Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us
Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network
HomeAnnouncements
Discussion Groups
By Brand
BMWChevroletDodgeFordGMHondaLexusMercedes-BenzNissanPeugeotToyotaVolkswagenOther Brands
By Topic
4x4 CarsRVsDrivingMaintenance & RepairCar AudioCollectible Cars
Country Specific
Australian ForumsUK Forums
ArticlesAuto InsuranceBuyingCars & TechnologyMaintenanceMiscellaneousSafety
DMV Resources
Related Topics
MotorcyclesBoatsMore Topics ...

Car Forum / Mitsubishi Cars / November 2004

Tip: Looking for answers? Try searching our database.

need haynes manual

Thread view: 
Enable EMail Alerts  Start New Thread
Thread rating: 
Tanya - 19 Nov 2004 09:14 GMT
hi
(x-posted)
i need a haynes manual for the following:
mitsubishi / dodge / plymouth / chrysler (same car) 1989 colt (model
200) (?2000 series)
it has a 1.5 l engine; 4 cylinders; mpi; automatic transmission; 4 door;

fairly urgent
PLEASE ADVISE!
thanks in advance!
Matt Whiting - 19 Nov 2004 12:31 GMT
> hi
> (x-posted)
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> PLEASE ADVISE!
> thanks in advance!

Nobody needs a Haynes manual.  You are much better off buying a factory
manual, used if need be to save cost.

Matt
Tanya - 21 Nov 2004 01:43 GMT
> > hi
> > (x-posted)
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
>
> Matt

hi,
thanks for the suggestion
i have the factory manual.
sincerely,
Tanya
Joe Pfeiffer - 19 Nov 2004 15:40 GMT
> hi
> (x-posted)
> i need a haynes manual for the following:
> mitsubishi / dodge / plymouth / chrysler (same car) 1989 colt (model
> 200) (?2000 series)
> it has a 1.5 l engine; 4 cylinders; mpi; automatic transmission; 4 door;

No, you don't need a Haynes manual.  You need a factory service
manual.
Signature

Joseph J. Pfeiffer, Jr., Ph.D.       Phone -- (505) 646-1605
Department of Computer Science       FAX   -- (505) 646-1002
New Mexico State University          http://www.cs.nmsu.edu/~pfeiffer

Mike Behnke - 19 Nov 2004 15:51 GMT
> hi
> (x-posted)
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> PLEASE ADVISE!
> thanks in advance!

The only thing a Haynes manual (or Chilton for that matter) is good for
is for wiping your hands off after your completed the job correctly when
using the Factory Service Manual.

 Yes, more expensive, but worth the cost, as both Haynes and Chilton
are chock full off errors and incomplete directions.
Daniel J. Stern - 19 Nov 2004 17:43 GMT
> i need a haynes manual for the following:

No, you don't need a Haynes manual for the following. You need a FACTORY
service manual for the following. Haynes manuals are worse than worthless.

This should be included with every Haynes manual sold:

http://u225.torque.net/haynes_instructions.html
Tanya - 19 Nov 2004 18:31 GMT
> hi
> (x-posted)
> i need a haynes manual for the following:
> mitsubishi / dodge / plymouth / chrysler (same car) 1989 colt (model
> 200) (?2000 series)

<snip>
thank you (Matt, Joe, Mike, and Daniel (also for the link on the
instructions:)) ...
i get the picture.
i have the fsm -- i need something simpler (that explains more simply) as an
adjunct to the fsm.
(please do NOT tell me i should not be working on a car if i cannot
understand the fsm or similar:)
any suggestions (relating to a book) would be very much appreciated
thanks in advance!
Daniel J. Stern - 19 Nov 2004 20:21 GMT
> i have the fsm -- i need something simpler (that explains more simply) as an
> adjunct to the fsm.

Thing is, the Haynes or Chilton book *won't* do that. What is it that
you're having trouble understanding? Perhaps a basic automotive theory and
nomenclature book would do the job...
Tanya - 20 Nov 2004 00:03 GMT
> > i have the fsm -- i need something simpler (that explains more simply) as an
> > adjunct to the fsm.
>
> Thing is, the Haynes or Chilton book *won't* do that. What is it that
> you're having trouble understanding? Perhaps a basic automotive theory and
> nomenclature book would do the job...

hi and thanks for answering!
basically i have S.T.U.P.I.D. questions (for ex: what tools i would need) this is
in the haynes manual for my other car --
i would NOT follow haynes / chiltons for procedures if they were outlined in the
fsm.

do you know of any basic automotive theory / nomenclature books (more technical
than for ex: "the complete idiot's guide to auto mechanics")?
thanks
sincerely
Tanya
Geoff - 20 Nov 2004 03:58 GMT
>> > i have the fsm -- i need something simpler (that explains more simply)
>> > as an
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
> in the
> fsm.

Hi, Tanya.

Why don't you try posting about what task you want to perform, and we will
give you an idea as to what tools you need to get the job done properly.
Meanwhile, we'll assume you have some basic things you need for most
automotive repairs:

Basic Tools
o  Socket sets: 1/2" and 3/8" drive, both SAE and metric sizes.  Extensions
for same; the more and longer the better.
o  Box-end or combination open-end/box-end wrenches.  SAE and metric sizes.
o  Pliers.  You can frequently get away with a standard pair, but
adjustables come in handy.  Needle-nosed pliers are especially useful as
well.
o  Wire cutter/stripping tool.  You don't need anything fancy.
o  Screwdrivers.  A selection of both Phillips and flat-blades.  Long,
skinny flat-blades are often handy.
o  A utility knife, or other similar instrument.
o  Hammer.  If you have a typical claw hammer, it will do.  A ball-peen
hammer is useful.
o  Rubber or (less desirable) wooden mallet.  Used for "gently" "persuading"
things, where a regular hammer would damage parts.
o  Scraping tool -- a putty knife or razor-blade scraper will suffice.  You
may also require a plastic scraper if you're going to be removing old gasket
material from soft aluminum surfaces.
o  A pry (or crow) bar of some sort.
o  A magnetic tool, usually telescoping, for retrieving dropped fasteners or
sockets
o  An oil drain pan
o  A small floor jack and a pair of jack stands.  Choose carefully if you're
working on a large SUV; some are heavier than the rating on the less
expensive jacks/stands, and are too high off the ground to be lifted.
o  Something to block the wheels when lifting the vehicle with the jack.  A
couple of bricks work fine.
o  A shop light, with a steel or plastic protective cage surrounding the
bulb.  An inexpensive incandescent light works fine, but you'll want to
spend an extra dollar or two for the 'rough service' lightbulbs.

Consumables
o  A wire brush
o  An aerosol can of penetrating lubricant.
o  An aerosol can of carburetor cleaner or brake parts cleaner
o  A small blowtorch and a cylinder of propane, along with matches or a
spark igniter
o  An abundance of old rags, paper towels and a good waterless hand cleaner.
Lava soap works as well.
o  A roll of electrical tape

There are obviously many, many other items you could add to this list.
These are probably the bare minimum you will want to have to tackle light
repair work.  Being that winter is setting in for many parts of the country,
you will likely need to find a sheltered location to do your work.

If you're going to be doing much at all, add a torque wrench to the list
above.  You'll probably actually want two: one with a range in inch-pounds
for small fasteners, and one with a range in foot-pounds for larger
fasteners.  Basic units start around $25, but the quality is questionable.

--Geoff
Tanya - 21 Nov 2004 01:42 GMT
hi Geoff
thanks very much for posting the tool list!
i REALLY appreciate it
i *do* have some of tools that you mention...
thanks again
sincerely,
Tanya

> > hi and thanks for answering!
> > basically i have S.T.U.P.I.D. questions (for ex: what tools i would need)
[quoted text clipped - 63 lines]
>
> --Geoff
Joe Pfeiffer - 19 Nov 2004 21:40 GMT
> > hi
> > (x-posted)
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> i have the fsm -- i need something simpler (that explains more simply) as an
> adjunct to the fsm.

To elaborate a little on my earlier comment -- one of the many reasons
you don't want Haynes is that the way they "simplify" is by leaving
out steps.

> (please do NOT tell me i should not be working on a car if i cannot
> understand the fsm or similar:)
> any suggestions (relating to a book) would be very much appreciated
> thanks in advance!

Asking questions is probably the best bet.
Signature

Joseph J. Pfeiffer, Jr., Ph.D.       Phone -- (505) 646-1605
Department of Computer Science       FAX   -- (505) 646-1002
New Mexico State University          http://www.cs.nmsu.edu/~pfeiffer

Tanya - 20 Nov 2004 00:04 GMT
> > > hi
> > > (x-posted)
> > > i need a haynes manual for the following:
> > > mitsubishi / dodge / plymouth / chrysler (same car) 1989 colt (model
> > > 200) (?2000 series)

<snip>

> > i have the fsm -- i need something simpler (that explains more simply) as an
> > adjunct to the fsm.
>
> To elaborate a little on my earlier comment -- one of the many reasons
> you don't want Haynes is that the way they "simplify" is by leaving
> out steps.

i would not rely only on the simpler books but use it / them as a guideline and
follow the fsm etc.

> > (please do NOT tell me i should not be working on a car if i cannot
> > understand the fsm or similar:)
> > any suggestions (relating to a book) would be very much appreciated
> > thanks in advance!
>
> Asking questions is probably the best bet.

my questions are stupid... how to access certain parts (what parts i need to
remove).
what type of tools are needed for replacing spark-plugs (for that vehicle) etc.
the tool issue is the primary question for now. my haynes manual for my other car
lists what i would need <clearly> i imagine it is accurate wrt the list of tools
--  i should hope -- maybe not?
thanks!
sincerely
Tanya

> --
> Joseph J. Pfeiffer, Jr., Ph.D.       Phone -- (505) 646-1605
> Department of Computer Science       FAX   -- (505) 646-1002
> New Mexico State University          http://www.cs.nmsu.edu/~pfeiffer
Ted Mittelstaedt - 20 Nov 2004 09:29 GMT
> > Asking questions is probably the best bet.
>
> my questions are stupid... how to access certain parts (what parts i need to
> remove).

Tanya, if you read the section in the FSM and don't understand it, your
questions aren't going to be stupid.

Some joker asked if he could feed his car vegetables a couple days ago
in rec.autos.tech, THAT is a stupid question.

You may not think so but it is as easy as pie to tell the difference between
a fool who doesen't have a FSM and asks a stupid question, and someone
who does have a FSM, reads the pertinent section, then asks questions.

In fact questions like this are why we all bother reading this ng.

> what type of tools are needed for replacing spark-plugs (for that vehicle) etc.

You aren't going to help yourself by asking something like this and not
telling
us why.

Here's a start, you can let me know if I'm wrong or not:

"My car is running like crap and I want to do a basic tuneup to eliminate
obvious bullshit, so I'm replacing the coil/plugs/wires, I read the FSM and
what tools should I use"

Ted
Tanya - 21 Nov 2004 01:43 GMT
hi and thanks for replying and for the suggestions
[...below...]

> > > Asking questions is probably the best bet.
> >
[quoted text clipped - 28 lines]
>
> Ted

close
car runs poorly when it is cold (even without the blower (fan in the car)) -- it
*does* start with no problem ...
the spark plugs were changed last week (the ones that were replaced are VERY
black and were only in the car for ~ 10 months)

i want to look at the spark plugs -- i don't know how :-)

thanks again
sincerely
Tanya
Ted Mittelstaedt - 21 Nov 2004 06:17 GMT
> hi and thanks for replying and for the suggestions
> [...below...]
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
>
> i want to look at the spark plugs -- i don't know how :-)

Leave the plugs alone.  If your plugs were very black when changed last week
after only being in the engine for 10 months, then your engine is burning
oil, unless they were the wrong plugs.  If nothing has been changed since 10
months
ago other than the plugs, the ones that are in there today are rapidly on
their way to
getting black.

What does the inside of the end of the tailpipe look like?  Is it black and
sooty?

If you have the car idling in the driveway on a sunny day and someone guns
the engine, does a big puff of stinky blueish smoke come out the back?

How many miles are on this 1989 Colt?  How many quarts of oil is this car
going
through in between oil changes?

The cold drivability problems are just a side effect, and are not important.
They
are probably happening because this is a high-mileage engine with worn
rings,
which is why it's burning oil, and the compression on this engine is in the
toilet.
As a result the engine systems are way out of wack, trying to overcompensate
for
this.

If your using more than a quart of oil every 2000 miles then your not going
to
fix this by adjusting and tinkering with the engine.  You either need a new
engine, or a rebuild on the one you have, or a junkyard engine that isn't
worn
out.

Ted
Tanya - 21 Nov 2004 15:51 GMT
<snip>

> > close
> > car runs poorly when it is cold (even without the blower (fan in the
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> after only being in the engine for 10 months, then your engine is burning
> oil, unless they were the wrong plugs.

i don't know if they were the wrong plugs:
i have them and they are
NGK
R
BPR6EY
11
the fsm says to use:
NGK
BPR6ES - 11
i don't know whether the Y vs. S is important (because i got "champion RN9YC?"
(the box is in the car) however these are different in the last number but the
place's (where i got them) catalogue says there are fine for that auto. (should
be RN9YC4)
the former plugs are charred.
what was changed: there was <apparently> an exhaust leak which was fixed
(replacement)
and an emissions treatment (something for the oil; engine and gas) it had an oil
change
then it failed nox (>2000?) and was "readjusted" -- the place said that it had
to be reset.
it apparently passed after this

> If nothing has been changed since 10
> months
> ago other than the plugs, the ones that are in there today are rapidly on
> their way to
> getting black.

probably

> What does the inside of the end of the tailpipe look like?  Is it black and
> sooty?

it became black last summer on several occasions (xs rich exhaust) so i don't
think that it is worse -- difficult to tell

> If you have the car idling in the driveway on a sunny day and someone guns
> the engine, does a big puff of stinky blueish smoke come out the back?

no (no black smoke -- no blue smoke)

> How many miles are on this 1989 Colt?

~70,000

> How many quarts of oil is this car
> going
> through in between oil changes?

hardly any -- uses VERY little oil
(also used very little fuel)

> The cold drivability problems are just a side effect, and are not important.
> They
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> for
> this.

this is why i would really like to be informed since i have no idea whether
"procedures" were actually done

> If your using more than a quart of oil every 2000 miles then your not going
> to
> fix this by adjusting and tinkering with the engine.  You either need a new
> engine, or a rebuild on the one you have, or a junkyard engine that isn't
> worn
> out.

it should not need that right now ... (was kept in really good "shape")

> Ted

thanks for reply!
sincerely
Tanya
Bill Putney - 21 Nov 2004 17:19 GMT
> i don't know if they were the wrong plugs:
> i have them and they are
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> be RN9YC4)
> the former plugs are charred.

A quick Google search turned up several places that say that the Y has a
V-groove around the electrode and the S does not.  This particular hit:
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/downs/3837/sprkplug.html claims that
the V-groove improves performance.  I don't know if the Champions have
the groove or not (I'm confused from your post as to whether you
currently have the NGK ...Y or the Champions), but it doesn't sound like
either of the NGK or equiv. Champion plugs would be a catastrophic
mistake being that apparently the groove is the only difference between
the 'Y' and the 'S'.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
adddress with the letter 'x')
Tanya - 22 Nov 2004 22:28 GMT
> > i don't know if they were the wrong plugs:
> > i have them and they are
[quoted text clipped - 28 lines]
> http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! >100,000 Newsgroups
> ---= East/West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =---

thanks for the information
the champion RN9YC are in the car now.
the fsm recommends champion RN9YC4 -- but apparently that (the '4') makes no difference
(i assume b/c they don't exist anymore)

i found the actual car on an auto parts Web site and either the NGK BPR6EY (v-power) OR
NGK BPR6ES (standard) or the champion (without the 4 at the end) are recommended.
i don't think it is the spark plugs.
thanks very much for the link
sincerely
Tanya
Dan C - 22 Nov 2004 23:49 GMT
> the champion RN9YC are in the car now. the fsm recommends champion RN9YC4
> -- but apparently that (the '4') makes no difference (i assume b/c they
> don't exist anymore)

The "4" just indicates the packaging...  It means there are 4 of them in
the package.  Meaningless...

Signature

If you're not on the edge, you're taking up too much space.
Linux Registered User #327951

Matt Whiting - 20 Nov 2004 00:18 GMT
>>hi
>>(x-posted)
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
> any suggestions (relating to a book) would be very much appreciated
> thanks in advance!

I wouldn't look to Haynes for that.  I'd look for a general textbook on
auto repair, in the short term.  In the long term, I'd sign up for a
class or two at a local Votech school.

Matt
Richie Rich - 19 Nov 2004 19:49 GMT
Not a fan of these manuals, but here's a link to a chiltons book.

http://www.delmarlearning.com/browse_product_detail.aspx?catid=12024&isbn=0801990629

> hi
> (x-posted)
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> PLEASE ADVISE!
> thanks in advance!
Tanya - 20 Nov 2004 00:06 GMT
thank you for the link!
sincerely
Tanya

> Not a fan of these manuals, but here's a link to a chiltons book.
>
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> > 200) (?2000 series)
> > it has a 1.5 l engine; 4 cylinders; mpi; automatic transmission; 4 door;
MisterSkippy - 20 Nov 2004 13:50 GMT
>thank you for the link!
>sincerely
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>> > 200) (?2000 series)
>> > it has a 1.5 l engine; 4 cylinders; mpi; automatic transmission; 4 door;

Try also
www.amazon.com
www.bn.com

"When a legislature undertakes to proscribe the exercise of a citizen's
constitutional rights it acts lawlessly and the citizen can take matters into
his own hands and proceed on the basis that such a law is no law at all."
- Justice William O. Douglas
Tanya - 22 Nov 2004 22:39 GMT
> >thank you for the link!
> >sincerely
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
> his own hands and proceed on the basis that such a law is no law at all."
> - Justice William O. Douglas

hi,
i did look there (at amazon and b+n) but wasn't sure what manufacturer to look under
thanks for the suggestions though
sincerely
Tanya
LameBMX - 21 Nov 2004 06:34 GMT
> hi
> (x-posted)
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> PLEASE ADVISE!
> thanks in advance!

if you really wish to use these manuals try your local library, from
reading the other posts sounds as if a) you would be better off looking
yourself and making your own gameplan to work on a vehicle (at least if
you leave steps out or make extra steps all you can blame is yourself)
b) pay attention to the reply about it being worn rings, could be fuel
air mixture also albiet very unlikely
Tanya - 22 Nov 2004 22:36 GMT
> > hi
> > (x-posted)
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
> b) pay attention to the reply about it being worn rings, could be fuel
> air mixture also albiet very unlikely

the reason that i asked the question was b/c i couldn't find either chilton's
or haynes for the particular auto. (it is registered as a plymouth; chrysler
covered the warranty; mitsubishi apparently built the engine and dodge is on
some of the paperwork.)
(wasn't sure what it was or would be wrt a book)
thank you,
Tanya
Tanya - 23 Nov 2004 16:28 GMT
<snip>

> b) pay attention to the reply about it being worn rings, could be fuel
> air mixture also albiet very unlikely

just wonder about the following:
it recently failed the emissions test (only nitrous oxide though ~?2000?)
it passed hc and co -- wouldn't that rule out worn rings?
 
Sign In
Join
My Latest Posts
My Monitored Threads
My Blog
My Photo Gallery
My Profile
My Homepage

Start New Thread
Enable EMail Alerts
Rate this Thread



©2008 Advenet LLC   Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.