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Car Forum / Nissan / Nissan Maxima / July 200691 Max GXE died
Hey everyone, I am need of your expertise yet again. My 91 Max (195K), 5 spd just died last Thursday. I presumed it was the timing belt as it has 120k on that belt. I got it towed home and upon further inspection it was not the belt (the distributor rotor turned while cranking). I then found I had no spark. After 2 days of searching, it turned out to be the ECM fuse. I replaced the 10amp fuse and it fired right up. So my question is, what could cause the fuse to blow? Is it possible it just got weak after 200k miles and 16 years? Do I have a chaffed wire somewhere that is grounding out? This is the first time this has happened and I am not sure where to look. TIA, Derek What ? fuse (fuses listed: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/5 "...got weak after 200k miles and 16 years? Do I have a chaffed wire... - mayb - maybe fuse just gave ou - do a 'harness tuneup', see page 1 -- Wiikinki www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/ > Hey everyone, > [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > Derek Seems like a bad ground connection. Your car is 15 years old therefor alot of electrical connectons are bound to get rusty. I would check/clean the major ground connections like the black wire at the alternator, the ignition wire to the starter etc. Also, I'm pretty sure, like 90%, that your car has a timing chain. Most Nissan motors are timing chain driven, and hence almost never need changing unless that car's been severely abused and/or badly maintained. CD Thanks for the tip. I was almost positive this car had a belt and was worried since I let it go so long. I'll have to look into this more, but thanks for the insight. Derek > > Hey everyone, > > [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > > CD 91 GXE has a belt if i am not mistaken. The SE had chains. > Thanks for the tip. I was almost positive this car had a belt and was > worried since I let it go so long. I'll have to look into this more, [quoted text clipped - 29 lines] >> >>CD > 91 GXE has a belt if i am not mistaken. The SE had chains. > [quoted text clipped - 31 lines] >>> >>> CD AS is correct; http://www.courtesyparts.com/J30_timing.html My bad. CD .. almost positive this car had a belt and wa worried .. Distributor = yes = VG30E = belt = ...stay worried until changed.. -- Wiikinki www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/ Hey All, Want to run this by the gurus in here and see what they think. I replaced my ECM fuse, checked all wiring that I could and found no issues. Even paid the mechanic 1 hour labor to look also. Fuse hasn't blown yet so I have my fingers crossed. The car did die again last week and this time it was due to lack of cranking voltage so when you hit the key to start, all lights went out, you heard some fizzing, etc. Found the positive cable to the starter was slightly loose so I jingled it and it fired right up. When I got back home, I thoroughly tightened the battery cables, cleaned the terminals, etc. What are the chances that loose cable could have caused the EMC fuse to blow? TIA again, Derek > Hey everyone, > [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > Derek > Hey All, > [quoted text clipped - 29 lines] >> >>Derek Definitely a jiggling starter cable, especially any high current wire like the starter, alternator, etc could be enough to spike the voltage and blow the fuse. CD Thanks CD. I hope that was it. Both issues happened within 1 week/25 miles of each other. > > Hey All, > > [quoted text clipped - 35 lines] > > CD ..what could cause the fuse to blow? .. weak after 200k miles and 16 years.. - u said i Fuse is to protect for overload. Loose supply cable/spiking cannot cause overload ...however... at startup a device draws max pwr -and- THAT may blow a fuse... if/when a fuse is bad and/or too small (Note: Playin with supply cable Possibly causes that startup 15A fuse wont 'hurt' - it will stand the start spike better... One reason may be oxidized connectors, also at fuses. Volvo recommends contact grease on fuses - works on Nissans too... See link p14 below -- Wiikinki www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/ From ECU/Fuse point of view, its all the same if u play with batt cable -or- ign key. All 'it' sees is pwr/nopwr... and surge start spike. That may blow fuse if fuse is 'too small' from the beginning Components do change/degrade during lifetime and may start drawing more current. Ambient conditions (heat, humidity) add to that. For example ECU has the pwr consuming driver circuits for injector coils, their pwr consumption varies as pedal is pressed.. I think the 10Afuse is quite 'on the edge' all the time... so...try that next size =15A fuse -- Wiikinki www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/ |
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