>>> I have a 2000 Maxima with a squeaky suspension. I have been spraying
>>> various fittings with WD-40, and I think that the noises are mostly
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> WD-40 in fact IS a lubricant... just as kerosene is! Even water is a
> lubricant...

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Steve
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>>>> I have a 2000 Maxima with a squeaky suspension. I have been spraying
>>>> various fittings with WD-40, and I think that the noises are mostly
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
>Fill the oil pan of the engine with water and lets see how long it lasts.
>:-)
Not as long as filling with kerosene... but longer than with no
lubricant at all I'd imagine ;-))
>The point was this "lubricant" doesn't have enough pressure resistance for
>this application therefor it isn't acting as a lubricant for this
>application. For something like a throtle cable it might be fine but for
>anything with pressure on it, it's useless.
But, as Rick pointed out, it does work... for a while, until it washes
out, so this isn't it's problem. My point is, any lubricant will
squeeze or wash out, leaving the squeak, possibly even worse than
before. The only real solution is to replace the hardened bushing
with a "self-lubricating" type of bushing.
BuddyWh
Steve T - 07 Mar 2004 14:41 GMT
> But, as Rick pointed out, it does work... for a while, until it washes
> out, so this isn't it's problem. My point is, any lubricant will
> squeeze or wash out, leaving the squeak, possibly even worse than
> before. The only real solution is to replace the hardened bushing
> with a "self-lubricating" type of bushing.
Do you realise many of these cars don't have a bushing per say but are using
ball socket type -metal- links for the swap bar end links? Be kinda hard to
replace them with "self-lubricating" type of bushing and using a low
pressure lubricant that evaporates -is- a bad idea...

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Steve
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BuddyWh - 08 Mar 2004 02:25 GMT
>> But, as Rick pointed out, it does work... for a while, until it washes
>> out, so this isn't it's problem. My point is, any lubricant will
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>replace them with "self-lubricating" type of bushing and using a low
>pressure lubricant that evaporates -is- a bad idea...
Well.. to be sure it never dawned on me that it was the ball joint end
he was talking about. Since spraying WD40 on it worked for a while, I
was sure it was the bushings he talking about. I couldn't see WD40
working at all on the ball joint... if for no other reason, then
simply cause I don't see how he could get it into the joint... is
there an easily removed boot on it?
If not... how the heck do you get grease into it?
BuddyWh
Steve T - 07 Mar 2004 23:53 GMT
>then
> simply cause I don't see how he could get it into the joint... is
> there an easily removed boot on it?
No, the boots tear and the grease gets washed out. Sometimes spraying a
thick water resistant grease into them (I use a product called Mystic JT-6,
it has a light carrier that evaporates and leaves a heavy grease) will
quiet them for a quite a while. The best solution is to replace the end
links.

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Steve
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CW - 08 Mar 2004 03:08 GMT
I had suspension noise which I ultimately traced to the ball joint on
the front sway bar end link. At one point, rainy days would minimize
the noise and certain, penetrating spray in the area did as well. I
though for sure that it was the bushings of the front sway bar but on
closer inspection one day, i noticed that the boot of the ball joint
was torn. I found further that the ball joint in the end link had
rusted to the point where it was easy to separate. Luckily, the end
links are cheap to buy and easy to replace. That cured the squeeking
(actually, it was more like creaking) that I got. Bottom line, if the
boot on the endlink is compromised the joint therein will rust out and
cause noise.
CW