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Car Forum / Mitsubishi Cars / July 2004RVR motor problems
I have a 1993 RVR. A couple of months ago it developed a noisy tapid, as they say a noisy tapid is a happy tapid. However soon after it developed another knocking niose in the motor which does seem to be lower down in the motor. No one seems to know what it is. This second noise only happens when the motor is started first thing in the morning also the tapid only rattles or worse when it is first started. The tapid will sometimes get a little noisy when the motor is hot but not often. Has anyone else had any of these problems with their RVR's? It not easy to explain the noise but does sound like a man in the motor with a little hammer happily tapping away. We are trying to work out if the second noise is related to the tapid or if there is something else seriously wrong. It does not burn any oil it does not smoke. It runs really well so what ever it is does not seem to be causing any problems. Have had a quote to have the tapids replaced and have to wonder if it's really worth doing but then there is no garentee that fixing the tapid will fix the other tapping noise. Would appriciate any help. Sue New Zealand > I have a 1993 RVR. > A couple of months ago it developed a noisy tapid, as they say a noisy > tapid is a happy tapid. > However soon after it developed another knocking niose in the motor which > does seem to be lower down in the motor. OK, its a tappet, not tapid. The noise depends on the engine you have. Look on the center firewall ID plate for the engine type. Its either 4G93 (1.8L 16 valve) or 4G64 (2.4L) If its the 4G64 and has the spark plugs on the front side of the head, its an 8 valve engine with jet valves (useless damm things). If the plugs are in the top of the head, its the better 16 valve engine. Jet valves have a habit of sticking, and sometimes burning or jamming. I had one that jammed, broke the tappet arm and dropped the valve into the cylinder at 3000 rpm. Not good ... Have a mechanic adjust the tappets and see what happens. In either engine, the lower noise is often a failed bearing. If you can slowly raise the revs until the tapping stops, and the tapping starts when you rev the engine a bit more, its a big end bearing, and you rebuild or replace the engine. A competent mechanic should be able to sort this out. Stewart DIBBS Hi Stewart Many thanks for the reply and the correction on spelling. Should not do emails late at night. Don't like the sound of the tappet dropping. The rattle does sound as if it's getting worse. Our RVR motor is the 2.4L. Re the lower noise. It will only do it fisrt thing in the morning when I first start the car. I can drive a few K's stop leave the car sitting all day then start it up and it won't make the noise again. If it was a big end bearing would it not be making a noise all the time? Someone suggested that it could be the silent drive shaft which has a belt, you can remove the belt to disconnect the silent shaft. Have you heard of this? My RVR by the way is a permanent 4X4. When I first start the car the tapping starts and as you say slowly rev it and the noise will start again however once it's hot it's fine. The other strange thing with it is it won't do it every time. For instance I started the car the last two mornings no noise even the tappet was quiet. However when I started it last Sunday morning the tappet rattle and the other noise were there. You have helped to confirm my fears that it is a serious problem. have been quoted over $2,000NZ that's without labour to have the motor replaced and even getting it repaired would cost about the same. Think I'm better to get shot of it no point in spending good money on something that could only end up giving more trouble in the future. However having said that with all the problems that Mitsubishi are having here in NZ at present I may not be able to give it away. Many thanks for taking the time to reply. Regards Sue NZ > Our RVR motor is the 2.4L. > Re the lower noise. > It will only do it fisrt thing in the morning when I first start the car. > I can drive a few K's stop leave the car sitting all day then start it up > and it won't make the noise again. > If it was a big end bearing would it not be making a noise all the time? Yes it would, so its likely NOT a big end. I have 93 AWD Summit 3 door wagon, effectively the same as your RVR. Two issues come to mind: 1. Your RVR should have the 16v engine, and it has hydraulic tappets. These have a habit of getting noisy, and the cure is to replace the noisy tappet(s). Its not hard, and does not require the dismantling of the engine. But see below. 2. The lower noise is the problem to diagnose. If you have never changed the cam and balance shaft belt, its time to look at that area. This involves a) taking off the upper and lower engine front covers. This is reasonably easily done with the engine in the car, so don't let ANYONE tell you otherwise. You also have to take off the front pulley (4 M8 bolts, NOT the main crank bolt). These pulleys have a common problem, in that they are in two parts bonded together with a rubber anti-vibration ring. The two parts tend to separate after a while, and causes vibration, and often chews up alternator belts. This may be part of even all of your problem, esspecially as the noise is intermitttant. Look for misaligned belts or damage to the lower front cover. I've just replaced the front pulley on the 4G63 DOHC in my 93 Summit/Lancer coupe: symptom was a rattling or tinkling sound, and belt squeal. Pulleys can't be repaired. b) remove the belt tensioner bearings and check for wear or roughness. Replace if necessary. c) check the waterpump. If its the original or there's any trace of roughness, replace it. (In Canada a pump is about $40) d) install new balance and cam belt. e) ENSURE THAT THE BELT ALIGNMENT PROCESS AS REQUIRED BY MITSUBISHI is followed when the belts are installed. Its NOT possible to "mark" the belts and sprockets and get it right. The crank, balance shaft and oil pump have to aligned. If it all goes back together and the engine vibrates like mad, it been done wrong, even if the timing is correct. Assuming you have this done, ensure that the mechanic knows the correct procedure, and can explain it to you, because if he gets wrong, he's going to have to do it again, on his dime. What does this cost? Here in Canada, it cost me around C$430 including two belts, two tensioner bearings and a waterpump and about three hours labour. If you need a front pulley, you may have to get a new one unless you can find one at a wrecker. In NZ with your low $, perhaps 600 - 700 for the lot (I'm guessing here). Stewart DIBBS www.vysor.com/lancerproject Stew, do you or do you know of a documented (with pictures) timing belt replacement. I have purchased a book from the auto parts store. However, the book does not have enough pictures etc. Anyway do you know of anything available? Thx. > > Our RVR motor is the 2.4L. > > Re the lower noise. [quoted text clipped - 50 lines] > Stewart DIBBS > www.vysor.com/lancerproject Hi Stewart, Many thanks again for replying. Had the garage check the cam. The outer case has a date stamp on it which according to them means the cam belt has been changed. I contacted a local parts importer today to find out the price of another motor. $850.00NZ. I was surprised thought it would have been a lot more but then I have to add labour costs on top of that. I need to look at which way to go. Spending big bucks on repairs and could still end up with a motor that could give problems or go for another motor and get it over and done with. At present the other motor looks like the best deal. Depending on a few things such as is it a complete motor or do I need to rat things off mine. How compatable is the other motor. It does not take much to have just one small thing slightly different that could end up costing more money. Of to the other end of the Island tomorrow so have the weekend to think about it. Kind regards Sue NZ >the price of another motor $850.00NZ. Have the mechanic check the crank pulleyas I described. If thats ALL it is, is a really simple job, as the cam belts apparently don't need doing. The belts and idler bearings should be checked just in case. The pulley is about $150 I think. Stewart DIBBS Hi Stewart, Many thanks again for the reply. Have done as you suggested above. All seems well with the pullies belts etc. However a new niose started the other morning. Yup a new one. It is now pinking really bad. Turns out while hubby had the RVR he put in the 96 octain petrol I use 98. It didn't like the cheap stuff one bit. Hence it has carboned up the motor. The garage is going to put some stuff in to clean it out. But interesting to note they discovered it had the wrong spark plugs, the idle was far to advanced way to high so they have knocked it back. Contacted a friend of a friend who works for a company where I can get parts for half the price. The first thing he said when we rang to get a price on the tappets was oh no you haven't got one of those have you. Didn't like the sound of that. Any way going to get the tappets and get them replaced then get shot of it. Looking at another one would you believe. 1995 1800cc auto, I need an auto as I have a disabled left leg, 47,000K's on the clock RVR but not a permanent 4X4. No difference to mine, well can't see any difference just a later model and less K's. Thanks again for your help Sue In a cold NZ is the engine a gdi i have similar problems cheers Stu > I have a 1993 RVR. > A couple of months ago it developed a noisy tapid, as they say a noisy [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > Sue > New Zealand Hi Stuart, Not to sure. I will have a look in the morning to see what it has on the engine number. I think it has some figues before the numbers. Ours is a Jap import. Of all the imports we have owned this is the first lemon we have bought. I wouldn't mind going back to the RVR as I find it the best for access. Being disabled the RVR is just the right hight for me only thing is I don't have a lot of faith in the motors now. From what people have been telling me the RVR does not have a good reputation motor wise and everyone is trying to put me off getting another one. I am told the best type to get for a relibale motor is Nissan but they don't have one that is right for me either to big or to low. I don't need a 4X4 just something that is easy for me to get in and out off. The Mitsi so far has been the best design in that respect. Regards Sue In a very cold NZ Hi to everyone, Just to let you know the ongoing saga of my RVR. Think I mentioned we discovered a new noise. They decided it was pinking. So got some expencive stuff to clean out the carbon. Did that, still pinking. I had to go to another town not far from me and thought I would call into a garage there who are Mitsi dealers. Took the guy for a ride and he agreed it was still pinking. He decided it was the computer. So left the car with them Monday. Called in today to see if they had heard any news on the computer which had to be sent away. When I walked into their garage here was the car up on jacks with the bonnet up. He said when they started the car up on Monday to start working on it they heard a noise, like a tapping noise. They lifted the bonnet to have a listen. To cut a long story short. They took off the front manifold and discovered one of the bolts was broken hence it was leaking. The gasket is burnt out. They have replaced the bolt just have to put it back together. Touching wood my problem is solved. But how the heck would a bolt get broken. You would have to put a lot of preasure on one to break it by hand. They are also going to put some stuff in that is supposed to help the tapid. Will see if that works before doing anything else. So the morral of this story is if your having problems take it to the dealers not any old garage. well I hope it's fixed will know tomorrow will let you know if that's fixed it. Many thanks to everyone for suggestions. Regards Sue I had a similar problem with my Nissan Pulsar, 1997 model. We replaced the timing chain but the problem was still there. We were thinking it was the shims (tapids) but discovered it was the WATERPUMP! If you suspect pulleys, try removing the belt which drives the water pump and see if the noise is not there. |
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