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Car Forum / Mitsubishi Cars / August 2006Over revved my GST now won't run
I have also posted this on DMS Tuners - just looking for knowledgeable opinions I just replaced my t25 with a 14b. I left it on the Boost control solenoid because I wanted to see the difference. The 14b would not build boost over 10 lb, the t25 would pull 14 lbs. I redid my LICP and fixed a boost leak. Took it out for ride and was watching the boost gauge instead of the tach and jumped on 1st and over revved the engine - maybe 8k. The ecu shut the engine down when it came back I could not get over 1500 rpm, anything over that and it sounded like I was running on two cylinders - no smoke, oil etc. I pulled the plugs they looked like the engine was running rich but there were no particles on them. Pulled the top cover of the timing belt, the belt felt loose to - thought I had skipped timing so pulled the covers off to look at timing belt. All the timing marks were still lined up. I know I have compression, the spark plug caps pop off when I turn the engine over - but I don't have a compression gauge, so don't what the numbers are. Suggestion???? Does the ECU have a "cripple mode" that can be reset?? >... over revved the engine - maybe 8k. The ecu shut the > engine down when it came back I could not get over 1500 rpm, anything over > that and it sounded like I was running on two cylinders Pop the valve cover again and look at the rockers. There should not be any gap under any of the inlet valve stems. If there is, you've probably bent a couple of inlet valves.  SignatureStewart DIBBS www.pixcl.com/lancerproject.htm http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=valve+float >>... over revved the engine - maybe 8k. The ecu shut the >> engine down when it came back I could not get over 1500 rpm, anything [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > gap under any of the inlet valve stems. If there is, you've probably bent > a couple of inlet valves. Hopefully he popped a rew rocker arms. I've done that and the car ran like sh.t. SignatureTodd Honea ------------------------ > http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=valve+float > [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > gap under any of the inlet valve stems. If there is, you've probably bent > > a couple of inlet valves. > >... over revved the engine - maybe 8k. The ecu shut the > > engine down when it came back I could not get over 1500 rpm, anything over [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > gap under any of the inlet valve stems. If there is, you've probably bent a > couple of inlet valves. Thanks for the feedback! What I found: Boost leak - I have a Dave Brode UICP, it has about 3/4 inch between BOV and the end of the pipe befor it connects to the stock flex pipe. I had tightened the clamp on the lip instead of behind the lip on the pipe. At first glance you could not tell it was off, but when I grabbed the pipe - it was loose. Next question - What do I have to remove to replace camshaft oil seals on a 2g 2.0 turbo? Timing belt Valve cover sprocket - how hard is this to pull? Do I have to remove camshaft or will the seal come out with journals still tight? What about front main? How do you pull the sprocket on a 2g 2.0 turbo? My Chilton's does not say..... Correct...but you may be able to just coat the back of them with some RTV if it's nowhere near timing belt time. If you are doing the belt, add tensioner and balance shaft belt. The sprockets are fairly easy to get off. It's harder getting the cams back on with the rockers in place than the sprocket. SignatureTodd Honea ------------------------ > > Next question - [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > How do you pull the sprocket on a 2g 2.0 turbo? My Chilton's does not > say..... > Correct...but you may be able to just coat the back of them with some RTV if > it's nowhere near timing belt time. If you are doing the belt, add tensioner > and balance shaft belt. The sprockets are fairly easy to get off. It's > harder getting the cams back on with the rockers in place than the sprocket. Thanks, its no where near timing belt time, but I already have all of the belts and covers off so that I could check timing for this problem. SOOO since there is a visible leak from one of the camshafts figure I might as well change the seal. OK so after I pull the timing belt, pull the valve cover, and remove the spockets. Will the seals come right out or is there anything else I need to do? > ------------------------ > > [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > How do you pull the sprocket on a 2g 2.0 turbo? My Chilton's does not > > say..... You might be able to get them out without pulling the camshafts, but the only time I've done them is with the cams off. That's going to require removing the camshaft bearing caps. The cams and bearing caps should be labled as to what goes where, but it doesn't help to actually note them before re-assembly. There is a torque order when putting them back on. Also, you don't want to over torque and have to helicoil the bolt holes for the bearings. I can post line drawings if you need. SignatureTodd Honea ------------------------ > > Correct...but you may be able to just coat the back of them with some RTV > if [quoted text clipped - 29 lines] > > > How do you pull the sprocket on a 2g 2.0 turbo? My Chilton's does not > > > say..... > You might be able to get them out without pulling the camshafts, but the > only time I've done them is with the cams off. That's going to require [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > I can post line drawings if you need. Thanks, I have a Chilton's and it has the sequence and torque specs. I was just hoping that I could replace the seals without pulling the cams.... It looks like the biggest problem might be trying to get the RTV in without having the cams out. What type of RTV should I use? Removing the cams is not hard. You should hit Ebay for a manual CD Chilton's really sucks. http://www.ecanfix.com/~manualcd/gift/dsm/1g-90-92-4g63overhaul.pdf >> You might be able to get them out without pulling the camshafts, but the >> only time I've done them is with the cams off. That's going to require [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > > What type of RTV should I use? OK I changed the camshaft seals this weekend - MAN those sprocket bolts were tough! and yes I had to pull the cams. Any tips on getting the main crankshaft seal out? I am assuming - that the center of the sprocket on the crank (female 1/2 square drive) is a nut that comes out - correct? > Removing the cams is not hard. You should hit Ebay for a manual CD Chilton's > really sucks. [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > > > > What type of RTV should I use? Did you follow the link I posted? It's all there..... > OK I changed the camshaft seals this weekend - MAN those sprocket bolts > were [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] >> > >> > What type of RTV should I use? here's a better link for you, same site just the whole directory http://www.ecanfix.com/~manualcd/gift/dsm/index.html The manual is not very clear but I can figure it out thanks..... It's a scan of the factory service manual. The square nut you mention is actually a bolt. You might want an impact for that, it is 100lb/ft.... The seals are behind the flywheel and in the front cover. It can be done in-car but is much easier if you pull the motor. Do you have a leak? I have never had a problem here. > here's a better link for you, same site just the whole directory > http://www.ecanfix.com/~manualcd/gift/dsm/index.html > > The manual is not very clear but I can figure it out thanks..... No leak - my leak was from the camshaft seals. Just thought that since I had the front of the motor off, I would change all oil seals. Balance shaft, oil pump and Front main. That is why I was asking you, it sounds as though you have done this before, I was trying to assess how difficult and if it was worth it........ > It's a scan of the factory service manual. > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > > > The manual is not very clear but I can figure it out thanks..... |
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