rises and sits just below 100C, radiator and heater flushd clean, all new hoses, the only thing left is that I have a slight weep on the heater tap. This is on a 998 + Stage 1. I'm contemplating fitting a second heater rad behind the grille as an auxillary, being in direct air flow should help. Shaun. It is OK until about 105-110 where it starts to boil. It is only the boiling or pressure blowing the cap off that is a problem allowing the engine to heat to a temp where it can cook - a lot hotter than 105degC There was a thread dedicated to this about last January/February when I fitted a capillary gauge and scared myself by fining out what temp the engine actually runs at. I fitted a 2 core rad and did everything to find out that it was normal. The Muffin Man > > One thing that might have not been clear though is that at the moment > > the heater matrix is not acive as the heater valve on the cylinder [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > > Shaun. I don't have any hard proof but it seems to me that the A-series engine tends to overheat more with age than most other engines. It's probably due to fairly narrow water passages in the block and head. When scale builds up on the interior surfaces it tends to block these passages as well as act as an insulator. Short of stripping the whole thing and having it boiled out it was at one time common to flush the system with an acid cleaner. Muratic acid was common and I've used white vinegar for cleaning heater cores. Marine suppliers sell descaling products that are to be used to clean boat cooling systems before laying up for the winter. This might be worth looking into for those with weak 25 or 30 year-old cooling systems. Keep in mind that if the radiator or heater core has become thin due to corrosion over the years the scale may be the only thing holding it together. Cheers, Kelley >Hi everybody. > [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] >P.s i'm thinking of getting a minispares special 2core radiator but i >still feel it shouldn't be necessarry |
Reply to this Message |
 Sign In
 Join
 My Latest Posts My Monitored Threads My Blog My Photo Gallery My Profile My Homepage Start New Thread Enable EMail Alerts Rate this Thread
|
©2008 Advenet LLC Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.