pump is a pump pump is a pump pump is a pump pump is a pump
..it doesnt know where why when it rotates. It knows only the pain of masters whip..

Its bearings & seals will be shot say at one zillionth revolution if rpm is 3000 and temp constant. Maxima rpm's are typically low, and if youre not a racer, you may add 2x to what a small 4-cyl engine whines

Last time I had pump failure was in the 70's, 2million miles since then, multiple vehicles with zillion other problems. Still, I would schedule a major overhaul (or car swap) at 200k miles, replace the pump along lots O-rings, bearings, alt &whatever, just to keep safe

Dont worry, be happy. And prepared

Edit: Instead of waterpump, I would ask smbdy to check chain & chain guide condition now

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Wiikinki
www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/

Mine died at 95,000 miles, a bit early.  Had the good graces to develop
a slow leak, rather than a gusher.

This is NOT a roadside repair.  It is a long, tedious pain in the butt.
You are entering the prime-time failure zone.  Replace it, if you
expect to keep the car for a long time.

    Mine's still going strong at 140k.  I have a brand new spare in a box
should it ever fail.  I haven't changed it simply due to the hassle.

    It seems to me that Nissan water pumps might be failing early when the
system is filled with the wrong coolant - namely any coolant containing
silicates, or mixing with water that is not distilled.  As well, not
changing (drain & replace - none of this expensive flush stuff) on a
regular basis (like every 30k or 60k) would seem to increase the chance
of a failure.

    Dave

Actually, your GLE (so must be automatic), should be at ~2500RPM a
70mph (assuming you have overdrive enabled) if everything is working a
intended...
All depends where, who, how, why...

Here 97% [Finland] drivin is 50 or below under ticket cameras... this means 1900rpm with overdrive & gearlock, often CAT starts stinking as too low rpm... (-93 VGE). Live in germany, 4500rpm would be common:

If u have A/T:
..check that your gearlock is working; needs 15min warmup drive. After engagement, drops rpm about 300. (When gearlock is ON, pushing lightly gas pedal causes no rpm change, only speed starts to go up. Pushing hard, gearlock disengages, rpm shoots up

--
Wiikinki
www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/

Yes. Just let it die when it dies. It usually starts gradually with a
leak. That'll be your signal.

For preventive maintenance to make it last as long as possible, stay
away from most American anti-freezes like Prestone. Japanese cars use a
silicatre free anti-freeze which is less abrasive. Given the
considerable labor involved with the water pump replacement it will
easily justify the increased expense of the japanese coolants.

CD