I have, now...

Cheers,
Si.

just a  ramble.
for many years I raced a mini marcos in Group K
suspension mods were fairly restricted, but we were allowed to play with
settings etc
some of the things that come to mind...

rule 1 Mini's are VERY sensitive to suspension mods.
lowering the front or rear independantly can affect the castor angle, and
will affect the steering, a small castor angle will make the car turn in
very sharply, but feel twitchy at high speed in straight lines, whereas a
high castor will make the car very stable in straight lines, but will feel
heavy when you try to turn in.

Mini's tend to increase negative camber under bump, whilst in small amounts
this is a good thing, If you lower the front a lot, without stiffening the
effective spring rate, you can get silly amounts of neg camber under bump...

its easy enough to replace dampers on mini's with a whole range of really
good adjustable units from several top suppliers. But it is too easy to set
the dampers a bit too hard in the belief that firm is good. with standard
(soft) donuts you can create a situation where the damper is not going to
allow the rubber to recover quickly enough. then you get a peculiar "jack
down" situation where the car is effectively running on the bump stops, the
car handles like a plank, and by the time you get back to the garage, make a
cup of tea, light a fag etc, everything looks normal again.....

Mini's can suffer from body and subframe misalignment, made worse by rubber
mounted subframes, bottom arms, and tie bar bushes. always check these, as
well as seized radius arm pins and top arm pins if you think the handling
isnt right, too many times have i seen people spend loads of money on
expensive  mods to find that they havnt cured simple problems that can be
sorted by 1/2 hour in the garage witha grease gun....

some simple rules of thumb I use for setting up road cars.
check all the rubber, replace if there is any doubt.
grease tthe radius arm pins monthly.
try to set the ride height at the front to give you driveshafts that are as
straight as possible... (you'll see that if the car is raised or lowered by
much the driveshafts will fall or rise from the diff)
spend a few quid and get the car on a laser alingnment jig, it will tell you
everything you want.
for race cars.
throw away all the rubber
weld up the rubber mounted subframes etc
use rose joints in the tie bars and bottom arms if your regs allow or fit
nylon nylatron (lubricated impregnated nylon, wonderful stuff) or whatever
hard compound your local supplier can get.
fit adjusters on everything to get the geometry straight. more on this
another day.
get the car on the alingnment jig asap...

enough waffling jim
see ya soon