montero head gasket retorque

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kronos - 15 Dec 2005 01:52 GMT

have just installed new cylinder heads (old ones cracked) on my 1990 3.0
montero. the new gaskets seem to be graphite. at least they are the color
of graphite. can anyone advise on issue of if they need to be retorqued
after initial installation? am getting several different opinions. some
say no need if they are graphite, others say retorque anyway after cooling
or while still hot??

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Nobody U. Know - 15 Dec 2005 11:10 GMT

According to the shop manual the torque should be applied in three stages up
to 72 ft-lbs. There is no mention of re-torqueing.

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> have just installed new cylinder heads (old ones cracked) on my 1990 3.0
> montero. the new gaskets seem to be graphite. at least they are the color
> of graphite. can anyone advise on issue of if they need to be retorqued
> after initial installation? am getting several different opinions. some
> say no need if they are graphite, others say retorque anyway after cooling
> or while still hot??

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kronos - 17 Dec 2005 08:32 GMT

Thanks for that info. My Chilton or Haynes does'nt mention re-torquing
either. But I have a CD thats supposed to be "from the shop manual the
service dealers use". There is quite a bit of technical info and specs not
found in my manuals. So they say you should re-torque after the 1st warm-up
and complete cooldown cycle. But then they don't talk about graphite
gaskets or TTY head bolts which are relatively new.

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mg - 17 Dec 2005 03:13 GMT

>have just installed new cylinder heads (old ones cracked) on my 1990 3.0
>montero. the new gaskets seem to be graphite. at least they are the color
>of graphite. can anyone advise on issue of if they need to be retorqued
>after initial installation? am getting several different opinions. some
>say no need if they are graphite, others say retorque anyway after cooling
>or while still hot??

Check out http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/postlist.php?Cat=&Board=UBB69

One of the members recently rebuilt a 3.0l. He found a few things that
you need to check. Such as....
1) Be sure to clean the head bolt holes. Use a bottom tap to clean the
threads.
2) Measure each head bolt.
3) Measure the head thickness at each bolt hole.
4) Thread each bolt into the block without the head on and measure the
exposed bolt length.

It seems that if the head is trimmed, it may cause the head bolts to
bottom out in the block. This means that the head won't be clamped to
the block. Do some searches on 4x4wire, there is a lot of good info
there.

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kronos - 17 Dec 2005 08:46 GMT

Thats something I should have thought of but did'nt. I installed 2 rebuilt
heads that were resurfaced. By how much I don't know. Since almost
everything is back together I sure hate to take the heads back off. Maybe
i can remove 1 bolt at at time and measure the depth of each hole from the
top of the heads. Or try to get a vise grip on the flat washers and see if
I can turn them. If I can't the bolts should be tight against the heads,

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