wheel alignment

Thread view:

Enable EMail Alerts

Start New Thread

Thread rating:

Dantiri - 15 Jul 2003 17:50 GMT

I recently fitted a set of 4 gb alloys and new tyres. I also had the wheels
re- aligned. BADLY! When I let go of the wheel the car tends to pull left
slightly. It got worse (obviously) when I put in negative camber arms. Also
the steering wheel tend to "shiver" at about 50 mph. I think the reason the
alignment wasn't done perfectly is that the right rebound buffer (that sort
of lower bumb stop) is missing so the right wheel drops down far lower than
the left when the car is jacked up. Any other clues? I adjusted the height
with the hilos (the left side was lower as here in Italy we drive "on the
wrong side of the road") so I raised it slightly but it still tends to turn
left.

Dantiri

Reply to this Message

fraggy - 15 Jul 2003 18:23 GMT

hiya
check that your right front brake isnt slightly siezed that will cause a
drag to the left.

fragged

> I recently fitted a set of 4 gb alloys and new tyres. I also had the wheels
> re- aligned. BADLY! When I let go of the wheel the car tends to pull left
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>
> Dantiri

Reply to this Message

Dave Yardy - 15 Jul 2003 21:41 GMT

> I recently fitted a set of 4 gb alloys and new tyres. I also had the wheels
> re- aligned. BADLY! When I let go of the wheel the car tends to pull left
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> wrong side of the road") so I raised it slightly but it still tends to turn
> left.

OK:

Sounds more like your castor angles are all to cock, rather than bad wheel
alignment.

Things to do:
(1) - Do not use hi-los to compensate for squashed rubber cones - it causes
a lot of odd quirks, if the car is older than 15 years then I'd put money on
the fact that the cones have squished down and your top armes will be very
close to the top bump stop on the front frame...

(2) - Check your tie-rods, if these are bent then your castor angle will be
mis-matched. each front wheel must have equal castor angles for the car to
drive without pulling.

(3) - If you have fitted negative camber bottom arms, again I would put
money on that your castor angles are all over the place. I also tend to fit
long track rod ends (more thread engagement for the track rod)

(4) - Check ALL the rubbers: Tie rod rubbers, bottom arm rubbers, subframe
mounting rubbers. - replace any that look 'dodgy' - in fact their cheap
enough to replace anyway!

(5) - Check your wheel balance.

(6) - Check your rear wheel geometery - tracking, camber and alignment with
the front wheels. - You can buy the rear adjustable camber/tracking
brackets. I've used the Minispares ones on my minicrosser without
problems...

(7) - Check the steering column bushes for any play.

hth,
Dave
http://www.icklemini.co.uk

Reply to this Message