While I can't speak of this vehicle specifically, I know that cars of this
vintage all have idle management systems, usually controlled by the ECU.
The idle speed can be adjusted,  there is a number of ways that it can be
done, depends on the engine and the manufacturer.  It also sounds like the
load sensing / idle speed circuit is not working.
Question 1. when you start the car from a cold start, does it rev high for a
few minutes as the engine warms up?
I would bet the problem is around the throttle body area.  Check here
specifically for disconnected connectors.  Try reseating the various
connectors.

There is usually a motor or solenoid valve of some kind that controls the
throttle vane.  Make sure it is working.  With respect to question 1, does
the idle change when you unplug the connector that powers the idle control
motor (if it changes, then the motor/solenoid is working).

Manuals can be had from e-bay.  Some dealers will order a manual from the
manufacturer, and there are web sites that sell manuals (although right now
I can't think of a Mitsu vendor).
By far the best manual is the manufacturers manual.
I've seen cloned soft copies of the Eclipse manual and even an Acura REST,
floating around the internet for free.  You might even be able to find one
for the colt.

Good luck

Nirodac

Hi,

Sorry if this has been asked before (I looked but couldn't find anything
really
relevant), but my mum is having a problem with the car she bought about 7
months ago. It's a 1993 Mitsubishi Colt 1.6 GLXi.

The problem started when the head gasket blew (the radiator had been in poor
shape when we bought it, but wasn't fixed due to the expense, and
subsequently
blew when my mum was driving down the motorway, causing it to overheat). It
was
towed back here and fixed by a local garage, but subsequently developed this
problem we're now seeing.

The problem is that the car seems to have difficulty starting. When you turn
the key, you often need to tap the accelerator slightly to get it to start
(sometimes it'll nearly start, then not, and repeat that until you tap the
accelerator in rhythm with it). If the engine is warm, it generally seems to
start alright. My mum says she can't trust it anymore since she's afraid
that
it won't start when she's driven somewhere. The engine also seems to be
idling
slightly slower than it used to, and once (last night) it seemed to start to
stall when I was sitting at some lights. Using the electric windows
simultaniously seems to take it to the brink of stalling too, although I
can't
help but let go of the controls at that point since I don't want it to
actually
stall (using both windows always reduced the RPMs to almost-stalling levels
before, but it normally revved itself up to compensate quickly. I hope this
vague description gets what I mean across!).

The engine hasn't done 500 miles since it was repaired yet, so it's not had
the
head re-tightened or the oil changed, so perhaps they could affect it (I
don't
know all that much about the specifics of engines so can't tell if that's
relevant). My dad seems to think it might be the electronic choke, but if
that's done entirely by the engine management then I don't see how the
gasket
blowing could change it. He's also checked things like air intakes, spark
plugs
and so on. Thanks in advance for any help.

In an entirely unrelated issue, is there any sort of manual (or website)
regarding the car as a whole? We have a manual but it only covers the
engine,
and the driver's side door switch doesn't work so the courtesy light doesn't
come on when you open it, which is very annoying :)

Thanks,

the key, you often need to tap the accelerator slightly to get it to start
(sometimes it'll nearly start, then not, and repeat that until you tap the
accelerator in rhythm with it). If the engine is warm, it generally seems to
start alright.

1. Check that the tappets are not tight: common problem on these engines.
This can happen after a head job, and will cause hard start and run until
warm.
2. Check the air idle mixture screw on the throttle body. May be under a
black plastic button. Don't confuse the AIM screw with the screw that sets
the throttle closed position. So , torque the head bolts again, and reset
the tappet clearance.
3. Check the electrical connections on the air cleaner (this is the Mass Air
Sensor). If the MAS is not passing correct values to the ECU, you get rough
running.
4. Check that the connections to the coolant temp sender  (near the
themostat housing) is undamaged and making proper contact. This sends a
voltage to the ECU, and if it's open circuit, the engine will be REALLY hard
to start cold.

Stewart DIBBS
www.vysor.com/lancerproject

If the problem appeared immediately following the head gasket repair,
it is possible an electrical connector or vacuum line was not
reattached properly or at all. A lot of parts have to be removed and
reinstalled when doing a head gasket. Poke around under the hood and
see what you can find.
For manuals try
www.ebay.com
www.helminc.com
www.factoryautomanuals.com
FWIW
YMMV
DFB