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Car Forum / Nissan / Nissan Maxima / July 200491 Maxima Transmission just stopped
Hi everyone 1991 Maxima 3 liter Auto, 110 000 km on clock (70 000 miles). Up to this problem, all has been fine ... a great car! Absolutely no symptoms prior (as far as I could tell). Symptoms: Drove 20 min no problem open highway Slowed for 3 min low-speed zone Went to accelerate back to open-road speed and found I had no drive. No unusual noises. Upon stopping, I tried all gears including Reverse; absolutely no drive. Engine going well. Stopped/started engine; tried overdrive On/Off, tried the Selector Switch on Auto, Economy and Power; no go. Checked transmission oil; appeared OK. Waited 10 min and managed to go about 50 feet ... happened a number of times. Go tow in to mechanic's workshop. Checked next day when fluid cold, still no go. In fact, doesn't move an inch now. Mechanic is talking thousands to replace gearbox with reconditioned; otherwise he'll just replace torque convertor for about half this figure. He has yet to even look under car ... just his gut feeling I think. He says he's experienced with other auto transmissions, but hasn't worked on Maximas, but says no problem ... he'll just order what's needed (eg: replacement transmission or torque convertor) and fix. So I'm not very happy : ( In fact, having a little trouble believing he's not jumping to conclusions so I've spent last 2 hours on Web. Now I think I need to ask him (before ripping the thing apart!) to: Check fluid filter for blockage (is this external?) Check transmission cable for breakage Re-check fluid level What about an electrical/electronic failure stopping my request getting thru to the transmission? Are there any external solenoids which can be checked? Do these sound reasonable? I'd really like some comments/ideas as to what could be wrong and what checks or tests should be carried out. I think there are some diagnostics which can be carried out using the Selector Switch, but haven't found anything about them. What do you think? Thanks for any and every comment. I'm a real novice but would love to know more! Graeme A little more .... Wasn't "tow" to mechanic's workshop as stated ... I actually got hoisted onto a truck. Sorry for slipup ... didn't want you to think I might have made it worse by towing! > Hi everyone > [quoted text clipped - 44 lines] > > Graeme >Hi everyone > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] >unusual noises. >Upon stopping, I tried all gears including Reverse; absolutely no drive. The Haynes manual for my 93 Maxima says there are 5 possible reasons for failure: 1) Poor engine performance 2) Improper adjustments 3) hydraulic malfunctions 4) Mechanical malfunctions 5) Malfunctions in the computer or its network Prsumably you can rule out # 1 #2 only relates to shifter cable (worn bushes or broken cable). If cable was broken you would be able to feel it, if bushes were worn you would still get some gear to work According to the manual the 93 Maxima's auto transmission is controlled by a computer, I assume the 91 is the same. That being the case, you or some shop, should be able to read trouble codes from this computer using specialied diagnostic equipment. Other posters may have more specific info. Your current technician appears limited. My suggestion, have the car shipped to a Nissan dealer for diagnosis. Al Moodie. Thanks Al. I have in fact now shipped my car to a proper Nissan workshop and they'll do a proper diagnosis on Monday. I feel more comfortable with a logical problem-solving approach than the rip-the-thing-apart-and-see plan of the other mechanic (and of Steve T it seems). Graeme > >Hi everyone > > [quoted text clipped - 34 lines] > > Al Moodie. > Thanks Al. I have in fact now shipped my car to a proper Nissan workshop > and they'll do a proper diagnosis on Monday. I feel more comfortable with > a logical problem-solving approach than the rip-the-thing-apart-and-see > plan of the other mechanic (and of Steve T it seems). Graeme Some people like to make things more complex than they really are while others actually understand what is going on. Everything you (as a total novice to this) hoped was wrong (because they are cheap fixes) can't be the problem from what you wrote so why would someone, who knows what they are doing, check things that can't cause this problem? Why is it "logical problem solving" to check things that -can't- be what wrong with your car? Sure for people like you (who read up on the internet and think they know more that a professional does) I regularly have to waste their money because they demand we do this and that when I know it's not the problem. I can't get them to understand setting the timing and changing the fuel filter isn't why their car won't start in cold weather etc. Just because you read some generic things on the "misinformation super hyway" doesn't make them facts for your application. Good luck and thanks for your lame attempt at insulting me. :-)  SignatureSteve http://www.atlantaracing.com > Mechanic is talking thousands to replace gearbox with reconditioned; Sounds reasonable or get a used one. Sounds like the forward clutch or the pump has given it up. > otherwise he'll just replace torque convertor for about half this figure. Not likely the problem. > So I'm not very happy : ( No one is when their car is broken. > In fact, having a little trouble believing he's not jumping to conclusions Why? He probably checked the fluid, saw if was full and the shift linkage is moving but nothing happens. > so I've spent last 2 hours on Web. And he's spend years working on this kind of thing 40 hours a week. > Now I think I need to ask him (before > ripping the thing apart!) to: > Check fluid filter for blockage (is this external?) That's not the problem. Even -if- it was, the internals of the transmission are coming apart to stop the filter up so it still needs the transmission replaced. This filter blockage could happen on very old american cars with paper filters, these cars don't use that type of filter, they use a screen. > Check transmission cable for breakage It quit while you were driving so this can't be it. I've never seen a japanese shift cable break. > Re-check fluid level Why? It's been checked several times already. > What about an electrical/electronic failure stopping my request getting > thru to the transmission? It would go into "fail safe" which is second gear only mode. > Are there any external solenoids which can be checked? You're dreaming.. :-) > Do these sound reasonable? No. > I'm a real novice but > would love to know more! Which is why you shouldn't question someone who isn't a novice. If you don't trust him, take it somewhere else. Think about how you'd feel if: you -are- a professional at your job and someone who is totally clueless about what you do for a living starts telling you how to do your job? You're going to tell me you wouldn't feel a little insulted? This guy knows everything you've found on the web and to start questioning his ability to diagnose your car is insulting at best. Maybe he wouldn't care but I'm sure he'd at least think you're being a jerk to question him about basic stuff like this. Again if you don't think he has enough sense to know what a novice found on the internet in a couple of hours, take it somewhere else for a second opinion. SignatureSteve http://www.atlantaracing.com I might be a little late, BUT, I have one suggestion for you... Somewhere on the web, whether it be from a search engine or maxima.org, there are instuctions for a sequence of actions to perform to get your maxima into transmission diagnostics mode. It tells you any error codes the transmissions computer has stored by blinking the Power/Comfort selector switch lights a certain pattern. I was having shifting problems, and by doing this, the tranny computer said it was the solenoid pressure sensors (I brought it to AAMCO to be fixed, and after arguing with them for 3 days, they finnaly agreed there was a problem, which I paid 550 to get fixed, and it NOTHING to help the problem, lol) I can't tell you where these mystical instructions are, but from what i remember its an extremely long sequence of button pushing and key turning. Best of luck, I think you'd agree with me that 5 speed manual would have been better... I have the sequence from the '92 Service Manual for the RE4F02A transmission - VG30 engine. I think this is the same as '91. The '92 SE added VE30 engine with new transmission. 1. Start Engine and warm to normal operating temperature. 2. Turn off engine 3. Set A/T mode switch to AUTO (not POWER or COMFORT) 4 Set overdrive switch ON 5. Move selector to P 6. Turn key ON (but don't start) 7. Does POWER light come on for 2 seconds? NO go to Diag 1- Check Control Unit power source. 8. Turn key OFF 9. Move selector to D (use shift lock release) 10. Set overdrive OFF 11. Turn key ON (but don't start) 12. Move selector to 2 13. Set overdrive ON 14. Move selector to 1 15. Set overdrive OFF 16. Depress accelerator fully and release 17. Check POWER lamp. There will be reference signal followed by 10 flashes All short - goodness #1 long - revolution sensor #2 - speed sensor #3 - throttle sensor #4 - shift solenoid A #5 - shift solenoid B #6 - timing solenoid #7 - lock-up solenoid #8 - fluid temperature sensor #9 - engine rev signal circuit #10 - line pressure solenoid All long - battery As I recall these will repeat. There is also a Symptom Chart "Vehicle will not run in any range". Probable causes, in order - 1. Fluid level 2. Control linkage 3. Line pressure 4. Line pressure solenoid The rest must be done with the transmission removed 5. Band servo position 6. Oil pump 7. High clutch 8. One way clutch 9. Low clutch 10. Torque converter 11. Parking components > I might be a little late, BUT, I have one suggestion for you... Somewhere > on the web, whether it be from a search engine or maxima.org, there are [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > Best of luck, I think you'd agree with me that 5 speed manual would have > been better... Well thanks for this. I couldn't find sequence on Web so had garage do the checks. It turned out to be a mechanical failure ... something like "hardeened bearing failure" so the car sold to wrecker. Just not worth the money repairing (even 2nd hand transmission at NZD$1500 installed). As I got $1500 from wrecker, I would have needed to sell going Maxima for $3000 which is in the high price range for this model. So after doing sums, just scrapped. Have a 2000 Camry now and I think it's just great! Graeme > I have the sequence from the '92 Service Manual for the RE4F02A > transmission - VG30 engine. [quoted text clipped - 62 lines] > > Best of luck, I think you'd agree with me that 5 speed manual would have > > been better... I'm agreeing with Steve at Hotlanta Racing. I think you're tranny's shot. Sounds like what happened to my 90. At this point, it's time for a replacement or have this one rebuilt. I had mine rebuilt here in Plano, TX to the tune of $1500. He replaced basically everything internal and now it runs like new. Chris 90 & 94 GXE's I might be a little late, BUT, I have one suggestion for you... Somewhere on the web, whether it be from a search engine or maxima.org, there are instuctions for a sequence of actions to perform to get your maxima into transmission diagnostics mode. It tells you any error codes the transmissions computer has stored by blinking the Power/Comfort selector switch lights a certain pattern. I was having shifting problems, and by doing this, the tranny computer said it was the solenoid pressure sensors (I brought it to AAMCO to be fixed, and after arguing with them for 3 days, they finnaly agreed there was a problem, which I paid 550 to get fixed, and it NOTHING to help the problem, lol) I can't tell you where these mystical instructions are, but from what i remember its an extremely long sequence of button pushing and key turning. Best of luck, I think you'd agree with me that 5 speed manual would have been better... > I might be a little late, BUT, I have one suggestion for you... Somewhere > on the web, whether it be from a search engine or maxima.org, there are > instuctions for a sequence of actions to perform to get your maxima into > transmission diagnostics mode. The deal is his has just stopped working altogether. On all the nissan automatics I've worked with, they do -something- even if the computer isn't plugged in which is why thinking it's something electrical isn't likely the cause. Shifting problems? Sure it could be something electronic but to just suddenly stop pulling is a mechanical problem. SignatureSteve http://www.atlantaracing.com You're probably right Steve. Fluid is clean and trans to be sent away to determine what's wrong. Pump maybe. Thought you'd like to know. > > I might be a little late, BUT, I have one suggestion for you... Somewhere > > on the web, whether it be from a search engine or maxima.org, there are [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > cause. Shifting problems? Sure it could be something electronic but to just > suddenly stop pulling is a mechanical problem. > You're probably right Steve. Fluid is clean and trans to be sent away to > determine what's wrong. Pump maybe. Thought you'd like to know. Thanx and you really should reconsider your opinion of the other mechanic. As I said he probably has the experience to be able to tell when it is a mechanical problem without -wasteing- a bunch of time/money checking things it can't be. SignatureSteve http://www.atlantaracing.com > Hi everyone > > 1991 Maxima 3 liter Auto, 110 000 km on clock (70 000 miles). I see you're from New Zealand. Is your Maxima a used japanese import? It's pretty unlikely a 13 year old car would have travelled only 110,000km. It's probably done double that and had the odometer wound back, which would explain the transmission dying at this point in time. Actually no, we bought it 1993 at 30 000 km. But you're right ... a bit unusual. Since it's NZ$3500 to $4000 to recond transmission, I'm trying to do a deal with a wrecker to either buy it or sell me a 2nd-hand engine ... he's got one and can do replacement (installed and 'guaranteed') for $1500 so may be worth taking a shot at that. But I think a going car is around only $3000 so might be worth selling it to him for $1500 (he's so far offered $1250). A shame really as it's been a great car! > > Hi everyone > > [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > back, which would explain the transmission dying at this point in > time. Soprry, I mean a '2nd-hand transmission'!!! > Actually no, we bought it 1993 at 30 000 km. But you're right ... a bit > unusual. Since it's NZ$3500 to $4000 to recond transmission, I'm trying to [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > > back, which would explain the transmission dying at this point in > > time. |
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