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Car Forum / MINI / July 2003

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Auxillary Temp Sensor options

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Boink - 05 Jul 2003 17:54 GMT
3 QUESTIONS about adding a better coolant sensor/gauge: <1293cc engine>

I've got an original electric, temperature sender in the head (of the car)
;-) . It currently (no pun intended) sends its resistance values to a cheapy
temperature gauge in the center combo gauge (fuel, alternator light,
etc.)... and it sucks (with a very small needle throw). So, I thought I'd
switch to a mechanical gauge/sender (bulb, capillary tube, etc.)... but the
unit I have will require some pesky adaptors to use (namely, a 3/8-1/2 <I
think>, a coupling, and then the sender)... all this because the sender will
not properly seat in the head. Bottom line is that the sender would end up
on about a 1.5" stem off the head (over the alternator just a bit).

QUESTION #1: will this seriously compromise my sensing water temperature
because of a potential lack of circulation to the sender? The original
sender has its tip completely in the water flow of the head. Obviously,
water will still find its way to the sender.

Next, and related, if the answer to Question #1 is that "it won't matter
that much," then, could I install a "T" at this same coupling point (instead
of a simple coupling) and hook up both the old electrical sender and the new
mechanical one? This would be just as easy.

QUESTION #2: is this nuts? Is it a waste of time? Again, will I get enough
water flow out to this location?

OK, and finally... if the answer to Question #1 (and #2) is "no, this is a
poor solution and you should just leave the electrical one in the head",
where could I best add this mechanical one? I don't know if a new thermostat
housing will receive this sender (with its approx. 1.5" bulb).

QUESTION #3: what hose (or line) could be the most easily tapped in order to
put in a "T" with a mechanical sensor?

- MARK
Boink - 05 Jul 2003 21:40 GMT
OK, tried the "T" experiment (essentially a blind-ended sensor post)... and
there is not adequate circulation. The temps went up but began to drop again
once I really got the Min moving down the road at high speed... then it rose
again when sitting. This confirmed my suspicion that the sender MUST be
right in the flow of coolant. Next experiment...    ;-)

"Boink" <
> 3 QUESTIONS about adding a better coolant sensor/gauge: <1293cc engine>
>
[quoted text clipped - 30 lines]
>
> - MARK
xsplam - 06 Jul 2003 01:50 GMT
> OK, tried the "T" experiment (essentially a blind-ended sensor
> post)... and there is not adequate circulation. The temps went up but
> began to drop again once I really got the Min moving down the road at
> high speed... then it rose again when sitting. This confirmed my
> suspicion that the sender MUST be right in the flow of coolant. Next
> experiment...    ;-)

I would expect that the sensor does need to be in the flow of the coolant,
certainly the temp guage on my mini tends to behave as you just described
your experiment.

Driving at 50kph often means the engine is warmer then at 100kph, I guess
this is do to the amount of air passing through the rad, as at low speeds I
wouldn't imagine the fan being terribly efficient - this is backed up by
all those people talking about overheating in traffic. :)

s
Boink - 06 Jul 2003 03:18 GMT
> > OK, tried the "T" experiment (essentially a blind-ended sensor
> > post)... and there is not adequate circulation. The temps went up but
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> certainly the temp guage on my mini tends to behave as you just described
> your experiment.

Based on my experiment, the sender DOES need to be in the flow of things (or
very much near the main coolant, as opposed to an off-shoot).

> Driving at 50kph often means the engine is warmer then at 100kph, I guess
> this is do to the amount of air passing through the rad, as at low speeds I
> wouldn't imagine the fan being terribly efficient - this is backed up by
> all those people talking about overheating in traffic. :)

It was striking though... I mean the temp went WAY down (and normally with
equivalent driving, I'd have seen it go up). I figured that the assembly I
had put together (which I photographed and could post - it's not big) was
being cooled by the wind.
The Muffin Man - 06 Jul 2003 08:39 GMT
I have a mech gauge in the head with the small spacer and the electrical
gauge on the clocks.  You can tell that it works properly because the
thermostat opens at the spot on correct temperature.

The Muffin Man

> > > OK, tried the "T" experiment (essentially a blind-ended sensor
> > > post)... and there is not adequate circulation. The temps went up but
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
> had put together (which I photographed and could post - it's not big) was
> being cooled by the wind.
Boink - 06 Jul 2003 17:07 GMT
Yes, I was wondering if when the thermostat opened enough water diverted
from my little sensor experiment that it dropped that much in temp.

"The Muffin Man" <
> I have a mech gauge in the head with the small spacer and the electrical
> gauge on the clocks.  You can tell that it works properly because the
[quoted text clipped - 32 lines]
> > had put together (which I photographed and could post - it's not big) was
> > being cooled by the wind.
Graham - 07 Jul 2003 04:11 GMT
> OK, tried the "T" experiment (essentially a blind-ended sensor
> post)... and there is not adequate circulation. The temps went up
> but began to drop again once I really got the Min moving down the
> road at high speed... then it rose again when sitting. This
> confirmed my suspicion that the sender MUST be right in the flow of
> coolant. Next experiment...    ;-)

Science for the masses!   8-)
Boink - 07 Jul 2003 04:34 GMT
> > OK, tried the "T" experiment (essentially a blind-ended sensor
> > post)... and there is not adequate circulation. The temps went up
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>
> Science for the masses!   8-)

:-)   Well, the next test will be more conventional. I think I'll put a big
"T" in the upper radiator line.
 
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