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Car Forum / Nissan / Nissan Maxima / September 200489 se, where to buy both throttle body gaskets?
My local Nissan dealer says I have to buy the entire engine gasket kit to obtain the throttle body gaskets. My google searching has not shown a source. Does anyone know a site or phone number for a company that has the front & rear gaskets? I could probably use the old but would rather not take the chance on an air leak. Also is there a 'kit' available that would include the injector o-rings & intake gaskets? > My local Nissan dealer says I have to buy the entire engine gasket kit to > obtain the throttle body gaskets. [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > rear gaskets? I could probably use the old but would rather not take the > chance on an air leak. If the gaskets are really this hard to find and the old ones didn't "shread", put a light coat of RTV on each side of the gasket (ultra grey would work fine) and put it back together. Same with intake gaskets, these don't have a bunch of pressure on them and I've never had problems doing this when the gaskets were hard to get.  SignatureSteve http://www.atlantaracing.com Thanks Steve, I had tried to reach your company late Friday to ask questions, but I had called after closing time. So if you are reading this... & wish to reply... here are a few questions. Are the Sorensen injectors good ones? New ones from Autozone appear to be low in price (competitive with rebuilt). Would you recommend replacing all the injectors on a high mileage car (230,000)? I have the top intake chambers off & am replacing all the vac hoses, egr, and pcv valves in an attempt to fix what seems to be a vac leak affecting idle & below 2500 rpm performance. All the injectors 'click' uniformly but would hate to go through this work & have an injector fail in the next few months. Are new injectors prone to fail as quick as my old injectors might fail? Is there equivalent generic O-rings for the injectors? Do you have a favorite site to order parts from? An injector rebuilding company said that there is no difference between 'blue' & 'black' injectors & a mixture of injectors would work OK on my engine. Doesn't seem right does it? If true why worry about color type? I know that's quite a few questions to ask but when you want to do the 'right' repair & save money at the same time it gets to be frustrating trying to find good sources & correct information. Thanks. Jerry > Would you recommend replacing all the injectors on a high mileage car > (230,000)? I have the top intake chambers off & am replacing all the vac > hoses, egr, and pcv valves in an attempt to fix what seems to be a vac > leak affecting idle & below 2500 rpm performance. All the injectors > 'click' uniformly but would hate to go through this work & have an > injector fail in the next few months. If you're already going to be in there, and the extra cost isn't a problem, then go ahead and do it. This engine will get you over 300K without too much difficulty. > Are new injectors prone to fail as quick as my old injectors might fail? Well, "quick" is a relative term here. 230,000 miles is not "quick" at all. In fact, it's quite good for injectors. If you're expecting another 230,000 out of the new ones, you may be disappointed. But they should last as long as the originals. > Is there equivalent generic O-rings for the injectors? Why not use the ones that come with the new injectors? > Do you have a favorite site to order parts from? I bought my injectors from the dealer. I figured it was too important a part to get a rebuilt, and the prices were close enough that I went with OEM. > An injector rebuilding company said that there is no difference between > 'blue' & 'black' injectors & a mixture of injectors would work OK on my > engine. Doesn't seem right does it? If true why worry about color type? Everything I've read is that you should NOT mix the colors. There are subtle enough differences that the ECU will have trouble tweaking the flow. The mixture will never be quite right and the O2 sensors will keep feeding this info back to the ECU, which will keep trying to change the flow, and may never succeed. If you're replacing all 6, then make sure the colors match. Bill G '91 SE Auto 168,256 miles > Thanks Steve, > [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > Are the Sorensen injectors good ones? No. > New ones from Autozone appear to be > low in price (competitive with rebuilt). We call them "squirt guns" because of their spray pattern. Instead of a nice mist, the shoot gas like a squirt gun. I've never seen a car idle right that has them. > Would you recommend replacing all the injectors on a high mileage car > (230,000)? Why? Are any of them bad? I'd rather get someone like http://www.ptrsds.com/ to clean and test them than buy junk new or rebuilt ones. > I have the top intake chambers off & am replacing all the vac > hoses, egr, and pcv valves in an attempt to fix what seems to be a vac > leak affecting idle & below 2500 rpm performance. It could be the intake gasket causing this too. All the injectors > 'click' uniformly but would hate to go through this work & have an > injector fail in the next few months. I'd rather have 230K nissan ones than new autozone ones. > Are new injectors prone to fail as quick as my old injectors might fail? They won't work right new. > Is there equivalent generic O-rings for the injectors? > > Do you have a favorite site to order parts from? Try courtesy nissan online, real nissan parts. > An injector rebuilding company said that there is no difference between > 'blue' & 'black' injectors & a mixture of injectors would work OK on my > engine. Doesn't seem right does it? It's not right. If you mix injectors with different flow rates, you get unequal mixture distribution problems that can only be solved with another set of injectors. SignatureSteve http://www.atlantaracing.com Is there a 'proper' way to separate the electrical connectors? I've always 'picked' at the wire clip until they separate. Don't want to mess up the injector connectors if I can help it. > Is there a 'proper' way to separate the electrical connectors? I've > always > 'picked' at the wire clip until they separate. That's all you can do. PITA the way those are made. BTW the injector conectors on my own Z had no wire clips on them for over 5 years and they never gave any problems. I'm not sure why they make them so "bullet proof" to get off. SignatureSteve http://www.atlantaracing.com Thanks Steve, I just finished removing the injector connectors & the fuel injection assembly. As things seem to go, the 1st clip flipped out & of course fell into the deep dark space below the water pump. Guess it won't be seen again in my lifetime. A few more questions... The connectors have some green powder from oxidation.. what do you use to clean the connectors? Do you attempt to 'tighten' the slip-on pins to make a better connection or leave them as is? Do you coat the contacts with anything to help prevent vibration &/or corrosion? The bottom of each injector is pristine, but the sides are coated in engine gunk. Is this normal and/or should I pull the intake manifold & do a thorough cleaning? It seems with each layer that is removed to take care of a problem another set of potential problems appear. I don't want to get down to where it is better to pull the engine because it has been running pretty good. Do you know what voltage the injectors operate at? Do you think I would be too 'whacky/squirrelly/etc.' to build an outside jerry rigged setup to pulse each injector while it is under pressure? Seems like it would be safe as long as the make/break was several feet from the injectors. I was thinking of getting several feet of fuel line hose & making a cable to extend one of the injector connectors to cycle each injector to observe its spray pattern. > Thanks Steve, > [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > The connectors have some green powder from oxidation.. what > do you use to clean the connectors? electronics store sell sprays for this sort of thing, also helps keep it from coming back. > Do you attempt to 'tighten' the slip-on pins to make a better connection > or leave them as is? Yep, take the point of the pick tool and you can bend the female part so it's a tighter fit. > Do you coat the contacts with anything to help prevent vibration &/or > corrosion? See above. > The bottom of each injector is pristine, but the sides are coated in > engine gunk. Is this normal Yep and doesn't affect anything. > > Do you know what voltage the injectors operate at? Do you think I would > be too 'whacky/squirrelly/etc.' to build an outside jerry rigged setup to > pulse each injector while it is under pressure? Battery voltage is OK for a high ohn injector. If it's 12-16 ohms just power them up for a second or so to watch the spray pattern. If it's a 2-3 ohm one, you'll need like a 10 ohm 1 watt dropping resistor. > Seems like it would be > safe as long as the make/break was several feet from the injectors. I was > thinking of getting several feet of fuel line hose & making a cable to > extend one of the injector connectors to cycle each injector to observe > its spray pattern. That should work fine. SignatureSteve http://www.atlantaracing.com Steve, Thanks for your comments. I made a trip to Dallas today & stopped at Courtesy Nissan. They had the throttle body gaskets in stock. Most of their 'internet' prices were reasonable. The 'blue' injectors are $99. They didn't have a 'kit' price for gaskets required to do the intake manifold. Stopped at NAPA & priced Nissan parts. Most were higher than Courtesy's prices. One part I picked up was a new EGR valve. Being the untrusting type of guy I've grown into... I tested the new EGR for air leaks... It does not have an airtight seal when the vac diaphram is not engaged. It allows 'a little' air flow both in & out. Is that OK? The parts guys & service managers didn't seem to know & would not ask a mechanic. Steve, Thanks for your comments. I made a trip to Dallas today & stopped at Courtesy Nissan. They had the throttle body gaskets in stock. Most of their 'internet' prices were reasonable. The 'blue' injectors are $99. They didn't have a 'kit' price for gaskets required to do the intake manifold. Stopped at NAPA & priced Nissan parts. Most were higher than Courtesy's prices. One part I picked up was a new EGR valve. Being the untrusting type of guy I've grown into... I tested the new EGR for air leaks... It does not have an airtight seal when the vac diaphram is not engaged. It allows 'a little' air flow both in & out. Is that OK? The parts guys & service managers didn't seem to know & would not ask a mechanic. > One part I picked up was a new EGR valve. Being the untrusting type of > guy I've grown into... I tested the new EGR for air leaks... It does not > have an airtight seal when the vac diaphram is not engaged. It allows 'a > little' air flow both in & out. These valves ussually don't give problems, but that doesn't sound right for it to leak. Never tested one that way and actually can't remember ever replacing one on any nissan. SignatureSteve http://www.atlantaracing.com Check with NAPA for the head set that includes all those gaskets and o-rings you mention > My local Nissan dealer says I have to buy the entire engine gasket kit to > obtain the throttle body gaskets. [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > Also is there a 'kit' available that would include the injector o-rings & > intake gaskets? > My local Nissan dealer says I have to buy the entire engine gasket kit to > obtain the throttle body gaskets. Wow. I bought both for my '91 from a dealer locally, and it wasn't any problem at all. They did have to order them, but I was able to get them individually. I bet your dealer CAN do that as well, but is choosing not to. They'll make more money on the kit (obviously). Bill G '91 SE Auto 168,256 miles > My google searching has not shown a source. > [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > Also is there a 'kit' available that would include the injector o-rings & > intake gaskets? Thanks to all that replied. Today I found a low mileage (35,000) complete engine that should have good parts. I plan to use those parts instead of paying several hundred on injectors & other components. So far about $600 total I should have the parts to fix whatever my problem might be (except for new gaskets & timing belt & tensioner). |
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