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Car Forum / MINI / January 2004Specialised mini-dealer, or regular garage?
I have decided I will want to spend some cash refurbishing my mini - it doesn't look good at the moment, and there seems to be a fair amount of rust in places it shouldn't be. I am considering the following: - Rust removal - Rust proofing - New gearbox (if needed - it needs an overhaul, certainly) - Full engine tune + unleaded valve seats fitting - Full respray. I have budgeted about ?1000 on all this work. The main question is: Is it recommended to try and search out someone who specialises in minis, or is it just as well to go to my local bodyshop to get the bodywork done, and to my local garage to get the engine / gearbox work done? My mini is a 1988 Austin Mini City 998cc automatic, and I am based in Liverpool. Haje  SignatureVisit the Mini Repository - the best collection of mini links on the interweb! http://www.minirepository.com hiya I dont want to upset you but ?1000 wont do all those jobs to a good standard, thats why mini owners learn to do these types of jobs for themselves. If you do go to a garage use a mini specialist but beware just coz they call themselves a specialist doesnt mean that they are any good. Ask around and go somwhere that has recomendations. fragged > I have decided I will want to spend some cash refurbishing my mini - it > doesn't look good at the moment, and there seems to be a fair amount of rust [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > > http://www.minirepository.com Hmm, that is a bit of a bummer, really. The problem is that I don't actually have access to a garage or garage facilities, and I severely doubt if my neighbours will appreciate it if I do it in the street in front of my house. Besides - are those jobs actually diy jobs? As far as I am aware, gearbox work requires a garage lift to get the car lifted up? As for the rust work - I am sure that there is a fair bit I can do myself with a wirebrush or whatever, but I assume there is also quite some welding work that needs doing, as some of the insides of the wheel arches are rusted through. I guess if what you say is accurate, and ?1000 isn't enough to get my car in good form, I'm afraid I shall have to consider either scrapping it completely (which would be a shame, really, considering the fact that the engine is ok-ish) or only doing the work partially (in which case I'm just putting off the inevitable; having to let it go later, when the rust returns in full force) h > hiya > I dont want to upset you but ?1000 wont do all those jobs to a good > standard, thats why mini owners learn to do these types of jobs for > themselves. If you do go to a garage use a mini specialist but beware just > coz they call themselves a specialist doesnt mean that they are any good. > Ask around and go somwhere that has recomendations. > I have decided I will want to spend some cash refurbishing my mini - it > doesn't look good at the moment, and there seems to be a fair amount of rust [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > I have budgeted about ?1000 on all this work. This sounds like a full strip-out-to-bare-shell job. Automatics are very difficult to repair. Most mechanics won't touch them, even Mini specialists. In any case, any gearbox work on a mini means taking out the engine. At that stage however, it usually easier to simply replace the whole lump. I'm also not too sure that it is worthwhile spending ?1000 on a quite mundane 88 Mayfair automatic, which even in tip-top condition, might be only worth that sum or maybe less. That amount of money will probably get you another rust-free mini in better condition. A proper respray costs at least ?500. Any bodywork before that will make that cost go much higher. The problem with bodywork is the labour cost. > I'm also not too sure that it is worthwhile spending ?1000 on a quite > mundane 88 Mayfair automatic, which even in tip-top condition, might be only > worth that sum or maybe less. That amount of money will probably get you > another rust-free mini in better condition. I guess that is another option. A rust-free mini? I thought that didn't even exist! ;) Thanks for your help! h (my newsserver seems to be back up again) > Automatics are very difficult to repair. Automatics have an unwarranted reputation as difficult to repair, as a result: > Most mechanics won't touch them, even Mini specialists. Yet they're really not that hard to work on. > In any case, any gearbox work on a mini means taking out the engine. At that stage > however, it usually easier to simply replace the whole lump. You can replace all clutches and bands, the oil pump and the entire geartrain in an auto without seperating the motor from the box. You can remove the valve chest without removing the motor and box from the car. ?1000 is a bit short... as a rough guide: > - Rust removal Well - depends on how bad the rust is, but if your looking at a new front end for example, then although the parts are reasonable: the major cost is in the labour: A front end could easily be a few hundred quid + paint.. > - Rust proofing Waxoyling, et al: I would guess-timate to be around the ?75 mark all in > - New gearbox (if needed - it needs an overhaul, certainly) On an Auto? - ouch. - Not many like the auto boxes and as stated elsewhere, it may be a more viable option to source a later unleaded manual engine (go for a 1275 perhaps...) A reasonably good rebuild on a manual box is circa ?350 + labour to fit ,,,, > - Full engine tune + unleaded valve seats fitting A rebuilt head with unleaded inserts is circa ?150, a tune: well a rolling road tune would be ?80-?100ish > - Full respray. ?500 is cheap If your friendly with the local mini-club, I'm sure that there may be members who could help you do it and save a few quid... TTFN, Dave TTFN, Dave Wow this was a good guide! Thanks dave! > > - Rust removal > Well - depends on how bad the rust is, but if your looking at a new front > end for example, then although the parts are reasonable: the major cost is > in the labour: A front end could easily be a few hundred quid + paint.. It isn't at all that bad, actually, but because of the location of some of the rust spots, I am a bit worried about it getting through the MOT in april - not to mention the MOT after that. > > - New gearbox (if needed - it needs an overhaul, certainly) > On an Auto? - ouch. - Not many like the auto boxes and as stated elsewhere, > it may be a more viable option to source a later unleaded manual engine (go > for a 1275 perhaps...) I was told that fitting a manual transmission engine in my car would also require changing the subframe. Upon hearing that, I kinda shrugged off the idea. It seems like such a shame to get rid of a perfect-running engine, only because the transmission seems a bit wonky. Haje Jan SignatureVisit the Mini Repository - the best collection of mini links on the interweb! http://www.minirepository.com > Wow this was a good guide! Thanks dave! > [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > the rust spots, I am a bit worried about it getting through the MOT in > april - not to mention the MOT after that. Sills, floors and rear subframes are usual MOT gotchas - Prep for a full respray should include the removal of surface rust, but the only way to get rid of 'rot' and rust holes is to chop the metal out and replace with new. This is the big cost. > > > - New gearbox (if needed - it needs an overhaul, certainly) > > On an Auto? - ouch. - Not many like the auto boxes and as stated [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > idea. It seems like such a shame to get rid of a perfect-running engine, > only because the transmission seems a bit wonky. Yes the auto frame is wider at the bottom so that the wider auto box can be fitted. - Ideally you would want a manual front frame to suit the manual engine. All the mechanicals (hubs, etc) can be transfered from the auto frame to the manual one. Brakes would need bleeding through again, but to be honest: once the engine is out of the way, its not much more work to drop the frame out. (8 bolts and it'll be free!) As an alternative - I have heard of spacers being used between engine mounting and subframe: So that a manual engine can be fitted to a auto frame. You will also need a pedal assembly for a manual (clutch pedal) and a clutch master cylinder too... If you do go down this route, then it would be worth phoning a few specialists to get a price, after you've recovered from the shock; have a word with the local mini club and I'm sure there will be a couple of volunteers willing to help for beer vouchers / food / whatever. For example: You could source a 1275 MG Metro MOT failure for around ?100 - This engine could be used; find a s/hand front frame (scrap yard / breakers?) for under ?50. Add say ?100-150 for sundries (pedal box, oil + filters, etc, etc) Then its down to (your) time in cleaning it all up. - Should be achievable in a long weekend.... TTFN, Dave http://www.icklemini.co.uk > I was told that fitting a manual transmission engine in my car would also > require changing the subframe. Upon hearing that, I kinda shrugged off the > idea. It seems like such a shame to get rid of a perfect-running engine, > only because the transmission seems a bit wonky. Correct. The manual engine and subframe are both different to the auto items. If your only major problem is the auto, fix it. > Correct. The manual engine and subframe are both different to the auto > items. If your only major problem is the auto, fix it. There were a few other small things with the car, but nothing serious. I was offered a near-complete engine from a Metro at a decent price as well. The only problem is that the garages I spoke to (3 of them) quoted me prices of between 600 and 800 quid for the job - without guaranteeing anything. Of course, I deeply resent the fact that I dont know enough about engines (or have the facilities) to be able to try and fix it myself. Anyway, I will be joining the Wirral Minis rally on sunday - with some luck I'll find someone who can help me find a better quote for replacing the engine. Failing that, I think I will have to keep this one for parts, and start looking around for a different car altogether. A mini, of course, but still. Haje SignatureVisit the Mini Repository - the best collection of mini links on the interweb! http://www.minirepository.com Sorry Graham I have not got the original message so I will reply to yours instead! I have a friend in the USA that runs the Austin America webpage http://www.austinamericausa.com and he bought an Austin America with an auto (the America uses the same auto as the mini) and he was very worried about rebuilding it, I had just done the foward clutch in my car (Morris 1100 auto) and I told him that there was nothing to be frightened of so he went ahead and did it. Here is his story about rebuilding an auto http://austin_america.tripod.com/austinamerica/id69.html It would be the best online view of the AP Automatic that I have seen. Michael > > I was told that fitting a manual transmission engine in my car would also > > require changing the subframe. Upon hearing that, I kinda shrugged off the [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > Correct. The manual engine and subframe are both different to the auto > items. If your only major problem is the auto, fix it. Wow, this is quite uplifting, actually. I guess I just have to find a fellow mini-fan with some balls, tools and skills, and I might give it a go! Thanks for that link! Haje > Sorry Graham I have not got the original message so I will reply to yours > instead! [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > > Correct. The manual engine and subframe are both different to the auto > > items. If your only major problem is the auto, fix it. I picked up a spare auto box from a wrecker for $30 aus and I pulled it apart to learn how to do it! I was surprised how simple the box was after hearing all the stories about mechanics that refused to touch them. The forward clutch was nearly new in the box from the wrecker so into my car it went! I lifted out the engine and sat it on a stand, undid the end cover and pulled out the forward clutch, changed the plates over and threw it back together. I did not use any of the factory tools that the books say you need, it is a bit fiddly getting the pipes to line up but they went back together after a couple of minutes of fiddling. It was Grahams posts on this newsgroup about how easy they are to fix that got me off my arse to pull my clutch apart! If you were to send an email to Todd from the http://www.austinamericausa.com website I am sure that he would give you some more hints and maybe some scans from the AP workshop manual. Michael. > Wow, this is quite uplifting, actually. I guess I just have to find a fellow > mini-fan with some balls, tools and skills, and I might give it a go! > > Thanks for that link! > > Haje |
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