If it's anything like my '93 it'll be pretty much the same. Sort of
threaded ball doo-hickey if I remember correctly. Go look at one at the
auto parts place. Measure distances before removing so you can get it
fairly close on the reinstallation. Realignment required after install.
You may think the alignment fine afterwards until you drive in the rain
and then you'll think you're driving on ice.
Thanks- I've seenthe part on the web- a threaded rod- doohickey and a
nut- my question woul be- is the nut threaded on before you insert the
threraded part of the rod, so it acts as a lock, or do you thread the
not on from the opposite side, like a traditional screw/nut.
if its the latter,, how hard is it to get to. if its the first, i
guess you just need to fit a wrench over the doohickey and turn.
> If it's anything like my '93 it'll be pretty much the same. Sort of
> threaded ball doo-hickey if I remember correctly. Go look at one at the
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> > Thx,
> > Bob
mario andretti - 09 Aug 2006 18:02 GMT
Can't remember it being in 2 parts so I thinks it's all one piece,
installation wise. It's a tight space to work in. Lots of wrench
reversing. Should be an easy fix for you. If a goober like me can do
it....
> Thanks- I've seenthe part on the web- a threaded rod- doohickey and a
> nut- my question woul be- is the nut threaded on before you insert the
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
> > > Thx,
> > > Bob
njmodi - 09 Aug 2006 18:49 GMT
> Thanks- I've seenthe part on the web- a threaded rod- doohickey and a
> nut- my question woul be- is the nut threaded on before you insert the
> threraded part of the rod, so it acts as a lock, or do you thread the
> not on from the opposite side, like a traditional screw/nut.
> if its the latter,, how hard is it to get to. if its the first, i
> guess you just need to fit a wrench over the doohickey and turn.
Bob - what you're describing sounds like the OUTER tie-rod end, not the
INNER one. the outer one works as you describe, you thread the nut on
first, then the outer tie-rod (female) threads onto the inner-tie rod
and then the nut is "loosened" until it locks against the outer tie-rod
end keeping it from moving. Basically when a shop does a toe
alignment, all they are doing is adjusing how far the outer tie-rod end
is thread onto the inner.
To replace the inner, you have to remove the steering rack boot and
then get a hold of a inner tie-rod end tool. A rental from
autozone/etc. will not fit. Lisle (brand) makes a nice tool for the
job that fits perfectly and makes it fairly straightforward.
I've done this on my 96 Maxima - feel free to post back if you need
additional help.
Nirav
96 Maxima GLE 136k