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Car Forum / Nissan / Nissan Maxima / July 200795 Maxima problem
On the way home.....battery line and brake light came on. Shut off.....did start. Manage to get home, and car did start again. Battery light and brake light still on. Almost appears to be altenator or battery issue. Just had new belt and tensioner installed, and brand new battery. Removed both terminals from battery, and car would start....therefore not altenator. What do you think? 95 maxima SE standard Check fused inside car....suggestions? > On the way home.....battery line and brake light came on. > Shut off.....did start. Manage to get home, and car did start again. Battery [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > 95 maxima SE standard > Check fused inside car....suggestions? Alternator most likely, despite your test. How did you start the car with the battery disconnected (Removed both terminals from battery)? The fuel pump and ignition system require an electric power source (not to mention the ECU). Suspect a failing alternator >> On the way home.....battery line and brake light came on. >> Shut off.....did start. Manage to get home, and car did start again. [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > Alternator most likely, despite your test. Sorry Gary, let me rephrase. I had the car started, then removed both terminals from battery, and car stay running, which normally indicates a GOOD alternator. What is your opinion? The car will be visited a alternator shop tomorrow? I should also not, I drive the car today, lights remain on, car ran fine. I'm puzzled. > How did you start the car with the battery disconnected (Removed both > terminals from battery)? The fuel pump and ignition system require an [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > > > > Alternator most likely, despite your test. > Sorry Gary, let me rephrase. > I had the car started, then removed both terminals from battery, and car > stay running, which normally indicates a GOOD alternator. That's a VERY bad idea on a modern car full of electronics. You should not ever test that way again. It also doesn't mean the alternator is putting out the right voltage. Find someone with a volt meter. Turn the headlights on and measure across the battery at idle and at 2000 RPM. It should stay between 13.2 and 14.8. >> Sorry Gary, let me rephrase. >> I had the car started, then removed both terminals from battery, and car [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > headlights on and measure across the battery at idle and at 2000 RPM. It > should stay between 13.2 and 14.8. Ah... he proved that your f.cking claim of bad alternator was wrong, and your dumb dickhead still thinks you're right again f.cker. When are you going to grow up? You ain't no expert a.s wipe. >>> Sorry Gary, let me rephrase. >>> I had the car started, then removed both terminals from battery, and car [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > your dumb dickhead still thinks you're right again f.cker. When are you > going to grow up? You ain't no expert a.s wipe. Tell ya what smart a.s, disconnect your battery and go for a long drive. Let us know how you make out. I've only been an engineer for 30 years. I try to help people out. What do you do to add value here? Run your mouth off and swear like a trucker. Yea, we're all impressed. Grow up. ps: if you look down a few, you'll see I was right about the alt. >>>> Sorry Gary, let me rephrase. >>>> I had the car started, then removed both terminals from battery, and car [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > >ps: if you look down a few, you'll see I was right about the alt. 30 plus engineer here to - built the space shuttle and most of the aircraft that protect foul mouthed AHs like him. Amazing what idiots will post on the newsgroups. >>>>> Sorry Gary, let me rephrase. >>>>> I had the car started, then removed both terminals from battery, and car [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > > Amazing what idiots will post on the newsgroups. It's obvious you have misdirected anger. You should consider talking to a therapist. Nah...that would cost us too much money. I say put a parachute on him with the American Flag and drop him from a plane into the middle of Baghdad and see how he does out there on his own!! >> Sorry Gary, let me rephrase. >> I had the car started, then removed both terminals from battery, and car [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > headlights on and measure across the battery at idle and at 2000 RPM. It > should stay between 13.2 and 14.8. Full of electronics? Bullshit only two major (Audio and MicroComputer), that's is fine, but you haven't been to electronic school idiot. Listen, there is a rectifier and dc regulator on the alternator which means it can replace the battery sufficiently, its job is to recharge the battery, Electronics do not consume so much energy plus it has finer filter, therefore alternator power source can be equal to battery no matter what your dickhead thinks. I admire his approach to test the alternator that way. You don't like it? That's your problem. Don't give your sh.t to the group when you know nothing about car f.cker. Odds are the alternator output is low, or you're missing a phase. This can cause the battery to look bad (does not seem to hold a charge). As long as the battery is in there, the biggest problem is it may run down and your car may not start... > Sorry Gary, let me rephrase. > I had the car started, then removed both terminals from battery, and car [quoted text clipped - 30 lines] >> > >> > Alternator most likely, despite your test. I will post the verdict tomorrow after I return from the Alternator repair shop. Cheers > Odds are the alternator output is low, or you're missing a phase. This can > cause the battery to look bad (does not seem to hold a charge). As long as [quoted text clipped - 35 lines] > >> > > >> > Alternator most likely, despite your test. Had alternator checked to one location......13.8 V....said it was good. Went to another location.........13.8V....then with his tester he began to drain the alternator (as if wipers, a/c, lights were on) then it dropped to 11V. He confidently said the alternator needed repair. It is now in the shop. Cheers > I will post the verdict tomorrow after I return from the Alternator repair > shop. [quoted text clipped - 43 lines] > > >> > > > >> > Alternator most likely, despite your test. > Had alternator checked to one location......13.8 V....said it was good. > [quoted text clipped - 57 lines] > > - Show quoted text - Not sure if this pertains to your yr maxima, but you might want to check. I have a 97 Max and there was a re-call on the alternator. Nissan replaced it at no charge. Just a thought.... -paul Had this problem a number of times during the 125,000 miles I owned my 1992 Max SE 5sp. In each case it was a blown fuses that controls the instrument cluster. Car ran fine with out the fuse but replacing the fuse fixed the problem. Never did replace the alternator and the car ran and started well during 12 New England winters with temperatures as low as -20F. Test the fuses under the hood. > On the way home.....battery line and brake light came on. > Shut off.....did start. Manage to get home, and car did start again. [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > 95 maxima SE standard > Check fused inside car....suggestions? Alternator shop indicated the regulator was gone in the alternator. > Had this problem a number of times during the 125,000 miles I owned my 1992 > Max SE 5sp. In each case it was a blown fuses that controls the instrument [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > > 95 maxima SE standard > > Check fused inside car....suggestions? |
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