Hey Rao

I don't have practical experience with Nissan window controls, but I do have
a schematic for the window control for your car. Maybe the following can
help you isolate where it is coming from.

One this particular schematic, all windows are controlled by 'window
amplifiers', which must be a little more than a relay because the main
controller talks to these controllers by means of a dedicated data link to
each one. They call it 'data link', but I am not sure what kind of data it
would need to send (window up/windows down/power off). Seems to me sending
asynchronous data is overkill and overcomplex, but maybe the engineers at
Nissan thought it was cool to try - who knows.

On  each controller, it has two white/red - one is power, the other is
'lock' - may want to make sure you get power before you start. Not sure what
the 'lock' signal is supposed to look like (one would assume 12V when
unlocked) but maybe see if it changes when you press the 'window lockout'
button on the main controller. The black wire is ground on all controllers
so make sure you measure power against this wire - this way you know you are
getting power for sure..
I would imagine that the problem lies between these three wires - why would
a local switch need the data link, right.
Maybe the wires between the controller and the motor are bad - be sure to
check those.

But in case this data link is somehow always needed for local control, on
the passenger side front, the 'data' comes on green/white. On the passenger
rear, the data comes in on Green/Red. Once you determine that all power
looks good, you could swap those two wires on the main controller to see if
the problem moves to the other window.
If the problem moves, one would imagine that the main controller is bad. If
it doesn't move, something must be wrong with the windows controller or the
wiring between the motor/controller.

Hope this is of use to you.
Remco

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