 |
 | Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us |
 | Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network |
Car Forum / Mitsubishi Cars / February 200499 GST spyder humming noise while at highway speeds
Hey everyone, I have a 99 gst spyder (5 speed) that's making a humming/whirrling noise between 40 and 60 mph in any gear (3-5th). Once the noise starts, if you slowly decellerate it gets louder and sometimes when you get to around 30-35ish it'll come and go and sound *almost* like grinding, but not. It's hard to describe. The sound doesn't happen all the time, is totally gone above 60, and goes away with the clutch in and in neutral. You can however hear the sound, very faintly, with the clutch in and car in gear. The local mitsu dealer checked the tranny and said it was fine (they tore it apart and checked the gears under the remaining powertrain warranty). I'm pretty stumped as to what it could be. I don't want to bring it back to them and pay the diagnostic fee unless I'm fairly certain of what's causing the noise. A friend of mine said that it could be a CV joint or wheel bearing, which might make sense since I hear a loud click come from the drivers side wheel well every so often. Any ideas? Is that clicking "every so often" more noticeable when your turning a corner. Check the CVJ for broken boots or grease leakage. Nirodac > Hey everyone, > [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > > Any ideas? It seems to be more noticeable when I brake and turn while slowing down, but it also happens when I accelerate. It only clicks once, it's loud and I can feel it. >Is that clicking "every so often" more noticeable when your turning a >corner. Check the CVJ for broken boots or grease leakage. > >Nirodac Sounds like it clicks when you change the load on the wheels (i.e. go from coasting to accelerating, or from normal driving (or coasting) to braking to slow down). Could be a problem with your differential (in the transaxle) or maybe a bearing in the wheel. The humming might indicate a wheel bearing. Try this, jack up the car, in neutral, e-brake on, and turn the wheel by hand. There should be NO grinding sounds (beyond the brake pads on the rotors) clicking sounds or rough spots. Grab the wheel on the SIDES of the wheel and try to move the wheel back and forth. Try this also by grabbing the top and almost bottom (NEVER put you hand UNDER the wheel of a jacked up car) of the tire and rocking the tire back and forth again. There should be no movement at all. If you have movement, you have a problem. Not the best test for a bad bearing, but it's cheap and easy. For the cost of a bearing it's also cheaper to repair than a differential . Oh, and did you check the CV joint for grease leakage and or broken rubber boots. Nirodac > It seems to be more noticeable when I brake and turn while slowing > down, but it also happens when I accelerate. [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > > >Nirodac usually when it clicks I have it in N or have the cluch in. I need to jack it up and take a look. I don't know much about the mechanical aspect of cars (although I'm quickly learning thanks to my 93 wrangler which I started to do all the work on myself). Once it gets warmer out I'll try and get it up on a jack and see. I haven't had a chance to check the CV joints yet. Maybe I'll just ask the dealer when it goes in for 33k service next month. >Sounds like it clicks when you change the load on the wheels (i.e. go from >coasting to accelerating, or from normal driving (or coasting) to braking to [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] >> > >> >Nirodac |
Reply to this Message |
 Sign In
 Join
 My Latest Posts My Monitored Threads My Blog My Photo Gallery My Profile My Homepage Start New Thread Enable EMail Alerts Rate this Thread
|
©2008 Advenet LLC Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.