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Car Forum / Nissan / Nissan Maxima / March 20042000 Maxima Brake job
I have a 2000 GLE. I want to replace all the rotors (warping problem with factory rotors) and the brake pads. I do not want the top of the line, racing rotors or pads. I just want standard - stop me from dying pads and rotors. Does anyone out there have any suggestions? I am not cheap, just don't feel like spending 800 bucks on my rotors! Thanks. D > I have a 2000 GLE. I want to replace all the rotors (warping problem > with factory rotors) and the brake pads. I do not want the top of [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > Thanks. > D try looking at what this website has to offer, you just configure your car on the left. http://www.nopionline.com/nopistore/ -- http://www.anti-leech.com/spam/spambot_stopper.php I put Brembo rotors on the front due to the same problems you describe. Haven't had a problem since. I seem to recall that they were less than $80 each. I stayed with the Nissan pads, which seem to produce far less dust than other aftermarket pads that I have tried. > I have a 2000 GLE. I want to replace all the rotors (warping problem with > factory rotors) and the brake pads. I do not want the top of the line, > racing rotors or pads. I just want standard - stop me from dying pads and > rotors. Does anyone out there have any suggestions? I am not cheap, just > don't feel like spending 800 bucks on my rotors! Thanks. > D Is replacing the rotors and brake pads something that I could do myself? I don't have much experience with brake work, but is there a how-to out there for replacing them on the max? Thanks D > I put Brembo rotors on the front due to the same problems you > describe. Haven't had a problem since. I seem to recall that they [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > don't feel like spending 800 bucks on my rotors! Thanks. > > D Pads are pretty easy. All you need to do is take off the wheel and unbolt the caliper. On my 1996 is 2 12mm bolts I think. Then install the new pads. You will need a caliper spreader. AutoZone has them for a few bucks. Also dont forget to take the refill cap off the Master Cylinder before spreading the calipers. You could potentially bust a seal if you dont. Put a rag up there to soak up any overflow when you spread the caliper. I cant imagine that the rotors are hard to get off. I am fixing to do this myself having just bought some SP Diamond Cut Rotors and Axxis Ceramic Pads. I dont remember what you have to do to get the pressure back in the brake system when you are done. I am sure some one here will know???? Just keep this in mind if you are doing brakes and not sure on how everything works, do one side at a time. That way you always have a control go and look at if you get lost. Warner > Is replacing the rotors and brake pads something that I could do myself? I > don't have much experience with brake work, but is there a how-to out there [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > > > don't feel like spending 800 bucks on my rotors! Thanks. > > > D Your kind of in luck. I found a link to a "How To" for a 1995 Max. How different can the braking system be??? :) Anyway it is probably a good reference. http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/300 > Is replacing the rotors and brake pads something that I could do myself? I > don't have much experience with brake work, but is there a how-to out there [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > > > don't feel like spending 800 bucks on my rotors! Thanks. > > > D How different is the rear brake job from the front? I have seen a few examples of the front, which look doable. I just don't know about the back! Thanks. > Your kind of in luck. I found a link to a "How To" for a 1995 Max. How > different can the braking system be??? :) Anyway it is probably a good [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > > > > don't feel like spending 800 bucks on my rotors! Thanks. > > > > D The back is a little trickier but nothing too bad. The piston on the caliper is compressed by turning it. You have to use a special tool or a needle nose pliers. You have to turn the piston slowly because the boot can become twisted and even rip. Other than that, you just need to unhook the E-brake line. CW >How different is the rear brake job from the front? I have seen a few >examples of the front, which look doable. I just don't know about the back! >Thanks. As I recall, the rear job was easier in that the calipers could be retracted using a large C-clamp. The fronts need special, although cheap, tool to screw the pistons back to the retracted position. If you have any mechanical ability at all you should be fine. As you take the whole assembly apart it will become apparent what you need to do. Of course, if you are anything like me, one of those things will include at least a couple trips to the auto parts store to pick up something you forgot the first time out. Finally, as is the case with all mechanical jobs, there should be no parts left over after you put everything back together. ;-) > How different is the rear brake job from the front? I have seen a few > examples of the front, which look doable. I just don't know about the back! [quoted text clipped - 33 lines] > > > > > don't feel like spending 800 bucks on my rotors! Thanks. > > > > > D I think you recall it backwards. The fronts push back in with a clamp (I like to use a big slip joint (channel lock) pliers that I happen to already have). The rears screw back into the caliper. A needle nosed pliers is all you really need to screw it back. Be careful not to mess up the rubber seal around the piston when you are screwing it. Make sure the caliper pins move in and out freely before you put it all back together, or the brakes will wear unevenly. On 3/25/04 8:48 AM, in article 7f4e6ea0.0403250648.736c96da@posting.google.com, "Feynmanfan" <feynmanfan88@yahoo.com> wrote: > As I recall, the rear job was easier in that the calipers could be > retracted using a large C-clamp. The fronts need special, although [quoted text clipped - 46 lines] >>>>>> don't feel like spending 800 bucks on my rotors! Thanks. >>>>>> D Speaking of forgeting stuff. You just reminded me I forgot to get high temp grease at the auto store last night. Dangit!!! Onward through the fog. Warner > As I recall, the rear job was easier in that the calipers could be > retracted using a large C-clamp. The fronts need special, although [quoted text clipped - 46 lines] > > > > > > don't feel like spending 800 bucks on my rotors! Thanks. > > > > > > D I'm having the same warping problems for the second time on my '01 GLE. The first time, I was around 30,000 miles and Nissan fixed it under warranty (IIRC, there was a TSB concerning the brakes that they also fixed). I'm now at 88,500 miles. Are the Brembo rotors mentioned below the same as these?: http://www.nopionline.com/nopistore/dsp_large_pic.cfm?vpic=LBremboRotor.jpg I ask because nopionline.com has them for $43 each and I want to make sure that I get the right ones. Thanks.  SignatureRegards, Henry -------> hldevereux@spamfreeyahoo.com > I put Brembo rotors on the front due to the same problems you > describe. Haven't had a problem since. I seem to recall that they [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > don't feel like spending 800 bucks on my rotors! Thanks. > > D I can't say for sure, but when I bought my Brembo's I chose the bottom of the line and they look like the linked picture. I recall having paid more than $43, but certainly less than $100 each. I'd say go with the ones you have found. They couldn't be any worse than the crappy ones the dealer would sell you! Good luck > I'm having the same warping problems for the second time on my '01 GLE. The > first time, I was around 30,000 miles and Nissan fixed it under warranty [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). > Version: 6.0.634 / Virus Database: 406 - Release Date: 3/18/2004 |
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