The rears are basically the same as the fronts as far as disassembly of
the caliper and torque member (caliper bracket).  The most important
difference between the front and the rears is that you screw
(clockwise) the rear caliper pistons to retract them as opposed to just
compressring them in (as you would do for the fronts).

I have found that the rear caliper pistons tend to seize, depending on
when your rear brakes were last serviced, you may find that the pistons
don't want to rotate easily, and therefore you may not be able to
retract them enough to clear the new pads.  If you end up in that
situation, the only solution is to replace the entire caliper.

The one other tip for the rears, is that you will find that the rear
inside pad backing plate has a nub on it.  You will also notice that
the rear caliper piston has a cross-shaped groove on it.  You need to
make sure the piston is rotated such that when you place the caliper
over the pads, the nub on the pad falls into the piston notch.

The other part of the rear caliper that is different from the front is
that the e-brake cable is attached to the rear. If you don't plan on
removing the caliper from the car, then it is of no consequence, except
that you should make sure that the cable itself is not binding -
pull/release the e-brake a few times and make sure the caliper
holds/releases as you would expect.

Hope that helps,

Nirav
96 Max GLE, 135k

Buy special (!) brake-grease and squeeze under piston, rails, handbrake -dust shields..

Fluid change every2-3yrs

Lube boosts brakes possibly 5
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/1
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/4/web/748000-748999/748507_437.jp

--
Wiikinki
www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/