alternator wire question for Steve

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none - 25 Jun 2005 12:23 GMT

Hello Steve,
I have checked the two connectors for my 1987 300ZX NA. The connector that
housing two heavy gauge white wires has power (upstream toward the battery).
The other connector housing just one wire (blk) smaller gauge wire and it is
a ground. The last wire you mentioned is "brw/wht" small wire channel
through harness and is propably run to indicator light.
So, since I have 12 volts (upstream) at the connector (white wires) that
means my fusible link is good. right?
The other connector is ground wire. Not hot. Please confirm

Thanks Steve,

Paul

____________________________________________________________________________
____________________
There is a black box in the fender wall locate just infront of my battery.

> The print on the cover is badly faded. Could someone tell me what are
> these
> fusible links for? Does it has anything to do with my alternator problem?
> I am trying to solve my alternator charging problem. I am wondering if
> there is a relay or fusible link etc..(not sure if it has one). There is
> a sub-harness running form the back of my alternator to a connector that
> position just in front of the battery. Where does it goes after? Through
> the firewall to a relay?

No relay but there is a fusable link between the alt and the battery. You
can check for power at that subharness connector you mentioned. If the big
wire has power, the fusable link is fine. There are 2 other small wires,
one should be hot and the other is the signal for the idiot light that the
alternator grounds to turn the light on. 99% of the "alternator problems" I
see on these cars is from the use of aftermarket reman alternators. I've
yet to find -any- that are worth installing.

--

Steve

http://www.atlantaracing.com

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Steve T - 25 Jun 2005 19:31 GMT

> Hello Steve,
> I have checked the two connectors for my 1987 300ZX NA. The connector
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> a ground. The last wire you mentioned is "brw/wht" small wire channel
> through harness and is propably run to indicator light.

So does this have power?

> So, since I have 12 volts (upstream) at the connector (white wires) that
> means my fusible link is good. right?

Right.

> The other connector is ground wire. Not hot. Please confirm

The black wire is a ground to the alternator case. There should be 2 smaller
wires going to the alternator, one hot and the other from the idiot light
which the alternator grounds to turn on the idiot light. Both will have 12V
with the key on, one will turn on the idiot light when grounded, the other
will "short" if grounded and probably pop the fuse. I don't have a wiring
diagram here to tell you which color is which.

Signature

Steve

http://www.atlantaracing.com

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none - 25 Jun 2005 23:12 GMT

Thanks I will check it again with the key on..

> > Hello Steve,
> > I have checked the two connectors for my 1987 300ZX NA. The connector
[quoted text clipped - 25 lines]
>
> http://www.atlantaracing.com

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none - 26 Jun 2005 18:47 GMT

I have checked with the key on and there is power "ON" the brw/white has
power.

For sure: there are 4 wires in total.
2 heavy gauge white wires (both has 12 volts)
1 black wire (GND)
1 brw/white (12 volts with key ON)

Am I looking at the alternator as faulty now?
I have heard from other NIssan owner that 1990 - 1992 Maxima's alternator
can be used on my Nissan and possible Nissan Path Finder up to 1995 as well.
Is it true?

> Thanks I will check it again with the key on..
> >
[quoted text clipped - 29 lines]
> >
> > http://www.atlantaracing.com

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Steve T - 26 Jun 2005 21:01 GMT

> I have checked with the key on and there is power "ON" the brw/white has
> power.
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> Am I looking at the alternator as faulty now?

Sounds like it to me..

> I have heard from other NIssan owner that 1990 - 1992 Maxima's alternator
> can be used on my Nissan and possible Nissan Path Finder up to 1995 as
> well. Is it true?

No idea on that one.

Signature

Steve

http://www.atlantaracing.com

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none - 26 Jun 2005 22:01 GMT

I have taken the alternator apart. The alternator removal job is not as bad
as I have thought. I have follow few simple steps as I have discussed the
procedure with you. The only change I have done here is drop the stabilizer
bar instead of the cooling fan.
1/ Disconnect battery
2/ drop front stabilizer bar
3/ start remove alternator belt and alternator.

I have decided to separate my alternator to see what is wrong with this unit
and if it is repairable. Well it is not too pretty. Now I understand why
it have failed. There is an excessive oil residue in the brush and rotor
contact area. One of the brush has so much build up of dirt that it
actually carving the copper rotor. I can have my alternator working again
if I can buy just the rotor assembly and a set of new brush. If the new
rotor option is not possible, a new alternator it is.

Thx to Steve again.

> > I have checked with the key on and there is power "ON" the brw/white has
> > power.
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
>
> http://www.atlantaracing.com

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