My MokeMatic had Hardy Spicer joints because thats what MiniMatics and
Morris 1300 autos used.

With the combination of Hardy Spicer joints (and a ground down 1/2"
spanner to get at them) and a gear selector cable for the auto instead
of that horrid manual gear selector, I could get my engine into or out
of the Moke in under an hour.

Morris 1100/1300, Minimatic and CooperS. All of which have probably
either become extremely rare since the advent of imported second hand
Jap cars or become far too valuable for their own good.

You shouldn't really be splitting the ball cages out of the cups anyway. The
correct way of removing the inner pot joint is to split it from the side of
the diff. When you drop the engine unit back in you should line up the
joints just before the engine is sat right down. Then when you lower it
further at least one joint will just snap in on its own. It is then a simple
job to push the other in until the snap ring clicks into place.

If you split the joint, you are unlikely to put it back together in the same
orientation. This will mismatch wear patterns and accelerate the wear. You
should certainly never mix and match different cages and cups.

hiya
Yep, do it the way steve says and they pop in in seconds slide the rad side
in first then the other side and wiggle the engine side to side as you lower
. piece of piss.

alternatively spicer joints dont tend to pop out under hard cornering
braking when u hit a bump or pot hole. How often is that going to happen ?
so it real depends on how hard you drive and do you want the scraped
knuckles putting the spicers together ?

fragged

What part of NZ you in Mark? I have somewhere some hardy spicers sitting in
a box, not diff covers though, but you can machine std ones and fit bronze
bushes etc...but by far the easiet thing is to stay with Pot joints. I
always mark mine with a twink marker to make sure I get the 2 1/2's back in
the same location...just an idea

Tim in NZ...Palmerston to be precise