"New" Galant oil pan/bottom end issues

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Matt L - 06 Jun 2004 22:17 GMT

I recently "acquired" a 94 16 valve Auto Galant kind of cheap (buying it as
a "school" car for brotherinlaw), buying it from a dealer friend who's
letting me drive it around for a few weeks.

I tried to change the oil; but the oil pan plug was stuck beyond my
willingness to try to turn it any further (I was hitting it lightly with
hammer and no movement). Should I just take it to an oil change place and
have them swap out an oversize plug?

The oil pan seems to have a big dent in it from the front - should that
worry me? The car's drivetrain "drives" very well otherwise, no funny
noises from engine or anything (lots of little electrical gremlines,
though).

One other worrying thing is that I can see a fair bit of the "ring" gear -
it almost seems as though there should be some sort of covering plate, as
there seems to be a spot for such a thing and bolt-holes; but nothing there.
Should there be a part here?

This car is very cheap, and we like it, and will keep it barring any major
major issues. Should I be worried about the dented oil pan?

Thanks,
Matt

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simpleton - 07 Jun 2004 00:57 GMT

put a six point socket on it and get some leverage.
the "nut" is a piece that's spotwelded to the pan. i have seen them break
off but it's an easy fix with a mig welder. a new condition oil pan is less
than $50 and can be found on the trader
www.dsmtrader.com or at cherry http://www.cherry-auto.com/
there is an inspection plate missing from the car allowing you to view the
flywheel. it won't kill you if you don't replace it but if you want one the
sources above will have it.

> I recently "acquired" a 94 16 valve Auto Galant kind of cheap (buying it as
> a "school" car for brotherinlaw), buying it from a dealer friend who's
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
> Thanks,
> Matt

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Matt L - 07 Jun 2004 01:33 GMT

Maybe I didn't inspect properly - are you saying that the thing I was trying
to turn (hitting my large socket wrench with a hammer) is spot-welded on?
Where's the drain plug then? Sorry if it's a stupid question - I guess I
don't fully understand the distinction between the drain plug and the "nut"
here. What I was trying to turn was on the back of the oilpan (back looking
from the front).

Thanks for easing my mind about the inspection plate. I'll probably leave
it off, spending on such priorities would go against the paradigm of this
car (minimal cheap transport for brotherinlaw for 2 years).
Would using this dented oil pan hurt me? Is it vital to the oil flow on
this type of engine? (I figure on some designs it is, some it isn't)?

Thanks,
Matt

> put a six point socket on it and get some leverage.
> the "nut" is a piece that's spotwelded to the pan. i have seen them break
[quoted text clipped - 31 lines]
> > Thanks,
> > Matt

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Nirodac - 07 Jun 2004 01:57 GMT

Typical oil pans have a "nut" welded to the sheet medal that is formed into
your oil pan. Into this nut you screw the drain plug, this plugs the hole
that is the center of the nut. What the other poster was trying to say was,
use a 6 point socket on the drain plug, and IF the welded nut breaks off
instead, it can be welded back on with a mig welder. Normally you don't
need the plug that tight, if you use the correct plastic washer.
As for the dent, it depends on where, and how big, typically the sump oil
pump is at the lowest location of the oil pan. As long as it gets the oil
and the crank isn't hitting the pan, I'd leave it.

> Maybe I didn't inspect properly - are you saying that the thing I was trying
> to turn (hitting my large socket wrench with a hammer) is spot-welded on?
[quoted text clipped - 56 lines]
> > > Thanks,
> > > Matt

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