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Car Forum / Nissan / Nissan Maxima / May 2004Nisstech: 97 GXE Stalling - round 2???
Nisstech, I had posted about this problem this over 6 months ago, the problem had gone away for a while, but has resurfaced.. you had said at the time you knew what the fix was... can you help a guy out!! Original thread can be found at: "http://tinyurl.com/3eaw2" OR "http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&safe=off&threadm=f24567af.030 8280721.578e2482%40posting.google.com&rnum=8&prev=/&frame=on" Friends 97 GXE, 80k: While pulling into a driveway, or reversing slowly and then taking your foot of the accelerator to tap the brakes, the car will intermittently stall. Sometimes it is hard to get started again, i.e. will start, but stall immediately. It doesn't happen at speeds over 30mph - and seems to only happen when the accelerator is released i.e. either to coast or to brake. Here are some data points. 1) I cleaned the throttle-body (it wasn't very dirty when I checked it - I but I cleaned it anyway). 2) I Replaced PCV valve 3) I Checked air-filter (was clean) 4) I Checked basic operation of IACV - I had the car idling (at about 650-700 RPM - auto tranny) - set fan to high with A/C on - the idle dipped and then climbed back up to about 750 and held steady. Switched off A/C - idle dropped to 650 and stayed steady. (Repeated this several times - could not get the car to stall). 5) He had a 60k service done at a dealer - new plugs, new fuel filter... may have done radiator/tranny fluid changes - but I don't think that is relevant for what is going on here. 6) He ran a bottle of techron through the fuel system. The car ran fine for about 6 months and now the problem has resurfaced... What do you all think? My bet would be to replace the Mass Air Flow Sensor and possibly the Coolant Temp Sensor (unlikely but cheap $25). The MAF new is about 400-500$, remanufactured about $250 > Nisstech, > [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > OR "http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&safe=off&threadm=f24567a f.0308280721.578e2482%40posting.google.com&rnum=8&prev=/&frame=on" > Friends 97 GXE, 80k: > [quoted text clipped - 30 lines] > > What do you all think? > My bet would be to replace the Mass Air Flow Sensor and possibly the Coolant > Temp Sensor (unlikely but cheap $25). The MAF new is about 400-500$, > remanufactured about $250 Roger - thanks for the suggestions... my buddy just emailed me this morning with some more behavior/symptoms: "The car did stall on me yesterday and gave some trouble again this morning. It happens either when I am just cruising (20- 40) without my foot on the accelerator or the break and then when I pressed the acc. then it "stuttured". It also happened when I was at a stop sign and as soon as I hit the accelerator it "stuttered". Also, as I was approaching the stop sign and slowing down to 0 miles, it stalled after which it stuttered as I mention above." Does this still map to possible ECTS or MAF issues? I hope I'm not wrong but I had to replace my MAF Sensor on my 97 Maxima because it was going looney on me. The car would surge when I wasn't even pressing the accelerator and acted like I was giving it gas when I really wasn't when approaching to stop. The Check Engine light NEVER came on. Your problems sound are like the inverse of these. I did some research online and Maximas have had plenty of MAF sensor problems. I previously had a problem with the car dying when you tried to start it cold. It would start and the RPMS would crash to 0 in a couple of seconds if you weren't giving it gas. When warm, it would be fine. That got fixed by the coolant temp sensor. Honestly I think it is the MAF, and it's easy to replace yourself. If you take it to a mechanic they will do some part swapping at your expense til they hit the problem, probably will start at a full tuneup first ;) I hope this helps, but I bet it's one of those damn sensors! > > My bet would be to replace the Mass Air Flow Sensor and possibly the Coolant > > Temp Sensor (unlikely but cheap $25). The MAF new is about 400-500$, [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > Does this still map to possible ECTS or MAF issues? > I previously had >a problem with the car dying when you tried to start it cold. It would start >and the RPMS would crash to 0 in a couple of seconds if you weren't giving >it gas. When warm, it would be fine. That got fixed by the coolant temp >sensor. Honestly I think it is the MAF, and it's easy to replace yourself. Oh wierd! I have had the EXACT same problem. Often, I'll start it when cold (totally freezing, like around 50 or 60 degrees) and it will die if I don't give it gas. I had thought it a FI issue, and recently put some Sea Foam in the tank. I also recently had my fuel filter replaced (at 60,000 miles). How does one check for the coolant temp sensor? The only thing I see in my Haynes manual is the coolant thermostat. They say to put it in some water and check when it opens. (I did notice also that the picture of the Maxima engine has a Delco battery. Too funny!) Testing it probably isn't worth the trouble. It's $25 at autozone and probably in stock. They go bad so often they should be replaced after this many years anyway. It's located on the drivers side of the engine on the side near the front under that black wire bundle IIRC. Just put a long socket and extension and unscrew it. Make sure the engine is cool or you'll have coolant shooting out. If you feel like testing it, buy a good repair manual somewhere. If you buy the new part, you'll find it easier. > > I previously had > >a problem with the car dying when you tried to start it cold. It would start [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > (I did notice also that the picture of the Maxima engine has a Delco > battery. Too funny!) > Does this still map to possible ECTS or MAF issues? Sounds like MAF to me and the ONLY reliable test is to replace with a kinown good unit. Many times flakey ones will set no codes nor will they fail any of the "tests" in the factory manual.  SignatureSteve http://www.atlantaracing.com UPDATE: The dealer had the car for 3 days - stalled a few times on them. Their diagnosis was that the base idle was too low - so they reset that and said it should take care of the problem... I'm not convinced... time will tell. Thanks for all your help. Nirav |
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