Car Forum / Nissan / Nissan Maxima / June 2004
Idles Rough
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Bruce - 23 May 2004 02:17 GMT Hi,
This is my first time on this group...and I know it's for Maximas, but perhaps my problem is generic enough that you may be able to help. Thanks.
I've got a 1997 Altima GXE with 65,000 miles. It's begun idling very rough at 1000 rpm, and extremely rough at 750 rpm, where it usually idles. I've replaced the easy stuff, cap, rotor, and plugs, but the problem persists. I'm about to replace the fuel filter, but I doubt that's the problem. I'm beginning to consider the fuel injectors.
At $100 apiece, I'd like to first try to clean them. Is there an additive, or a mechanical way to clean them? Or are the additives just snake oil, and a temporary fix? Is mechanically cleaning them something I should attempt myself, or best left to a shop?
My dad had his 1996 Maxima's injectors replaced ($1000) for rough performance at all speeds, and sometimes non-starting, but it still has the same problem, so I'm leary as to spending a lot only to find that the injectors is not the problem in my Altima.
One other thing, the check engine light went on a few months ago. The car is driven very little. Is there a way for me to find out the code and what the code means?
Any other ideas as to what may be causing my rough idle at low rpm? Other than that, the car runs fine.
Sincerely, Bruce
Roger - 23 May 2004 06:11 GMT You need to decide whether it is due to something not working right in the engine which should cause decreased performance or if it's due to a bad mount for the engine or trans.
> Hi, > [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > Sincerely, > Bruce Roger - 23 May 2004 06:15 GMT If you think it's an injector issue, the engine would run REALLY rough if one of them was not working. Best way to test for a failed injector is to track it down to the cylinder by pulling off the ignition wires until you hit one that causes no change. If one of the injectors was bad the car would run very bad. You should try to pull the code to see what set off the check engine light, (free at autozone).
> Hi, > [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > Sincerely, > Bruce Bruce - 23 May 2004 06:21 GMT > If you think it's an injector issue, the engine would run REALLY rough > if one of them was not working. Best way to test for a failed injector [quoted text clipped - 35 lines] >> Sincerely, >> Bruce Thanks for the reply. I hadn't thought of a bad engine mount. We don't have Autozones here, but I will definitely track down the check engine code.
Thanks again, Bruce
BuddyWh - 23 May 2004 13:45 GMT There are several good injector cleaners... many people (myself included) have had very good results using Techron. It also works well with combustion chamber and valve deposits, and is recommended by BMW.
While it's most effectively used periodically to remove light deposits and varnish build-up, before it becomes a problem, you could try this: add two bottles to a full tank and burn off that tank, then run one bottle in the next tank. I had good luck doing this on my Rodeo when I had rough idle and weak low end at about 80K miles, and I've read where several others have too. Even if it doesn't solve the problem, it does no harm and is not very expensive before going on to other, more expensive remedies.
There are some shops that use special equipment to run cleaning solvents through the fuel rail and injectors while still on the car. That can be effective, but serious contamination means you'll need a true injector cleaning. This means removing the ejectors from the engine and cleaning them in fairly strong solvent, using pressure and ultrasonic baths, then checking the spray pattern and flow. I'd try to get a shop to do this before I'd consider the expense of replacement.
These aren't just snake-oil... they really are effective within each remedy's abilities. But if the problem is mechanical or electrical then any kind of cleaning will do nothing.
BuddyWh
>Hi, > [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] >Sincerely, >Bruce Bruce - 23 May 2004 20:32 GMT Hi,
I really appreciate your thorough response about fuel injectors. I'm from the (really) old school of carburetors, and am not familiar with fuel injectors. I did some reading on them yesterday, though, so I'm learning more, a little at a time. I should educate myself on them, as all my cars now have fuel injectors.
I took the car out this morning, and except for the rough idle, it ran just fine. Sometimes the idle stays above 1000 rpm, and sometimes it drops to about 750 rpm. If the idle stays above 1000 rpm it's fine, but when it drops below that, it's rough, hot or cold. I'm going to look at the specs. and see what idle should be. Perhaps it's supposed to be 1000 rpm, and is dropping for some reason. The problem is that I never drive the car, so I don't know what's 'normal'. My daughter drives it primarily on very short trips to school and it never warms up. I tend to feel and hear developing problems before anyone else, but with the girls in my family, I'm usually informed about a problem after it's been around for a while. Not complaining, just stating the dynamics at my house.
Thanks to Roger's advice, I did locate an Autozone in my area, where they USED to test diagnostic trouble codes for free. Now, the state of California, and only the state of California, forbids them to do this for free. So, they don't even do it for a charge, but they will loan you the equipment for a deposit of $180 (it's $90 to buy it outright). I borrowed it, and asked for some advice on it's use, but they said they weren't even allowed to give advice. However, the fellow was nice enough to break that law for me. <g>
Hope the California legislature doesn't find out that I got some free advice. Sorry, but I feel a rant coming on about our lawmakers.
I'm going to check the diagnostics codes and go from there.
Thanks again, Bruce
> There are several good injector cleaners... many people (myself > included) have had very good results using Techron. It also works well [quoted text clipped - 56 lines] >>Sincerely, >>Bruce Bruce - 23 May 2004 23:48 GMT > Hi, > [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > but the problem persists. >BIG SNIP
> One other thing, the check engine light went on a few months ago. The > car is driven very little. Is there a way for me to find out the code > and what the code means? OK, I borrowed an Actron ODB II Auto Scanner, model CP9135, to see what made the check engine light come on. I get code P0304, with the description Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected. All other systems, fuel, O2, etc, tested fine.
Hoping that this would be a simple ignition wire problem, I bench tested the number 4 wire, and it is fine. I tested all other wires to be sure my testing method was ok, and they also tested fine.
I put the wires back on, and then pulled number 4 from the plug head, and held it close to the valve cover. A very consistent and steady spark jumped to the valve cover, and there was no noticeable difference as to engine idle. In other words, the car did not idle any rougher with the number 4 disconnected.
I am now stumped. With a number 4 cylinder misfire detected, I expected the plug wire to be bad, yet a steady spark jumped from the wire's end to the ground (valve cover). I can't swap wires between plugs to test, because the numbe 4 wire is the shortest wire, and won't reach any other plug.
Also, why is it that with a steady spark observed, there's no difference whether the plug wire is or is not connected to the plug? If I'm getting a steady spark, what else could be causing a misfire? Not timing, since the other 3 plugs are firing fine. Not a fuel problem, because the scanner detected none, and the plug would fire anyway, fuel problem or not.
I'm really at a loss at this point, and I hate to turn the thing over to a shop at this time. I'll have to think about this some more, and hope that someone may have an idea.
Sincerely, Bruce
Bruce - 23 May 2004 23:59 GMT >> Hi, >> [quoted text clipped - 46 lines] > Sincerely, > Bruce I did some googling. See this:
http://www.alldata.com/service_provider/techrx/2002/200201212b.html
E. Meyer - 24 May 2004 01:10 GMT On 5/23/04 5:48 PM, in article Xns94F2A0D57A51Cparcxmannetscapenet@204.127.204.17, "Bruce" <parcxman@netscape.net> wrote:
>> Hi, >> [quoted text clipped - 39 lines] > scanner detected none, and the plug would fire anyway, fuel problem or > not. If there's no difference with the plug connected or not, and there is spark, then the only other two choices are no fuel or no air for combustion. It sounds like a stuck injector on that cylinder (no fuel getting in).
> I'm really at a loss at this point, and I hate to turn the thing over to > a shop at this time. I'll have to think about this some more, and hope > that someone may have an idea. > > Sincerely, > Bruce Bruce - 24 May 2004 01:31 GMT Yes, it sure does sound like either no air or fuel, since there is spark. What's got me is there is a check on the scanner for fuel system, and it checks out ok.
I'm now checking this:
http://www.alldata.com/service_provider/techrx/2002/200201212b.html
which is consisent with code P0304, Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected.
Thanks for the reply, Bruce
> If there's no difference with the plug connected or not, and there is > spark, then the only other two choices are no fuel or no air for [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] >> Sincerely, >> Bruce NissTech - 24 May 2004 02:36 GMT Awww C'mon guy's .
Y'all are better that this.
This is guy has provided everything you need to diagnose his problem.
Stay tuned kiddies.
Will the mighty Bruce get the assistance he needs........ maybe ?
Will BuddyWh be able to figure it out, so far he is as cold as ice with his dirty injector theory....maybe not
Tune in next time...
Same Bat time... Same Bat channel
> Yes, it sure does sound like either no air or fuel, since there is spark. > What's got me is there is a check on the scanner for fuel system, and it [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > >> Sincerely, > >> Bruce Steve T - 24 May 2004 04:38 GMT > Awww C'mon guy's . What?
There can't be anything wrong with the car, the computer/scan tool says it's all OK! :-)
 Signature Steve
http://www.atlantaracing.com
BuddyWh - 27 May 2004 01:30 GMT >Awww C'mon guy's . > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] >Will BuddyWh be able to figure it out, so far he is as cold as ice with his >dirty injector theory....maybe not Actually... I never offered any diagnostic theories as to what his problem could be... I was just answering his question about injector cleaning. I'm as curious as anyone as to what could be wrong....
let's see.... fuel... spark.... timing... compression hmmmm
>Tune in next time... > [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] >> >> Sincerely, >> >> Bruce Steve T - 24 May 2004 04:36 GMT .
> Also, why is it that with a steady spark observed, there's no difference > whether the plug wire is or is not connected to the plug? If I'm getting > a steady spark, what else could be causing a misfire? Not timing, since > the other 3 plugs are firing fine. Not a fuel problem, because the > scanner detected none, and the plug would fire anyway, fuel problem or > not. A scanner can't tell if there is a mechanical problem with an injector. I've seen many cars that run like crap but the computer says everything is OK. Have you pulled the plugs yet? Does it have NGK plugs or something else?
 Signature Steve
http://www.atlantaracing.com
Bruce - 24 May 2004 06:55 GMT > . >> [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > everything is OK. Have you pulled the plugs yet? Does it have NGK > plugs or something else? Hi, Steve...I like your sense of humor.
Yes, I have pulled the plugs and they were worn normally. The gaps were huge since the electrodes were worn. I did replace them, with the proper NGKs and gapped per the owner's manual.
I did check all spark plug holes for water, and there is none. I could also see all the piston heads, and they all looked the same. I also pulled all plugs, one at a time, and turned the engine over and then smelled for gas to see if there was any difference in smell. I was smelling to see if gas was getting to number 4, but not being burned. All smelled the same. I'm not sure what this told me, though. I exptected to smell gas in number 4.
Here's something I did try:
Remember that number 4 is misfiring. The scanner indicates this (yeah, I know the scanner can't diagnose a mechanical problem like a sticky injector, as you say) and when I pull the number 4 ignition wire off while the car is idling, there's no difference in idle. Also let it be known that since the number 4 wire is the shortest of the bunch, I can't just swap it with another, so I pulled number 3 off and put it on the number 4. Yes, I did connect the wires correctly, observing firing order. I started the car. Now I've got no number 3, so it's idling rough, but I've got a wire going to number 4. This may be the hint...when I pulled off the good number 3 wire that was connected to the number 4 plug, the idle got worse. This indicates, at least to me, that the number 4 wire is bad, even though it tests good for continuity and resistance.
The next step is to install a new set of ingition wires. They're $50 at Autozone. This seems like the next cheapest step in the elimination process. I'll do this tomorrow, unless someone has another idea.
By the way, I kind of like that scanner. I looked at some other, more expensive ones. Neat little toy. While I still have it, I may check my other cars, all of which are running fine. But, it may be like going in for a check up when you feel good...the doctor finds some little thing and wants you back for more tests. Hmmm...maybe I won't test the other cars.
I'll keep you posted.
Sincerely, Bruce
Steve T - 24 May 2004 15:47 GMT > This indicates, at least to me, that > the number 4 wire is bad, even though it tests good for continuity and > resistance. You probably missed where it's burned through the side..
 Signature Steve
http://www.atlantaracing.com
Bruce - 25 May 2004 07:44 GMT >> This indicates, at least to me, that >> the number 4 wire is bad, even though it tests good for continuity and >> resistance. > > You probably missed where it's burned through the side.. Crap. I replaced the ignition wires and problem persists. Hmmm...
Time for the Techron? I bought two bottles and I'm ready to pour it in. Yes? No?
Bruce
Steve T - 25 May 2004 08:06 GMT >>> This indicates, at least to me, that >>> the number 4 wire is bad, even though it tests good for continuity and [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > Time for the Techron? I bought two bottles and I'm ready to pour it in. > Yes? No? Now you're just guessing, just like I am but you're looking at the car! Have you checked for vaccum leaks? I doubt pour in the tank FI cleaner will fix it if it is an injector. Is that injector even clicking etc etc.
 Signature Steve
http://www.atlantaracing.com
NissTech - 25 May 2004 23:31 GMT Good Job Steve !!!
> >>> This indicates, at least to me, that > >>> the number 4 wire is bad, even though it tests good for continuity and [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > Have you checked for vaccum leaks? I doubt pour in the tank FI cleaner will > fix it if it is an injector. Is that injector even clicking etc etc. JM - 24 May 2004 21:50 GMT It may not be your biggest problem, but if you haven't replaced the PCV valve, do so. It can result in a bad idle.
JM
NissTech - 24 May 2004 23:18 GMT Ok Gang.
Here is your hint , It is 3 words long .
Lean Cylinder Missfire.
Hmmmm, Now you have to ask yourself .... Self, What causes a lean cylinder missfire?
Homework Assignment, due May 25 . 7p.m EST
What can cause a lean cylinder missfire ?
Steve T , sorry dude you are exempt from this test but feel free to answer it anyway.
Will all the brainiacks on alt.autos.maxima be able to figure out this runability condition?
Will Commissioner Gordon be able to find the Bat signal in time.
Tune in tomorrow..... Same Bat Time...... Same Bat Channel
> Hi, > [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > Sincerely, > Bruce Bruce - 25 May 2004 07:47 GMT > Ok Gang. > [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > Tune in tomorrow..... > Same Bat Time...... Same Bat Channel BIFF! BAM! SPLAT! ZOWIE!
Bruce - 25 May 2004 08:16 GMT I'll take a crack at it. Not enough fuel caused by a clogged injector?
Bruce
> Ok Gang. > [quoted text clipped - 53 lines] >> Sincerely, >> Bruce Dan - 25 May 2004 21:29 GMT > Ok Gang. > [quoted text clipped - 53 lines] >>Sincerely, >>Bruce Oooh...A test! My guess would be either a bad injector or an injector wiring/harness connection problem. If you do the ol' "screwdriver to the ear" trick does the injector on that cylinder make the typical clicking noise at idle?
NissTech - 25 May 2004 23:30 GMT Ok Class,
I know it is not 7 p.m EST but my Tampa Bay Lightning are in the Stanley Cup Finals and game 1 is tonight.
Ok here goes.
Things that can cause a lean cylinder missfire
A clogged/non working injector would definitely cause it , but it is not the case with this car.
Good answer by the way, at least you are thinking about it.
Think about this for a moment
What else can cause it .....
Lets define a lean cylinder missfire.
when the mixture of air versus fuel to a particular cylinder becomes unbalanced (more air than fuel) when the spark plug goes to ignite the mixture there is nothing to burn, the over abundance of air and depleted the fuel charge so there is no burn, hence the missfire.
so , one would next investigate a vacuum leak to that particular cylinder.
So think about this one for a while and I will check back late in the 3rd period of the hockey game
Go BOLTS !!!
> > Ok Gang. > > [quoted text clipped - 58 lines] > the ol' "screwdriver to the ear" trick does the injector on > that cylinder make the typical clicking noise at idle? Ttime - 25 May 2004 21:42 GMT I have a 95 Maxima and recently got a tune up just because it was time. The next day the car started running rough so I took it back to Pep Boys where I got the tune up and they saw nothing wrong. The condition has worsened so I took it back to Pep Boys Saturday. They checked the spark plugs and they were fine and did a diagnostic and there are no codes coming up, but they know it is something misfiring with the injection system. They said they cannot do individual tests on the 6 injectors and I would need to take it somewhere else. What should I do next. Any help is greatly apreciated.
Steve T - 26 May 2004 02:57 GMT > I have a 95 Maxima and recently got a tune up just because it was time. > The next day the car started running rough so I took it back to Pep Boys [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > system. They said they cannot do individual tests on the 6 injectors and > I would need to take it somewhere else. What should I do next. Better question what should you have done first? NEVER take a car to pepboys for service!
My guess? They used bosch platinum plugs which are useless junk..
 Signature Steve
http://www.atlantaracing.com
Ttime - 26 May 2004 04:59 GMT I should have mentioned that I am no mechanic AT ALL, so excuse me for going to a chain type of repair shop that I thought was decent. I am on this site for genuine help, not for criticism of where I have taken the car or the type of car knowledge I should of been born with. Moving along... they checked the spark plugs and they are fine and I saw them check them, so to repeat myself, what should I do next?? I am a mother of three boys and would like to know how I can fix this myself if possible. Thanks to those who want to help and maybe I won't go to Pep Boys again, so thanks for that advice.
Steve T - 26 May 2004 06:41 GMT > I should have mentioned that I am no mechanic AT ALL, so excuse me for > going to a chain type of repair shop that I thought was decent. I am on > this site for genuine help, not for criticism of where I have taken the > car or the type of car knowledge I should of been born with. Chill out, I WAS trying to advise you on the mistake you made, sorry if you can't take it the way it was meant.. We have cars that drove into those places -towed- to our shop because they killed them and can't even get them running to drive out under their own power! The tire stores are just as bad.
> Moving > along... they checked the spark plugs and they are fine and I saw them > check them, so to repeat myself, what should I do next?? Again what kind of plugs did they use? Maybe to the untrained eye they "look fine" but given the car was fine before they did this work, more than likely it has something to do with the VERY poor quality parts they sell and use. How do "they know it's misfiring due to the injection" yet don't have a clue as to what it is? This is the line they use to shift blame from themselves. They "don't do fuel injection work" so everytime they screw a car up, this is the line they are taught at training school to tell customers. You'll probably never get anywhere with these people, best bet is to find a shop that specialises in nissans and get them to look at it. The money you spent at pepboys was a waste.
 Signature Steve
http://www.atlantaracing.com
JM - 26 May 2004 20:26 GMT > I should have mentioned that I am no mechanic AT ALL, so excuse me for > going to a chain type of repair shop that I thought was decent. I am on [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > Thanks to those who want to help and maybe I won't go to Pep Boys again, > so thanks for that advice. Take the car to a Nissan dealer or Japanese specialty shop, and get them to figure out what's wrong. Or, it may be cost effective to just have them do a second tuneup instead of high-priced diagnostic time. (Someone will probably flame me for this bit of advice. It's a gamble either way.)
If it is traceable to something Pep Boys did, then contact Pep Boys' manager and tell him you want a refund or will dispute the charge. (You did charge it, didn't you? It's the only meaningful protection that you have.)
If they won't take off the charge, then follow up with your credit card company immediately. Send them a dispute, IN WRITING, include the second repair bill, and any written statement that you can wrangle from the second shop as to the problem. (It is probably also best to use the same charge card you used at the first shop.)
At least take some delight in the fact that your card company will charge Pep Boys about $25 just to review the dispute with them, whether or not it is taken off your card.
I used to work at Sears automotive department while in school. All these shops are into selling frequently questionable parts, and have just enough skill to slap them into the car.
JM
Ttime - 26 May 2004 05:09 GMT I should have mentioned that I am no mechanic AT ALL, so excuse me for going to a chain type of repair shop that I thought was decent. I am on this site for genuine help, not for criticism of where I have taken the car or the type of car knowledge I should of been born with. Moving along... they checked the spark plugs and they are fine and I saw them check them, so to repeat myself, what should I do next?? I am a mother of three boys and would like to know how I can fix this myself if possible. Thanks to those who want to help and maybe I won't go to Pep Boys again, so thanks for that advice.
NissTech - 26 May 2004 23:52 GMT Aww .. C'mon guys you don't want me to just give you the answer do you ?
That is too easy, besides you won't learn anything
Clue :
Massive Vacuum Leak @ number 4 cylinder ONLY !
> Hi, > [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > Sincerely, > Bruce Bruce - 27 May 2004 01:39 GMT Ah, don't take the fun away. <g> I was about to check around cylinder number 4 tonight and report back. I think it's a good HINT.
Been busy with computers, kids, etc at home...and haven't been able to write back from work as our news server is down (I don't care for the google news as it's incomplete).
Bruce
"NissTech" <Haywood_Jablowme@msn.com> wrote in news:Xc9tc.29434$Ol3.19796 @twister.tampabay.rr.com:
> Aww .. C'mon guys you don't want me to just give you the answer do you ? > [quoted text clipped - 36 lines] >> Sincerely, >> Bruce BuddyWh - 27 May 2004 01:45 GMT >Aww .. C'mon guys you don't want me to just give you the answer do you ? > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > >Massive Vacuum Leak @ number 4 cylinder ONLY ! Interesting... I've had some experience chasing down disconnected vacuum lines on my older cars to clear up bad idle. But how does this explain the detected misfire? This really is a question... I wonder how the computer would detect a misfire at #4 if it isn't due to something electrical.
>> Hi, >> [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] >> Sincerely, >> Bruce NissTech - 27 May 2004 02:12 GMT Ok Bruce I won't give you the answer just yet.
Tricks to finding vacuum leaks.
Use a mildly combustible spray (like carb cleaner) around the effected area when the engine is running, if the idle smoothes out you have found your leak.
I expect your diagnosis by Friday evening :-))
> >Aww .. C'mon guys you don't want me to just give you the answer do you ? > > [quoted text clipped - 42 lines] > >> Sincerely, > >> Bruce JM - 28 May 2004 06:08 GMT An EGR valve that's stuck open at idle can have the same effect as a vacuum leak. So too can the wrong PCV valve (one that flows too much air for the application), or a loose PCV hose. The rough idle in these cases is caused by "lean misfire." The fuel mixture is too lean to ignite reliably so it often misfires and fails to ignite at all. Lean misfire will show up as elevated hydrocarbon (HC) readings in the exhaustenough, in fact, to cause a vehicle to fail an emissions test.
Lots of info on lean misfires (including the above quote) at:
http://members.aol.com/carleyware/library/vacleak.htm
JM
Steve T - 28 May 2004 06:57 GMT > So too can the wrong PCV valve (one that flows too much > air for the application), I'm not so sure about that one on a FI car. This extra air is still going through the MAS so the computer would add fuel for this air. It's just bypassing the throttle plate via the crankcase. For it to lean out the engine, it has to be air that never passes over the MAS. Plus most cars have a centrally located PCV valve so even a broken hose isn't likely to -kill- one cylinder like the OP stated, nor would EGR for the same reason, it would just polute the whole engine with exhaust, not one cylinder.
Now a brake booster is another story. Most of them do attach to the intake near one hole and a leaking booster can cause a cylinder or two to go dead at idle when the brakes are applied.
 Signature Steve
http://www.atlantaracing.com
JM - 28 May 2004 17:24 GMT > I'm not so sure about that one on a FI car. This extra air is still going > through the MAS so the computer would add fuel for this air. It's just [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > near one hole and a leaking booster can cause a cylinder or two to go dead > at idle when the brakes are applied. That sounds like a good analysis to me. So we're left with, what? Leaking gasket, or injector o-ring?
JM
Steve T - 29 May 2004 01:02 GMT >> I'm not so sure about that one on a FI car. This extra air is still going >> through the MAS so the computer would add fuel for this air. It's just [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > That sounds like a good analysis to me. So we're left with, what? > Leaking gasket, or injector o-ring? Vac hose that goes near that cylinder or as I said a bad booster. Could be a blown out intake gasket, some nissans have been bad about that in the past. Might be a dead injector or as you said an injector seal? Who knows!
 Signature Steve
http://www.atlantaracing.com
NissTech - 29 May 2004 02:53 GMT The answer is here , Steve T hit it on the head .
A leaking intake manifold gasket, a common occurrence on the Altima
> >> I'm not so sure about that one on a FI car. This extra air is still going > >> through the MAS so the computer would add fuel for this air. It's just [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > a blown out intake gasket, some nissans have been bad about that in the > past. Might be a dead injector or as you said an injector seal? Who knows! Steve T - 29 May 2004 04:46 GMT > The answer is here , Steve T hit it on the head . > > A leaking intake manifold gasket, a common occurrence on the Altima I recall the old napZ engine did that quite a bit and would end up burning a valve if the owner ignored it long enough. Seen any of the altimas do that?
 Signature Steve
http://www.atlantaracing.com
Bruce - 01 Jun 2004 14:52 GMT > The answer is here , Steve T hit it on the head . > [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] >> the past. Might be a dead injector or as you said an injector seal? >> Who knows! Been gone for the weekend; missed the Friday night deadline.
Well, I guess it could be worse, but it does seem like it's a leaky manifold gasket around number 4. When I spray carb cleaner around this part of the intake manifold, the idle does smooth out, a very small amount, but it is noticeable. It's darn hard to get at this area, so perhaps the leak is on the side of the intake port that I can't reach and the fluid is being sucked around to there. While sitting in the driver's seat, the part of the port I can apply carb cleaner to is at 10 o'clock.
I've got the Haynes manual for the car, but this job looks like a knuckle-bleeder. I've got no idea how much it would cost to have it done, so at this point I'm not sure what I'm going to do.
Luckily, my registration was due mid-May, which I've gotten, but a smog check was not due this time around.
What to do, what to do...
Thanks so much to all that responded in this thread. I'll be back.
Sincerely, Bruce
Steve T - 02 Jun 2004 02:43 GMT >> The answer is here , Steve T hit it on the head . >> [quoted text clipped - 41 lines] > part of the intake manifold, the idle does smooth out, a very small > amount, but it is noticeable. Then you've found the problem...
 Signature Steve
http://www.atlantaracing.com
NissTech - 29 May 2004 00:50 GMT Well Bruce
What is you Diagnosis ?
it is 7:49 p.m EST
I'll look again in another hour
> Hi, > [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > Sincerely, > Bruce
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