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Car Forum / Nissan / Nissan Maxima / November 200697 Max. Needs Work @ 150K
Hello All, PRICE CHECK.....I have a 97 Max with 150K on the clock. Car doesn't owe me anything!!! I haven't put any serious cash into it outside of normal maintanence. The car runs great with very little and I mean little oil usage between changes. I just changed the oil and noticed that one of the CV joint boots split. There's still alot of grease in there so I assume it just happened. Anyways, I want to keep the car and am planning on taking it to have the axles done along with the front struts. Can anyone out there provide a ball park figure on this work? I plan on getting an estimate sometime this week or early next. I figure that the work will cost me less than a few car payments. This way I should be able to get another year or two out of the car. Thanks, Paul > Hello All, > [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > Thanks, > Paul === Don't know where you are but will make a guess it will cost around $700 parts and labor. > > Hello All, > > [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > Don't know where you are but will make a guess it will cost around $700 > parts and labor. Thanks for the reply Shines. I'm in the Boston area and I'm looking for some quality in the parts used. I assume that Monroe make's strut assemblies for my car so I'll most likely go with this. I'm looking to get out of the shop for under $1000 complete. >> > Hello All, >> > [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > assemblies for my car so I'll most likely go with this. I'm looking to > get out of the shop for under $1000 complete. === Well as you already know everything in and around Boston is not going to be cheap to get fixed. But I am betting you will get out under 1K this with the quality parts. Let us know what it ends up costing you. I have a 98 Nissan Maxima bought it new and it has 12,565 miles on it as of today. > Well as you already know everything in and around Boston is not going to be > cheap to get fixed. But I am betting you will get out under 1K this with the > quality parts. Let us know what it ends up costing you. I have a 98 Nissan > Maxima bought it new and it has 12,565 miles on it as of today. 8 year old car with only 12,565 miles on the odo? That's 1570 miles a year, or 4 miles a day. Do you walk to work? CD >> Well as you already know everything in and around Boston is not going to >> be cheap to get fixed. But I am betting you will get out under 1K this [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > CD === I had a 78 Cordoba bought it new put 65K on it and they were really problem filled miles. Had it hauled off to junk yard. Bought a Ford Bronco in 82 with the 5L v8 and that doomed Motercraft 2 bbl. carb. Got that carb replaced with a sweet holly. it had 45K and runs great. Oh also a 03 Sorento bought new has 5K. So I have to put a few miles on them all. > Hello All, > [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > Thanks, > Paul If there's still grease on the joint then all you have to replace is the boot. Get the boot replaced asap at minimal cost, about $140. CD > > Hello All, > > [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > > CD Thought about doing that, but with the 150K on the clock and expecting to do another 100K I feel that the best thing to do is replace the axels. I know the struts are shot based on the way the front end responds to bumps and pot holes. The tie rods and ball joints are still tight and in good shape so no need to replace. Just looking for a ball park figure from someone who had it done. Since the wife will be driving the car, I'd like to make sure that the it's extremly safe. -paul >>>Hello All, >>> [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] > > -paul Can't argue about your wife's safety, but since the joint is still greasy, there really is no need to get it replaced. Also,as a test, with the windows open and driving through turns, do your hear any clicking sound? When the CV joints are beginning their decent into complete failure, it's quite gradual, and it starts with the clicking sound when you're driving in a turn. I hear clicking on other people's cars all the time. Just a matter of time I think to myself. To top it off, I did this very thing in my wife's 98 Altima last year. car's still running great on the original axles. CD > >>>Hello All, > >>> [quoted text clipped - 40 lines] > > CD No, no clicking, but just the same, I think I'm going to have them replaced. The only front end noise that I have is a poping sound. I think this is from the struts and will have them replaced. I have owned this car since new in 97. I have done all maintanence and have had no major failures. It's a great car and I would like a few more years out of it. This will give us enough time to save for another one. Thanks......-paul > Thought about doing that, but with the 150K on the clock and expecting > to do another 100K I feel that the best thing to do is replace the [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > -paul you have a better chance of winning the lottery than finding a nicely remanned axle - well not quite, but you get my point. If you want a quality axle, you gotta go OEM Nissan or try www.raxles.com. Getting your local parts store specials will likely result in a lot of frustration on everybody's part. I would recomend Tokico strut replacements - they are the OEM for Nissan and relatively inexpensive. With that many miles, I recommend you replace all 4 - parts cost for all 4 corners (front struts, rear shocks, bearings, boots) should be < $500. An independent shop may charge $200-300 for replacement on all 4 corners. That puts you at 800 bucks already... raxles are not cheap, but definitely cheaper than OEM nissan replacements... axle replacement will likley run a few hundred more. Bottom line, you might be able to stay under 1k, but I think for 1200 bucks or so, you'll definitely be able to get all new suspension and new quality axles put in. For another 150k - thats a no brainer :) Nirav 96 Max GLE, 139k > > Thought about doing that, but with the 150K on the clock and expecting > > to do another 100K I feel that the best thing to do is replace the [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] > Nirav > 96 Max GLE, 139k Thanks Nirav. Were on the same page, but it's alot easier to swallow when I have an idea up front what it's going to cost. Rear shocks and coil looks good so I'm going to hold off for now. I agree with the Tokico strut replacements, but will ask for a price on the Monroes also. Going with the axles and the struts I think I can have it done for about 1K, which I can live with. -paul paul.flansb...@hotmail.com wrote: > > > Thought about doing that, but with the 150K on the clock and expecting > > > to do another 100K I feel that the best thing to do is replace the [quoted text clipped - 36 lines] > > -paul Sorry....Forgot to ask. Can I get pre-built/assembled struts for the Max.? l > Sorry....Forgot to ask. Can I get pre-built/assembled struts for the > Max.? Yes - the entire strut comes as a one-piece assembly. You don't have to take out your old insert and use a replacement. In addition to the strut assembly itself, I would suggest you replace the strut boot and strut bearing. If you really want to be trouble free, consider replacing the strut mount as well - not required though - and a good mechanic should be able to validate the condition of your existing mounts. Cheers, Nirav I am having both CV's replaced as we speak by a nissan dealer. It is estimated at $650. I readily accepted that but the water pump about made me cry. They estimated that in the $650 to $700 range. UUUGGGG. But I did find out in this group that there is a special antifreeze to be used in these puppies. > Hello All, > [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > Thanks, > Paul >I am having both CV's replaced as we speak by a nissan dealer. It is >estimated at $650. I readily accepted that but the water pump about made >me cry. They estimated that in the $650 to $700 range. UUUGGGG. But I >did find out in this group that there is a special antifreeze to be used >in these puppies. absolutely,,, never use anything but the Nissan antifreeze - yes its 15 a gallon, but its formulated to not corode all the various bi metallic parts of the system, and you really only need to change it every 3 or 5 years. >>I am having both CV's replaced as we speak by a nissan dealer. It is >>estimated at $650. I readily accepted that but the water pump about made [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > but its formulated to not corode all the various bi metallic parts of > the system, and you really only need to change it every 3 or 5 years. ==== $15 a gallon you just gotta be kidding. I think the Nissan service Dept. thugs sold you a barn door of a shafting. Any good quality anti-freeze will not corode the new cooling systems and they cost around $6 a gal. > ==== > $15 a gallon you just gotta be kidding. I think the Nissan service Dept. > thugs sold you a barn door of a shafting. Any good quality anti-freeze will > not corode the new cooling systems and they cost around $6 a gal. Which locally parts-store anti-freeze do you consider "good-quality", and do you think meets Nissans silicate-free formulation requirement? I'm genuinely intersted to know since I plan on doing a radiator flush this weekend. As an aside, with 30k intervals, 1 gallon of coolant (which is all that is needed, since you mix it 50/50) is 0.05 cents per mile... it's not *really* that bad IMO. Consider 5 qts of Mobil 1, with a 15k change interval and the oil is still more expensive ;) over the life of the car... Nirav >> ==== >> $15 a gallon you just gotta be kidding. I think the Nissan service Dept. [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > >Nirav Dont you just love the morons on this group, that call you an idiot for spending 7 extra bucks to get the correct parts for a $30,000 car,,,, I didnt think I needed to mention the need for silicate free coolant - something that the 6 dollar "green stuff" at your discount parts store are loaded with. But then again Mr Shines wouldnt know a silicate from a fornocate. common_sense@netscape.com wrote: > >> ==== > >> $15 a gallon you just gotta be kidding. I think the Nissan service Dept. [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > > But then again Mr Shines wouldnt know a silicate from a fornocate. No need for name calling. Were all here to help each other. So, on my Max. I have just over 150K. The car is just about 10yrs old. I change the antifreeze every year and used the Prestone and I have yet to replace anything in the cooling system, outside of the thermostat, and have not had any issues. I'll continue to do this until I get rid of the car in about 2yrs. -paul >common_sense@netscape.com wrote: >> [quoted text clipped - 35 lines] > >-paul Mr Shine is the one calling the names,, and for my .05 cents per mile, I will stick with the Nissan factory certified coolant. And so,,why did your thermostat go bad,,Hmmmm? and as they say - your results may vary. I specifically asked the dealer this question about my MAX because they just replaced the water pump. No indication that it takes special antifreeze. >> common_sense@netscape.com wrote: >>> [quoted text clipped - 42 lines] > > and as they say - your results may vary. >I specifically asked the dealer this question about my MAX because they >just replaced the water pump. No indication that it takes special >antifreeze. It takes silicate free anti freeze, I think if you go through you manual you will find that warning. Nissan factory coolant is silicate free, most OTC stuff is not - use at your own risk. They use factory coolant, so its no issue for them. common_sense@netscape.com wrote: > >I specifically asked the dealer this question about my MAX because they > >just replaced the water pump. No indication that it takes special [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > free, most OTC stuff is not - use at your own risk. They use factory > coolant, so its no issue for them. Actually - all the dealers I've asked, just use local bulk coolant (whatever their local supplier provides). The only time they use OEM coolant is for warranty work. The same is true for other Nissan recommend fluids, e.g. transmission fluid, etc. etc. Again YMMV. Nirav >common_sense@netscape.com wrote: >> [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > >Nirav Hmmm,,"only for warranty work",,Hmmm Now why would that be,,Hmmmm,,?? My dealer uses Nissan fluids. > Hello All, > [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > Thanks, > Paul Paul: I had the axles, CV joints, boots, and bushings replaced on my (100K) 97 Max, and the cost without the extra labor due to wrong parts, and without the bushings was more than $800. Then there was the extra car rental time. While your suspension is being worked on you may want to replace the worn front suspension control arm and front anti-sway bar stock rubber bushings with new solid polyurethane bushings offered by EnergySuspension. That will provide you with a marked improvement in steering precision and control over uneven roads and in air buffeting from side winds and semis. Be sure that they send you the parts with the right part numbers. They sent me the wrong parts, and the mechanic had to keep my car on the lift for three extra days while the new parts were sent. Be sure that you get the special EnergySuspension grease for the bushings. Otherwise the squeaking sounds made by the bushings will be most evident. The cost is low, and the benefit is high. Your mind will be far more at ease driving with precision. Ralph Hertle Edison, NJ Re: 97 Max. Needs Work @ 150K > Hello All, > [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > Thanks, > Paul Paul: I had the axles, CV joints, boots, and bushings replaced on my (100K) 97 Max, and the cost without the extra labor due to wrong parts, and without the bushings was more than $800. Then there was the extra car rental time. While your suspension is being worked on you may want to replace the worn front suspension control arm and front anti-sway bar stock rubber bushings with new solid polyurethane bushings offered by EnergySuspension. That will provide you with a marked improvement in steering precision and control over uneven roads and in air buffeting from side winds and semis. Be sure that they send you the parts with the right part numbers. They sent me the wrong parts, and the mechanic had to keep my car on the lift for three extra days while the new parts were sent. Be sure that you get the special EnergySuspension grease for the bushings. Otherwise the squeaking sounds made by the bushings will be most evident. The cost is low, and the benefit is high. Your mind will be far more at ease driving with precision. Ralph Hertle Edison, NJ |
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