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Car Forum / MINI / January 2004Seperating Gearbox & engine
Hi all. I have aquired a recon 1100 for my 78 clubie. But it is currently attached to a 71 Gearbox ie wand change & early unis. How much work is it to split them and attach to a spare 78 box that I have? Will I need any MINI specific tools? Are the reqired gasgets cheap? All the best Paul from OZ > Hi all. > I have aquired a recon 1100 for my 78 clubie. But it is currently [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > All the best > Paul from OZ You will need to set up the end float on the idler gear using the new transfer case gasket. If you use the transfer case from the 78 box, the 1st motion shaft nose bearing will still match. This saves you having to get the outer race out of the casing which can be a pain. Not sure I explained that too well! Basically keep the gearbox and transfer casing as a matched set. The only special tool you will need that I can think of is a flywheel puller.  SignatureRgds Steve steve@dsnclassics.co.uk www.dsnclassics.co.uk > The only special tool you will need that I can think of is a flywheel > puller. Is that like a big hammer through the starter motor hole :) rm Not if you've ever seen the leftover mess from a shattered flywheel while the engine was running at 4000rpm.. I would suggest a trip to halfords to get the puller... Karl. > > The only special tool you will need that I can think of is a flywheel > > puller. > > Is that like a big hammer through the starter motor hole :) > > rm A long trip from Oz! > Not if you've ever seen the leftover mess from a shattered flywheel while > the engine was running at 4000rpm.. [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > > > rm > > Not if you've ever seen the leftover mess from a shattered flywheel while > > the engine was running at 4000rpm.. And thought about it's relative position to the male driver whilst the flywheel is spinning at 4000rpm ;) The Muffin Man > > > Not if you've ever seen the leftover mess from a shattered flywheel > while [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > The Muffin Man Awwww.... tears now streaming and toes curling! SignatureRgds Steve steve@dsnclassics.co.uk www.dsnclassics.co.uk > You will need to set up the end float on the idler gear using the new > transfer case gasket. [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > The only special tool you will need that I can think of is a flywheel > puller. I have a complete 998 & G/B out of 78 though eng is NG & a complete 1100 & G/B engine is Very very Good but the GB wont suit my car. I am surprised that I would need to dismantel the actual G/B???? > > You will need to set up the end float on the idler gear using the new > > transfer case gasket. [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > The only special tool you will need that I can think of is a flywheel > > puller. > I have a complete 998 & G/B out of 78 though eng is NG & a complete > 1100 & G/B engine is Very very Good but the GB wont suit my car. I am > surprised that I would need to dismantel the actual G/B???? You don't dismantle the gearbox, but you do remove the transfer case which fits over the end of both gearbox and motor in order to remove the motor from the top of the box. To get the transfer case off, you have to remove the flywheel and clutch, for which you need a flywheel puller. Where are you in Australia? >> You will need to set up the end float on the idler gear using the new >> transfer case gasket. [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > 1100 & G/B engine is Very very Good but the GB wont suit my car. I am > surprised that I would need to dismantel the actual G/B???? Why won't the gearbox suit your car? You must be misunderstanding the situation. The gearbox does not have to be disassembled, but the transfer case has to be removed else the block can not be taken off the gearbox. Ummm i see your point maybe just the local automitive store then... In Aus that is.. Karl. > Hi all. > I have aquired a recon 1100 for my 78 clubie. But it is currently [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > All the best > Paul from OZ > Hi all. > I have aquired a recon 1100 for my 78 clubie. But it is currently [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > All the best > Paul from OZ I'd be floored if you had '71 gearbox with wand change and early unis. Are you sure you're not mixing up magic wand with remote change, although I'd still be surprised if wasn't rod change in a '71 box. When you say early unis, are you saying that they're not pot joints? The gaskets you will need are cheap enough. scenic we had remote till 72 my 71 clubby has remote in it as standard makka > > Hi all. > > I have aquired a recon 1100 for my 78 clubie. But it is currently [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > early unis, are you saying that they're not pot joints? > The gaskets you will need are cheap enough. > I'd be floored if you had '71 gearbox with wand change and early unis. > Are you sure you're not mixing up magic wand with remote change, although > I'd still be surprised if wasn't rod change in a '71 box. When you say > early unis, are you saying that they're not pot joints? > The gaskets you will need are cheap enough. As Makka has said, the rod change appeared here somewhat later than in the UK. The 1971 Clubman convertible I used to look after had a Morris 1100 style remote change. It also had rubber cross joints, though they may not have belonged there. > > I'd be floored if you had '71 gearbox with wand change and early unis. > > Are you sure you're not mixing up magic wand with remote change, although [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > 1100 style remote change. It also had rubber cross joints, though they > may not have belonged there. The later magic wand used the 'remote' gearbox casing with a pressed steel cover to retain the gear lever. This style was used way into the 70's and even continued after the introduction of the rod change in the 998 cars. SignatureRgds Steve steve@dsnclassics.co.uk www.dsnclassics.co.uk >> > I'd be floored if you had '71 gearbox with wand change and early unis. >> > Are you sure you're not mixing up magic wand with remote change, [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] >The later magic wand used the 'remote' gearbox casing with a pressed steel >cover to retain the gear lever. that's exactly what I have on my '71 998 Van, including rubber cross joints ... >This style was used way into the 70's and >even continued after the introduction of the rod change in the 998 cars. FWIW, Theo van den Bogaard The only special tool you will have to buy todo this job is a flywheel puller. In the UK these cost around £15.00. I've lost count how many box swaps I've done but this job alone can range from quite easy to to incredibly difficult.Most of the time though fairly easy. Once the flywheel is off it's just a matter of undoing all of the bolts in the flywheel housing and the bolts holding the engine to the gearbox. With all the bolts out you must lift the engine stright off the box. This can be a little bit trick as it weights about 40+kgs plus the gaskets will be probably holding the whole thing together. The easiest way todo this is to lift the engine up off the ground with an engine lift or blocks and tackle about 2 inches. Then tap the box, with a rubber or wooden hammer, down words to break the seal in the gaskets. The box usually trys to leave the box on an angle and binds on two studs on the back of the engine. Manover the box so that no binding occurs, be carefull though as the box may fall and hit the deck. If you are changing boxes make sure the flywheel housing you have has the same bearing sizes for the box that it is going to fit against. The idler bearing size could be different so just beware. Hope this helps |
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