I was told that the sill work and arches could top ?800!
I traded it in for a new classic..............
The work is very involved and worth doing properly, so when redoing the
sills, the old ones are removed completely exposing the inside of the inner
sill and inside of the door step and lip, once all the crap is ground off to
clean metal, only then can you fit the standard fitment sill, not a wide
sill, this is a cover sill for botch jobs, you need a narrow sill which is
the one you need just to fill the gap!
When welding on the sill, start by tacking it on with spot welds about
4inches apart. When the sill is attached well all the way around, start
filling in the gaps between each spot, then stop and allow the metal work to
cool each time, this prevents warping and the metal bending and hence
popping the spot welds off! You dont have to do this really, because a
replacement sill doesnt need welding all the way around, but I would never
do that, this is structural after all!
When welding on a sill at the bottom of the quarter panel, cover the paint
work with lots of exhaust paste, this will protect it from welding sparks
and flashes, it should stop the paint bubbling as well, not perfect but it
helps.
At the rear of the sill, make sure that sill is welded well to the footplate
beneath the rear seats and also round into the front wheelarches.

jono