Engine steady bushes and earth strap

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plusnet - 19 Jan 2004 22:43 GMT

I'm trying to replace the earth strap on the engine (1.3i spi) which runs
between the two ends of the upper engine steady. As I had to take the bolt
out I thought I would at the same time replace the bushes. My problem is
that having taken the bolt out, I cannot for the life of me get the front
bolt lined up with the hole to put it back. There is a smallish cylinder
about 4" long by about 2" diam bolted to the engine just bellow the steady
mount, I'm not sure what this is but it appears to be mounted with a gasket
so I haven't removed it. This is really in the way, so what is it, and what
is the gasket if any, I will need to replace it? Any help and any other
advice re replacing the steady bushes will be much appreciated.

Many thanks
Kevin

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The Muffin Man - 20 Jan 2004 00:24 GMT

Don't worry, it is just the crankcase breather. The worst you can do by
removing it is getting dirty or crossing the threads. If you want to thread
the bolt up you may want to try doing it up on the engine first and then the
bulkhead end. It is much easier to get it lined up when it slots right
through rather than trying to catch just one thread.

I hope this makes sense ;)

T'Muffin Man

> I'm trying to replace the earth strap on the engine (1.3i spi) which runs
> between the two ends of the upper engine steady. As I had to take the bolt
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> Many thanks
> Kevin

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Roger - 20 Jan 2004 11:46 GMT

plusnet wrote on 19/01/2004 22:43:

> I'm trying to replace the earth strap on the engine (1.3i spi) which runs
> between the two ends of the upper engine steady. As I had to take the bolt
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> is the gasket if any, I will need to replace it? Any help and any other
> advice re replacing the steady bushes will be much appreciated.

The cylinder is the crankcase breather oil separator. Take it off and
you will have more room to work on the front steady bolt. (But I seem to
remember that it was a bit tricky getting the back nut of the separator
back on.)

The "gasket" on my separator was nothing more than some sort of sealer.

One other thing I remember - the resting position of the engine with the
steady removed meant that I had to pull it forwards by the rocker cover
to get the bolt back in.

Signature

Roger

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Dan Baker - 21 Jan 2004 17:08 GMT

Kevin,
There is a knack to it! If you push the bolt in through the bushes so
that it's touching the side of the block, then grab the top of the
rocker cover (careful it's not hot if your engine has recently been
running) and gently pull the engine forwards, while holding the bolt
with the other hand. You should be able to "feel" the hole for the
bolt to go in. Try and tighten it by hand at first to make sure the
threads don't cross.
The job can be made easier by having an assistant to move the engine
while you try and get the bolt in!

HTH,
Dan

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jimboooo - 21 Jan 2004 17:48 GMT

hmmmmmmm
I always use a small jack under the sump to physically move the engine to
more or less the right place...

as an aside,
on all the engines i have ( for last few years) I have cut off and thrown
away the oil seperators, opened up ALL the crankcase vents, and run them
through heat resistant pipe to the rocker box, and then run a single large
heat resistant pipe to a collector box with an old motorcycle K &N air filer
on it.

logic is
aids crankcase venting.
keeps all the crud out of the inlet....
and if i ever see oil in the collector box, I know i've got a problem......

> > I'm trying to replace the earth strap on the engine (1.3i spi) which runs
> > between the two ends of the upper engine steady. As I had to take the bolt
[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
> HTH,
> Dan

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Graham - 23 Jan 2004 03:37 GMT

> on all the engines i have ( for last few years) I have cut off and thrown
> away the oil seperators, opened up ALL the crankcase vents, and run them
> through heat resistant pipe to the rocker box, and then run a single large
> heat resistant pipe to a collector box with an old motorcycle K &N air filer
> on it.

It's a good thing your emissions tests only check the exhaust pipe.
Crankcase ventilation removes something like 80% of all noxious
emissions; thats why it was the first anti pollution measure introduced
in most places.

> logic is
> aids crankcase venting.

Not really. The crankcase is no longer actively cleared by the induction
system, so the crankcase pressure will now be slightly above instead of
slightly below atmospheric pressure.

> keeps all the crud out of the inlet....

If there's that much crud then your oil seperators are not working
and/or there is something seriously wrong with the motor.

> and if i ever see oil in the collector box, I know i've got a problem......

If you see oil/crud in the inlet manifold.....

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