Hi,

I drive a 1992 Mitsubishi Galant (2.0l GLSi DOHC) - at least I used to
until it suddenly stopped on me (of course, in a narrow one-way street
with lots of people behind me and only a handcapped parking space
nearby. *sigh*). The engine just went out and I was unsuccessful
restarting it. The AA guy that I called said that the sparks were
infrequent and too weak.
I checked that at home and the sparks are somewhat infrequent. I not
sure if they are too weak, too. (Spark plugs are fine.)
After reading about the ECU caps problem on the Internet, I checked the
ECU. (I could sometimes hear the "clicking of death" from under the
dashboard - a sign that the ECU is constantly resetting itself.)
One capacitor had leaked some electrolyte. I orded the caps and replaced
all of them. Out of curiosity I checked the capacitors that I removed
and they were all performing within specification - even the one that
had spilled some electrolyte.
*sighagain*
Needless to say, the car didn't start even after replacing the caps, so
I investigated the ECU error codes.
When the car is off and I turn the key to "ignition" (2nd position of
the key, i.e. I don't start the engine) I can hear sounds coming from
the engine compartment - sounds like a valve frequently opening and
closing to me. After about 30 seconds that sound stops, after another 30
seconds the "Check Engine" light comes on. ECU error code reads "25" -
Barometric pressure sensor faulty.
If I start the car shortly (i.e. crank just for half a second or so) the
error code remains 25.
If I crank for a little longer (a second or more) the error code reports
a faulty ECU (constant signal) - that doesn't go away unless I switch
off the car.
The above behavior is reproducible even after a disconnect of the
battery.
I suspect the ECU processor to stall if I crank for more than a second
or so. (At one time, the fuel pump stayed on after the ECU "failed" and
didn't turn off at all.)

So, here are my questions:

- Any ideas, anyone? ;-)
- What about the code "25" - does that always happen if you leave the
car on "Ignition" for too long without starting it? That error can't be
produced by a faulty ECU. So either the sensor is faulty or it's a
connection problem. Or a power supply problem.
- The ECU runs fine at first. Why does the ECU stall after cranking for
a second or so? Faulty power supply? (I don't suspect a loose
connection). That'd lead to back the ECU and a faulty component.
- I've heard that besides the capacitor problems other components in the
ECU tend to fail, too (a diode was mentioned quite frequently...) Any
hint on what components to check? Checking the components is no problem
for me - it's just either complicated (ECU in the car under operation)
or complicated (ECU not in the car - desoldering components
neccessary...).
- Does anybody know a way to buy a rebuilt ECU within Europe? Any
rebuilders?

Thanks a lot for any advice (and sorry for the long post... ;-)
Norman