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Car Forum / Nissan / Nissan Maxima / June 2005

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Major squeaks in rear after a $500 brake pad job

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alexi - 25 May 2005 05:04 GMT
Hello folks, I need a piece of advice here.

My wife has a Maxima 99, now about 60k, no problems never, used to run like
a
charm, braking well, accelerating, you name it. After a minor fender scratch
at 48k miles I decided to check wheel alignment, just in case, and a
mechanic
pointed to me that the brake pads are running low, on all four wheels.
So, I decided to trust this job to professionals, for which they charged me
$529.35. Unfortunately, my wife started to complain about ugly squeaks
when braking in reverse, and the squeaking becomes louder and louder over
time, so outside people would turn heads to it. Not good. Since the pads
came
with "lifetime warranty", I brought the car back to the repair garage, they
kept it for 2 hours, and said that they fixed the problem. However,
the squeaks re-appeared on the next day or so, and it's still squeaking, and
getting worse every day.

I wondered around with co-workers, and they suggested that it is quite
likely that the garage put in very cheap pads, that's the problem. So I
decided to do the job myself - I've done it once on an old Infinity J30
(including rear crossmember and whole left wheel suspension BTW!). For the
J30
I had not a single problem, caliper pistons moved freely back, new pads went
in like a charm, and the J30 runs and brakes perfectly since then.

Unfortunately, that was not the case with Maxima. I found that I can't
retract
the piston back not a single millimeter! When I press the brake pedal, the
piston
goes out, but I can't depress it in no matter what I do! After looking on
the web, I found that it looks like my pistons were cocked, and it was
done at the professional garage (I found a charge for "caliper rebuild"
in the invoice, why the heck would they do this?). I left the other wheel
untouched, just in case that I might need a proof of that. According to
Nissan
Maxima Haynes Repair Manual, I should be able to depress the piston
into the caliper before removing anything, using a C-clamp. I tried, gently,

it doesn't move at all, while there is a room of 2-3mm (the pads are
pretty new).

So, the question: is there anything I can do to convince the garage to
do the job right, re-build the pistons, preferably at their expense?
Is there any way to deal with this? I am really pissed off, I hoped for
a 2-hour exercise, but it turned out that I am now without brakes ...

Thanks,
- Alex
njmodi - 26 May 2005 09:29 GMT
To retract the pistons:

1. Front Pistons - these you should be able to squeeze/compress back
into the caliper using a C-clamp. Make sure you have opened the master
cylinder reservior or the caliper bleeder first.

2. Rear Pistons - these need to be turned NOT compressed into the
calipers.  I believe turning the pistons anti-clockwise will retract
them into the caliper.  You can either carefully use a needle nose
plier (careful - means don't accidentally slip with the pliers and tear
up the piston seal) to twist the piston back or you can rent/buy a tool
that you can use with a ratchet to twist the piston back.  Again make
sure you have either the bleeder valve open or the cap off the master
cylinder reservoir.

If you open any of the bleeders, make sure you purge any air out of the
brake lines.

Cheers.
Nirav
96 Max GLE 117k
Steve T - 27 May 2005 07:37 GMT
> To retract the pistons:
>
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> calipers.  I believe turning the pistons anti-clockwise will retract
> them into the caliper.  

You're correct except you turn them clockwise. Also make sure the notch in
the piston ends up at 90 degrees to the rotor so the nub on the pad fits
into the notch.

Signature


Steve

http://www.atlantaracing.com

njmodi - 29 May 2005 02:56 GMT
Steve T,

Thanks for the correction... it is indeed clockwise to retract the
pistons.  Also, good to mention the alignment of the notches for the
pad nub fits...

Cheers.
Nirav
96 Max GLE, 117k

> > To retract the pistons:
> >
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> the piston ends up at 90 degrees to the rotor so the nub on the pad fits
> into the notch.
alexi - 02 Jun 2005 05:21 GMT
Thanks folks for your replies. It was quite an effort to retract rear
pistons, but I managed it, thanks. Still don't understand why wouldn't they
go straight... but anyway, I put in the Bendix brand pads, and ugly squeaks
went away. Still they have some weak low "ooooooo" sound when braking
backwards, but it is much better than after "professional" job.

> Steve T,
>
[quoted text clipped - 25 lines]
> >
> > http://www.atlantaracing.com
 
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