4G63N ignition coil

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Andrea - 15 Jun 2007 21:59 GMT

Last year I had to fix a trouble witn my ignition coil. It had been
overheated by the previous owner, so it sparked when hot and the engine
stalled when the air conditioner was on. The workshop made an extra
insulating sheet to fix the trouble, but this year I hear again the
clicking noise of the sparks coming from behind the air intake, so from
the coil.

Ignition is not easy with cold or moisty weather, the idle is not
regular and I guess that a new coil could fix the problem. Ignition
wires are 10mm. brand new, I have Bosch platinum plugs and, if
necessary, also a NGK iridium set ready to use.

On a 1991 Eclipse, I ask what's the right spare part to look for;
moreover, I noticed on ebay a COP system but the opinions on
dsmtuners.com are skeptical about effectiveness of these devices.
Also having a non-turbo engine disencourages too extreme and expensive
solutions.

Please give your opinion and help.

Thank you all
Andrea

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Stewart DIBBS - 16 Jun 2007 01:22 GMT

> ... but this year I hear again the clicking noise of the sparks coming
> from behind the air intake, so from the coil...Ignition is not easy with
> cold or moisty weather, the idle is not regular

Unusual to get the coil arcing like that, and you should not need a
"shield". Cold or moisty weather hard starts are commonly not helped by
poor connections on the coolant temperature sensor (2 wire device, the 1
wire is the temperature switch for the idiot light).

Irregular idle (surging) is caused by a faulty or sticking Air Idle Motor
(AIM) on the throttle body, or leaking or wrongly conected vacuum hoses.

Pull the coil and wires out and clean them with WD40. Pull the throttle body
and clean out the carbon and fuel lacquor build up so the butterfly moves
freely. Remove the cover from the AIM and CAREFULLY check that the gears
inside are not stripped.

Check the vacuum hoses and replace any that need it. Verify the routing from
the diagram on the inside of the hood.

Locate the coolant temperature sensor on the thermostat housing, and ensure
that the wires and connectors are in good condition. Its not uncommcon to
have the connector not mating properly with one of the coolant temperature
sensor pins. In this it will be a pig to statr when its cold, and it will
use more fuel.

Stewart DIBBS
www.pixcl.com/lancerproject

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Andrea - 16 Jun 2007 06:04 GMT

Stewart DIBBS ha scritto:

> Unusual to get the coil arcing like that, and you should not need a
> "shield". Cold or moisty weather hard starts are commonly not helped by
> poor connections on the coolant temperature sensor (2 wire device, the 1
> wire is the temperature switch for the idiot light).

good idea and i'll check it, but the symptom is not only bad starts. in
fact the start is troublesome with gasoline but not with LPG. but, the
worst is to have the engine running like chocked until the temperature
is around 90°C.

This could be because the moist is dryed after running at high
temperature or, as you say, due to bad temp.sensor connection.

The shield was done by a good professional of my town, who told me that
the ignition coil was damaged by overheating.

> Irregular idle (surging) is caused by a faulty or sticking Air Idle Motor
> (AIM) on the throttle body, or leaking or wrongly conected vacuum hoses.

ISC is brand new and upgraded and the vacuum hoses should be ok.

> Locate the coolant temperature sensor on the thermostat housing, and ensure
> that the wires and connectors are in good condition. Its not uncommcon to
> have the connector not mating properly with one of the coolant temperature
> sensor pins. In this it will be a pig to statr when its cold, and it will
> use more fuel.

thank you Stewart!
Andrea

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Gyzmologist - 16 Jun 2007 16:28 GMT

> Ignition is not easy with cold or moisty weather, the idle is not
> regular and I guess that a new coil could fix the problem. Ignition
> wires are 10mm. brand new, I have Bosch platinum plugs and, if
> necessary, also a NGK iridium set ready to use.

Idle surge (up and down) can also be caused by the fast idle air valve
(FIAV). It is a thermo-mechanical device in the throttle body and is not
adjustable or repairable. If you have coolant lines going to your
throttle body then you have one. The cheapest fix is to install a block
of plate. You will loose the high idle when cold. If you live in a warm
climate it should not be a problem.

Signature

Gyz

07 Saturn Sky
98 Dodge Status ES
94 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST

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