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Car Forum / Nissan / Nissan Maxima / January 20062001 Maxima Brake Rotor Removal
How hard is it to remove and replace front brake rotors on an '01 Maxima. I removed the caliper several months ago to check the pads but did not look to see how to remove the rotor. Now the rotors need to be turned/replaced. I want to know if I do it myself. Same question for rear rotor. Any info would be appreciated. OM Seems to be like it used to be in the 70's... check yourself the links http://www.cardomain.com/id/pohjola#link See FSM page BR-26 Rotor repair limit: 22.0 mm (0.866 in To get balanced brakes, add special grease under piston dust shield & grease on rails; after greasing my variation between wheels is 0% = ZERO.. click on http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/1 http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/4/web/748000-748999/748507_436.jp -- Wiikinki www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/ > How hard is it to remove and replace front brake rotors on an '01 Maxima. > I removed the caliper several months ago to check the pads but did not [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > OM The info. below applies to the fronts and rears: Once the calipers are removed, you have to remove the caliper bracket (torque member). The torque member is held on by two bolts (that tend to get quite tight/locked in place). Once you have the torque member removed, the rotors just slide off the hub - they are not secured to the hub (other than by rust/grime). If the rotor doesn't slide off, I typically tap it a few times with a rubber mallet and it pops right off. If that does work,you can use some bolts to get it off - there are threaded holes (not sure of the size) in the rotor for this purpose. Cheers, Nirav 96 Max GLE, 128k I seemed to reacll seeing someplace in the web that turning the rotor on this generation of Maximas needs to be done in-place instead of in the turning machine, otherwise the brake pulsing symptom will not go away. Is this true? I was told the same for my 93 300ZX...not sure if it's true. Any ideas? Thanks >I seemed to reacll seeing someplace in the web that turning the rotor > on this generation of Maximas needs to be done in-place instead of in > the turning machine, otherwise the brake pulsing symptom will not go > away. Is this true? This was true on the Z32 series, we had TSB's stating that the rotors needed to be resurfaced on the car but as brake lathe technology progressed and we did not need to do it on the car. The Maxima's rotors do not need to be turned on the car, they can be removed and resurfaced, just follow Nirav's instructions and you will be good to go > I was told the same for my 93 300ZX...not sure if it's true. Any ideas? > Thanks [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > the turning machine, otherwise the brake pulsing symptom will not go > > away. Is this true? NissTech, Having lost patience with my factory rotors needing machining after 15-20k mi. I chose some Brembos to replace them. Still they needed turning after 20-25k. I believe this is due to either Nissan's pad or caliper design? Share your thoughts on this one? > This was true on the Z32 series, we had TSB's stating that the rotors needed > to be resurfaced on the car but as brake lathe technology progressed and we [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] >>> the turning machine, otherwise the brake pulsing symptom will not go >>> away. Is this true? >NissTech, > >Having lost patience with my factory rotors needing machining after >15-20k mi. I chose some Brembos to replace them. Still they needed >turning after 20-25k. I believe this is due to either Nissan's pad or >caliper design? Take a look at this: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml Al Moodie. ..the brake pulsing symptom ... .. depends on pul-sing definition... cannot believe -if- question is about mechanical unevenness. ABS roughness may be caused by bad/dirty/nonalign sensor(s) and/or ABS computer connections. In maxima the connector pins are cheap tin -type which deteriorate fast. Contact grease helped to smooth it out.. click on http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/1 http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/4/web/748000-748999/748507_316.jp -- Wiikinki www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/ ..Take a look at this http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtm ..thks for a good link For normal street sinners, this might be a good advice; [excerpt] "...never leave your foot on the brake pedal after you have used the brakes hard. This is not usually a problem on public roads simply because, under normal conditions, the brakes have time to cool before you bring the car to a stop (unless, like me, you live at the bottom of a long steep hill). In any kind of racing, including autocross and "driving days" it is crucial. Regardless of friction material, clamping the pads to a hot stationary disc will result in material transfer and discernible "brake roughness". What is worse, the pad will leave the telltale imprint or outline on the disc and your sin will be visible to all and sundry. -- Wiikinki www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/ |
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