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Car Forum / Nissan / Nissan Maxima / March 2004

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platinum plugs

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Pony - 09 Mar 2004 03:40 GMT
Do they need to be replaced at 60k or at 100k? I thought they last for 100k
miles but the dealer is saying to change at 60k.  Does anyone know?

I have a 2000 Maxima SE.
Bob - 09 Mar 2004 05:17 GMT
> Do they need to be replaced at 60k or at 100k? I thought they last for 100k
> miles but the dealer is saying to change at 60k.  Does anyone know?
>
> I have a 2000 Maxima SE.

according to the mechanics in 2 Nissan dealers in twin cities,  the plugs
are too hard to remove at 100k.
they freeze up.
JM - 11 Mar 2004 17:03 GMT
> > Do they need to be replaced at 60k or at 100k? I thought they last for
>  100k
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> are too hard to remove at 100k.
> they freeze up.

True for all cars, not just Nissan.  There's going to be an epidemic
of stuck plugs if people use the 100,000 mile recommendation.

At the very least, break them loose at 60K and reseat them.  Even
better to pull them out, and put on some anti-seize compound & reuse.
The plugs are pretty expensive to just throw them away.

JM
Steve T - 11 Mar 2004 22:47 GMT
>> > Do they need to be replaced at 60k or at 100k? I thought they last for
>>  100k
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> At the very least, break them loose at 60K and reseat them.  Even
> better to pull them out, and put on some anti-seize compound & reuse.

NGK says -do not- use antiseize on their plugs.
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Steve

http://www.atlantaracing.com

BuddyWh - 13 Mar 2004 00:12 GMT
>NGK says -do not- use antiseize on their plugs.

wow... any indication as to why?

sounds like I should try to avoid NGK plugs... rather use something
else than take chances on stripping out the heads...

BuddyWh
Steve T - 13 Mar 2004 00:31 GMT
>>NGK says -do not- use antiseize on their plugs.
>
> wow... any indication as to why?

It's the plating they use and the advanced thread rolling technique used to
make them. The threads are smooth instead of sharp like cut threads have.
The cut threads and/or unplated plugs are the kind that need antiseize to
keep them from getting stuck.

> sounds like I should try to avoid NGK plugs... rather use something
> else than take chances on stripping out the heads...



??? How many heads have you seen stripped from using NGK plugs?

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Steve

http://www.atlantaracing.com

BuddyWh - 14 Mar 2004 12:21 GMT
>>>NGK says -do not- use antiseize on their plugs.
>>
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>
>??? How many heads have you seen stripped from using NGK plugs?

Did I say I've seen any???

You stated that NGK says do NOT (my emphasis) use anti-seize.  Now it
sounds more like it's optional.  I'll choose antiseize... I stripped
two sparkplug holes in aluminum heads before I learned the lesson.

BuddyWh
Codifus - 14 Mar 2004 18:39 GMT
>>>>NGK says -do not- use antiseize on their plugs.
>>>
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>
> BuddyWh

Do you use a TQ wrench when tightening down the park plugs? The spec for
the 98 Maxima is 16-22 ft/lbs. Had I not used a TQ wrench I'm pretty
sure I would have over-tightend my plugs by quite a bit, b/c 16-22
ft/lbs ain't much TQ at all, really. Also, another thing I do when I'm
initially threading in a plug is to turn the plug anti-clockwise until I
feel the plug seat itself into the threads, then I resume the normal
procedure of tightening them down.

CD
Steve T - 14 Mar 2004 23:58 GMT
> You stated that NGK says do NOT (my emphasis) use anti-seize.  Now it
> sounds more like it's optional.  

No, they said in some techincal literature I read they recomend -not- using
antiseize and explained why. Of course you can ignore their recomendations
if you think you know more about sparkplug design than they do! :-)
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BuddyWh - 16 Mar 2004 01:37 GMT
>> You stated that NGK says do NOT (my emphasis) use anti-seize.  Now it
>> sounds more like it's optional.  
>
>No, they said in some techincal literature I read they recomend -not- using
>antiseize and explained why. Of course you can ignore their recomendations
>if you think you know more about sparkplug design than they do! :-)

A recommendation is still a recommendation... it is not a
requirement... it is given assuming the receiver knows enough to apply
it wisely.

Do you even know what anti-seize does?


Steve T - 15 Mar 2004 21:38 GMT
>>> You stated that NGK says do NOT (my emphasis) use anti-seize.  Now it
>>> sounds more like it's optional.
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> A recommendation is still a recommendation... it is not a
> requirement...

Like I said if you know more about this than they do, more power to ya.

> Do you even know what anti-seize does?

Uh, pretty self explainitory doncha think?.

Do you know what's in it? It's a pretty abrasive material and with repeated
use can -cause- thread wear on soft materials, like aluminum heads. This is
why NGK recomends not to use it.  IMHO it should never be used unless it's
specified such as on O2 sensor threads. YMMV
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Steve

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BuddyWh - 16 Mar 2004 03:25 GMT
>>>> You stated that NGK says do NOT (my emphasis) use anti-seize.  Now it
>>>> sounds more like it's optional.
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>
>Like I said if you know more about this than they do, more power to ya.

I guess 20 years engineering experience counts for something.

>> Do you even know what anti-seize does?
>
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>why NGK recomends not to use it.  IMHO it should never be used unless it's
>specified such as on O2 sensor threads. YMMV

Interesting.... I'd like to see this NGK 'technical' document.  
Steve T - 16 Mar 2004 23:49 GMT
>>Like I said if you know more about this than they do, more power to ya.
>
> I guess 20 years engineering experience counts for something.

So we can assume by this statement you've designed spark plugs?

>>This is
>>why NGK recomends not to use it.  

> Interesting.... I'd like to see this NGK 'technical' document.

I'll forward it to you later this week.

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BuddyWh - 17 Mar 2004 13:13 GMT
>>>Like I said if you know more about this than they do, more power to ya.
>>
>> I guess 20 years engineering experience counts for something.
>
>So we can assume by this statement you've designed spark plugs?

You may assume this...in which case you would be wrong. But my
experience helps to critically read technical documents better than
most.

>>>This is
>>>why NGK recomends not to use it.  
>
>> Interesting.... I'd like to see this NGK 'technical' document.
>
>I'll forward it to you later this week.

Which is what I'm interested in.

BuddyWh
JM - 18 Mar 2004 05:06 GMT
The "special plating" is not unique to NGK; others also use a coating
to prevent seizing.

Unfortunately, this plating is good for one-time use.  If you break
the plug loose, and reseat it for another 40,000+ miles, it may stick.

I understand anti-seize compound to be ultrafine aluminum suspended in
a petroleum base which will burn off.  What's not to conduct?

I used anti-seize at 67,000 miles.  Car now has 94,500.  No
operational change and I KNOW the plugs would come out if I want them
to.  That's good enough for me.

JM
maxima1 - 18 Mar 2004 14:49 GMT
> I understand anti-seize compound to be ultrafine aluminum suspended in
> a petroleum base which will burn off.  What's not to conduct?

If indeed the petroleum base "burns off" at water-cooled head
temperatures (this has not been my experience), I would assume that
the aluminum dust would now be subject to oxidation. Aluminum oxide is
in fact an insulator. It is an amorphous form of sapphire, which is
hard and does not conduct electricity. You can test it yourself with
an ohmmeter and the surface of an old screen door that's been exposed
to the elements for years.

Now it might seem that the reason that anti-sieze limits electrolysis
is due to the insulation properties---you can't have electrolysis
without conduction. Has anyone tried measuring the resistance of a
glop of anti-sieze?

More important--anything that limits current flow would be bad for a
spark plug.

Matthew
2k1 max se
BuddyWh - 18 Mar 2004 17:18 GMT
As the sparkplug is tightend, the threads will displace anti-seize and
there will be metal to metal contact along the thread face that is gas
tight, assuring good electrical contact so long as the plug doesn't
loosen.  

I think you will find the antiseize's primary function is to seal off
the small gaps between the  roots and peaks of the threads.  Exhaust
gasses leach into this gap, leaving corrosive deposits that either
start corrosion or harden under high temp and pressures.

It's all well and good that NGK plates their sparkplugs... but there
is no such plating on the aluminum head so corrosion can start if
there is even a tiny pinhole discontinuity in the plating of the
threads.  That is very easy to see happening on the peaks of the
threads as the plug is handled and inserted into the sparkplug well.

I'm not the only person to contend with stripped threads while using
NGK plugs... I've also seen an example where NGK plugs were hard
seized in a Jaguar cylinder head.  The plug threaded shell completely
broke off, staying behind in the aluminum cylinder head.  

So their system is hardly fool-proof: I think if it were NGK would
have no problem publishing their recommendation and offering a
guarantee that their plugs will not seize. Until then: I use
anti-seize!

BuddyWh

 

>> I understand anti-seize compound to be ultrafine aluminum suspended in
>> a petroleum base which will burn off.  What's not to conduct?
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>Matthew
>2k1 max se
maxima1 - 16 Mar 2004 19:00 GMT
> Do you know what's in it? It's a pretty abrasive material and with repeated
> use can -cause- thread wear on soft materials, like aluminum heads. This is
> why NGK recomends not to use it.  

Umm, at 100,000 miles per change (or even 60,000) I would think the
wear from "repeated use" would not be too significant. I tend to think
the special plating that prevents electrolysis would be the rationale
for not needing the ant-sieze grease.

matthew
2k1 max se
Steve T - 16 Mar 2004 23:46 GMT
> Umm, at 100,000 miles per change (or even 60,000) I would think the
> wear from "repeated use" would not be too significant.

Well when I read this, the change intervals were more like 15,000 to 30,000.

> I tend to think
> the special plating that prevents electrolysis would be the rationale
> for not needing the ant-sieze grease.


Exactly. Maybe they think the abrasive qualities of that stuff could damage
that coating? Or affect the heat tranfer? Unfortunatly NGK has none of
their tech publications availible on the web. I've requested this tech pub
from them, will see what they say.

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Steve

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BuddyWh - 17 Mar 2004 13:30 GMT
>> Do you know what's in it? It's a pretty abrasive material and with repeated
>> use can -cause- thread wear on soft materials, like aluminum heads. This is
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>the special plating that prevents electrolysis would be the rationale
>for not needing the ant-sieze grease.

True... also, many anti-seize compounds don't have an abrasive feel to
them.  This is what leads mfr's to suggest not using an anti-seize as
they contend the slippery anti-seize may lead to over torquing.  But
that is only a suggestion... they (usually) go further, stating that
if you DO use anti-seize you should carefully install using a torque
wrench (always a good idea when installing plugs into aluminum heads),
sometimes to a lower torque value.  

Which is kind of why I'm interested is seeing that NGK technical
document he has... I want the whole story!

>matthew
>2k1 max se
02maxi6spd - 13 Mar 2004 05:06 GMT
Anti sieze is typically not electrically conductive and negatively affects
spark on ALL plugs, not just NGK plugs.  I use motor oil on the threads and
replace every 60k miles.  The NKG plugs are about $10/each if you shop
around for OEM platinum plugs.  Well worth $60 not to have a problem with
broken plugs due to excessive thermal cycling.

Stay away from cheap aftermarket and Bosch plugs.  Use Denso or NGK.

> >> > Do they need to be replaced at 60k or at 100k? I thought they last for
> >>  100k
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>
> NGK says -do not- use antiseize on their plugs.
BuddyWh - 14 Mar 2004 12:30 GMT
>Anti sieze is typically not electrically conductive and negatively affects
>spark on ALL plugs, not just NGK plugs.  I use motor oil on the threads and
>replace every 60k miles.  The NKG plugs are about $10/each if you shop
>around for OEM platinum plugs.  Well worth $60 not to have a problem with
>broken plugs due to excessive thermal cycling.

Why would motor oil be more conductive than anti-seize??  

>Stay away from cheap aftermarket and Bosch plugs.  Use Denso or NGK.

I agree...   I've found this true with any Japanese car I've owned...
Denso or NGK have always performed better, longer.

BuddyWh

>> >> > Do they need to be replaced at 60k or at 100k? I thought they last
>for
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>>
>> NGK says -do not- use antiseize on their plugs.
 
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