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Car Forum / Nissan / Nissan Maxima / October 2004Suspension Problems and Maxima -- Time to Quit?
Hi, My Limo (91 GXE with about 260k miles/417k kms) has been plagued with alingment problems for the past two months. An independent garage worked on it in August, but it is still a problem. I took it to a Nissan dealer this morning, and here is the diagnosis: 1. 3 lug nuts and studs broken on LF wheel = 1.0 hrs = $95 2. Front struts worn ($96 each) = 3.0hrs = $432 3. Rear Shocks/struts worn ($96 each) = 5.0hrs = $610 4. CV. Boots / two inner tire rod boots torn ($20 each) - 3.0hrs = $280 5. Control Arms bushing worn ($200 each) = 2.0hrs = $570.00 6. Transmission slippage...needs to be checked further. 7. Needs timing belt/water pump change So, is the $3,000 being quoted for this reasonable..i think i can have it done cheaper...with an independent mechanic. In the meantime, I took a drive with a friend this evening... and checked out two good cars -- maybe it is time to move on - if I have to make a purchase, I would consider getting a 4th Gen (98/99) Infiniti I30 (LE) or Maxima (SE-Auto). Can you give me the relative pros and cons of one over the other. The Infiniti is about 89K and the maxima about 70K. Both cost around 12K with some Baltimore area dealers, but could be had cheaper with private sales cheers - Noela On 10/13/04 6:59 AM, in article 9ece9ac0.0410130359.6580456e@posting.google.com, "Noela" <noela@iname.com> wrote: > Hi, > [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] > > cheers - Noela If you prefer the handling of the Maxima SE, then you want to also look for an i30t. They have the tighter handling similar to an SE Maxima. The plain i30 is basically a maxima GLE with extra sound deadening, all the options and the body that was used on the international version of the Maxima. ">> > If you prefer the handling of the Maxima SE, then you want to also look for > an i30t. They have the tighter handling similar to an SE Maxima. The plain > i30 is basically a maxima GLE with extra sound deadening, all the options > and the body that was used on the international version of the Maxima. Yup. The I30t has longer overhangs over the front and rear wheels, and 100 pounds (!) of extra sound insulation. Thus, the I30t doesn't "quite" handle like a Maxima SE, given equal tires. Doesn't "quite" run as fast, either. Aside from the looks of the car, I'd take an Infiniti over a Maxima. It was under warranty longer, probably had a little better maintenance overall. And the paint is significantly better on the I30's than on the Maximas. JM '96 I30t > Hi, > [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] > > cheers - Noela Yup, I'd say so. With 260K miles, your engine may be nearly done in it's useful life. Rings may start to go, water pump etc, and that's AFTER you spend $3K fixing up all the other stuff. Look forward to the 98-99s and step up to the legendary VQ motor. Once you've floored a VQ you won't want to go back to a VG:) CD >> Hi, >> [quoted text clipped - 34 lines] > > CD And in all honesty, in 72K miles, I've never even floored mine, yet I still feel the kick...  Signaturekai - filesiteguy at yahoo dot com www.perfectreign.com || www.filesite.org || www.gamephreakz.com "I got a Rock!" - C. Brown Now playing: "Clan of Xymox - Obsession" Wow , this guy really knows his Nissan's NOT !!!!! ring problems is a VG series engine, I almost pissed my pants laughing at that statement 260k and the engine is toast, Well I hate to break it to you bud but it's not uncommon for a properly maintained VG series engine to last well over 350k or more. the reason I know this is because I have seen it. In all honesty, I'd take a VG over a VQ or VE anyday. Don't get me wrong, the VQ is a great engine. Voted in the top ten best V6's for quite a few years but from a technician's pointy of view gimmie the VG anyday > > Hi, > > [quoted text clipped - 34 lines] > > CD > Wow , this guy really knows his Nissan's > [quoted text clipped - 52 lines] >> >>CD Like I said in my original post, which you are more than welcome to read again, the VG engine *MAY* be on it's way out. Can you garrantee that it'll go to 350K miles? Face it, it's a bit of a gamble at such high mileage. And I am in no way knocking the VG motor. the VQ is simply better. All aluminum vs iron block, 190 HP vs 160, better TQ range due to it being a highly evolved DOHC V6 vs SOHC in the VG. It's a natural evolution. Plus, the VQs got a timing chain that almost never needs service (yes there are exceptions with chain tensioner issues in the 95-96 Maximas, but it's a small number.) Granted, the VG may be easier to work on, I don't really know. But the VQ ain't bad, I've changed my alterntor, belts, spark plugs and brakes by myself. Even done the dreaded feul filter (my car has ABS). Any increase in inconvenince for an DIY work performed on the VQ would be more than made up for by it's increased performance and fun over its VG predecessor. CD On 10/14/04 10:40 AM, in article ckm6ha$29bn$1@news.interpublic.com, >> Wow , this guy really knows his Nissan's >> [quoted text clipped - 71 lines] > > CD I think the real issue here is that the repair bill is pretty close to the current value of the car. I have a '91 240sx that my daughter drives. Really nice car. I try to keep it as perfect as possible, but if I were confronted with a $3000 repair bill to keep it on the road, it would be gone in a heartbeat. > Hi, > [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > 1. 3 lug nuts and studs broken on LF wheel = 1.0 hrs = $95 Kind of a pain, but you can do it yourself. > 2. Front struts worn ($96 each) = 3.0hrs = $432 > 3. Rear Shocks/struts worn ($96 each) = 5.0hrs = $610 Seems kinda high. Find a decent alignment shop and have them do it. You're gonna need an alignment after this anyway. Also, you may not *need* new struts. Park the car on a flat surface. Go to each corner of the car and start rocking it up and down until it's moving pretty good. Then let it go and see how long it takes to return to level. If it returns immediately, you don't *need* new struts, they are working correctly. If it continues to bounce a few times before settling, then they are worn. Mine have 170K miles, and are working just fine. > 4. CV. Boots / two inner tire rod boots torn ($20 each) - 3.0hrs = > $280 > 5. Control Arms bushing worn ($200 each) = 2.0hrs = $570.00 Also have this checked out by the alignment shop. The $200 seems a bit high. > 6. Transmission slippage...needs to be checked further. Could be a problem, but have it checked out. > 7. Needs timing belt/water pump change Do it yourself. I've done it twice and while it does take some time, it is not difficult. Check the camshaft seals while you're in there. Also make sure you replace the thermostat too. Cheap, and again, you'll already be in there. > So, is the $3,000 being quoted for this reasonable..i think i can have > it done cheaper...with an independent mechanic. Almost assuredly. An alignment shop can do all the suspension work (struts/control arms/CV boots), you can do the water pump/timing belt, and the lug nuts are also doable. The only deal breaker is the transmission. It could cost LOTS to get fixed. I'd have this checked out first by at least 2 different tranny shops. This car will last another 75-100K miles easily. The engine is practically indestructible. > In the meantime, I took a drive with a friend this evening... and > checked out two good cars -- maybe it is time to move on - if I have > to make a purchase, I would consider getting a 4th Gen (98/99) > Infiniti I30 (LE) or Maxima (SE-Auto). Can you give me the relative > pros and cons of one over the other. Compared to your car, the newer Max loses the independent rear suspension. Good luck. Bill G '91 SE Auto 169,690 miles |
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