Check all fuses.  Should be two lots one in car, one in engine bay.
Some in engine bay fuse box are in plastic cases with clear top lids.
Not likely but check fusible links on battery connection.

Air - check idle and extra air systems are clean and clear.  Though if
it ran before it shouldn't be a problem.

Spark - take coil packs off and plugs out, put plugs in coil packs,
rest plugs on cambox and crank engine - look for sparks.  If you have
none at all check fuses, check connections, if they are OK you may
have killed the ignition amplifier.  If it's just one or two swap coil
packs and plugs around, if the lack of spark moves with the coil pack
it's the coil pack, if it moves with the plug it's the plug (not going
to happen with NGK), if it stays put it's ignition amp or connection
or wiring loom.

Extract ECU and get check codes.  When these older ECU's say a system
is bad it's not always the sensor - that can be way out of calibration
and not cause a check code.  They only detect major failure modes like
open/short circuit or lack of power/earth that gives no or max signal.
So it's often a fuse or poor earth, poor connection or break in loom.

Fuel - if it starts, runs for a few seconds and then dies on a shot of
easy start (ether) in the air filter then it's not getting any fuel.
Check fuses. Check fuel pressure.  Listen for clicks from injectors
when turned over - need a length of dowel or plastic rod to use as a
sounding rod between injector body and ear.

Question to the original poster

Does the radio and or clock work?

I heard a story from a friend that was doing electrical work to the vehicle.
He disconnected the battery, did the work,  then he reconnected the battery
in the wrong order.  The car would not start, the radio and clock did not
work either.  The only fix was to disconnect the battery and reconnect it in
the proper order.  What order that is I do not know.  Try the negative lead
first.

-LJ