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Car Forum / Nissan / Nissan Maxima / May 2004

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help! 97 Maxima problem

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augustsea - 01 May 2004 19:16 GMT
My 97 maxima got a Check engine light on, then do a onboard Diagnostic
display code 0903. Leave the car overnight, the battery die two days
later(did't work on the car). Jump start and check engine light is
off. Drive it to recharge and test. Suddenly the ABS, Brake, battery
light is on. the light is on when engine go beyond 1500 RPM and is off
when idle. Yesterday do the 0903 (translate to P0446 EVAP canister
vent value circuit valve fail) procedure as the manual. Today the
battery dead again. Should be able to start and drive, but I am
concern maybe some short circuit drained the battery.
What happend to my car!? Is it just a bad battery or some problem need
a overhaul in the circuit loop?
Jim - 01 May 2004 19:39 GMT
> My 97 maxima got a Check engine light on, then do a onboard Diagnostic
> display code 0903. Leave the car overnight, the battery die two days
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> What happend to my car!? Is it just a bad battery or some problem need
> a overhaul in the circuit loop?

I think your alternator is failing. The ABS/BRAKE/BATT lights all on
indicate low voltage.
CW - 02 May 2004 00:34 GMT
>>I think your alternator is failing. The ABS/BRAKE/BATT lights all on
>indicate low voltage.

I agree.  If you are driving and the symptoms happen, you are really
talking about the alternator.  You can even disconnect the battery
after the car has started and you won't have any problem.

Please check to see if your alternator is among those 97-98 Maxima's
that were recalled--just visit your local dealer with a vin number.
They will actually install a new alternator!

CW
James M. Blaschak - 02 May 2004 16:39 GMT
---snip---

> talking about the alternator.  You can even disconnect the battery after
> the car has started and you won't have any problem.

Yes, you will have problems if you disconnect the battery while the engine
is running.  Whenever the engine is revved up, the charging system
produces unregulated voltage, which will set DTCs and fry anything that's
turned on, like the engine control module.
augustsea - 03 May 2004 04:23 GMT
Thanks for answering my question.
Some updates, I replace a Die Hard battery from sears which gives 660
CCA. Put it on, still die the next day. Did a test by the book on the
EVAP vent contol. Test comes out OK. Now I might be looking into the
Alternator. can anyone give me some suggestion? Thanks.

> ---snip---
>
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> produces unregulated voltage, which will set DTCs and fry anything that's
> turned on, like the engine control module.
Jim - 04 May 2004 04:08 GMT
> Thanks for answering my question.
> Some updates, I replace a Die Hard battery from sears which gives 660
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
>>produces unregulated voltage, which will set DTCs and fry anything that's
>>turned on, like the engine control module.

Let it idle with the headlights on and put a meter across the battery.
<13V and it's new alt time.
augustsea - 05 May 2004 16:54 GMT
Just tested it, turn out not a bad ATL...then what's next?
Just wonder if a dealer has some systematic approach for this kind of problem?
> > Thanks for answering my question.
> > Some updates, I replace a Die Hard battery from sears which gives 660
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> Let it idle with the headlights on and put a meter across the battery.
> <13V and it's new alt time.
James M. Blaschak - 06 May 2004 04:48 GMT
> Just tested it, turn out not a bad ATL...then what's next? Just wonder if
> a dealer has some systematic approach for this kind of problem? Jim

Exactly how was it tested?  The voltage test with the lights on and engine
idling doesn't measure the maximum output of the generator.

You need to find out how many amperes the generator is capable of
producing.  Get a Sun VAT-40, put the amp probe on the generator
output wire (with the arrow pointing away from the generator), connect the
big clamps to the battery posts, make sure the ammeter is reading the
middle (0-150A, if memory serves) scale, start the engine, increase rpm to
2500, and crank the load knob to the right while watching the voltage and
amperage meters.  Keep increasing the load until the voltage drops to
about 12.2 volts.

On a car like a Maxima, you should get 80 or more amperes before the
voltage drops below 12.2 volts, but check the specification to be certain.
If you're not within 80 percent of spec, you have a problem. Check the
cheap stuff first, like engine ground connections.

Some generators are controlled by the engine control module, and a bad ECM
ground can cause the generator to malfunction.

While you have the VAT-40 connected, twist the selector knob and check
for A/C pulses, in case the diodes are damaged, usually a result of
connecting jumper cable backwards momentarily.  
Richard Tomkins - 01 May 2004 23:42 GMT
Murphy got you, that darn guy.

Cold weather is the hardest thing on batteries. Most of the time batteries
just die suddenly as you have experienced. Here in Canada I buy new
batteries at Total Battery for my vehicles, and many other things as well.
The Nissan fit battery I bought last year for the Maxima was $35.00 dollars
cheaper than the dealer, but I got 75 more cranking amps in the same size. A
better battery by far.
Last time my brake and battery light came on, the system was not charging
properly, one of the alternator brushes was worn. The lights would go out
above 2000 RPM and after 2 days, never came back on, so it fixed itself.

SO if the battery so dead and not charging, I guess that could explain the
lights being on.

rtt

> My 97 maxima got a Check engine light on, then do a onboard Diagnostic
> display code 0903. Leave the car overnight, the battery die two days
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> What happend to my car!? Is it just a bad battery or some problem need
> a overhaul in the circuit loop?
 
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