5 speed Trans Help Needed

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duckbill - 23 Dec 2005 16:08 GMT

I'm having some problems replacing the output seal in my 85ZX 2+2.
Everything is so tight, it looks like the exhaust system has to be removed
to remove the driveshaft or is there another way? Any tricks to remove the
rear seal (factory service manual shows removing the rear transmission
extension and then replacing the seal? Also, does anyone know of any
special tools to remove the 17mm sqare fill plug on this transmission, my
son paid the Nissan dealer $86 and they could not get it out. (I'm looking
for an 8 point or square socket). Thanks in advance for any assistance and
Happy Holidays.

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Steve T - 24 Dec 2005 05:03 GMT

> I'm having some problems replacing the output seal in my 85ZX 2+2.
> Everything is so tight, it looks like the exhaust system has to be removed
> to remove the driveshaft or is there another way?

No other way, you have to remove the exhaust , converter, e-brake cable and
heat shield to get it out.

> Any tricks to remove
> the rear seal (factory service manual shows removing the rear transmission
> extension and then replacing the seal?

You should be able to get it out with a seal puller.

> Also, does anyone know of any
> special tools to remove the 17mm sqare fill plug on this transmission,

I had to make one. An 8 sided one won't work. The problem is ONLY snap on
tools makes wrenches that don't spread when you pull in them, and even they
won't work everytime.

> my
> son paid the Nissan dealer $86 and they could not get it out.

Heat the case around the plug good and hot with a heat gun or propane torch
and go after it with a pipe wrench with a cheater bar on it. You could also
try driving the car at high speeds (interstate) for a while to heat up the
gearbox. It should come out as it was probably tighened at some point when
the case was still hot.

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Steve

http://www.atlantaracing.com

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duckbill - 24 Dec 2005 17:37 GMT

Thanks for all the help Steve; I was trying to avoid removing the exhaust
system and was hopeing to get enough clearance to pull the driveshaft out
just enough to replace the seal. There is quite a large access hole from
above and again thought I might be able to do the seal from that access?
I have managed to pull the driveshaft out about two inches, but need three
to four inches I bet? The exh systen is pretty new but the converter bolts
and forward pipe to manifold bolts have never been removed. I don't want
to break those exh manifold studs. Heat is the answer here, right?
Thanks again.

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Steve T - 25 Dec 2005 05:17 GMT

> Thanks for all the help Steve; I was trying to avoid removing the exhaust
> system and was hopeing to get enough clearance to pull the driveshaft out
> just enough to replace the seal. There is quite a large access hole from
> above and again thought I might be able to do the seal from that access?

No way that's going to happen.

> I don't want
> to break those exh manifold studs. Heat is the answer here, right?

Yes and an air impact gun if you have one is less likely to break them then
doing it by hand. Soak them with "PB Blaster" a few times before you go
after them, WD40 is a joke for rusty bolts.

I actually prefer BG products "in force" but it's hard for a consumer to
find. Best rust buster I've ever seen, the stuff is AMAZING. You might be
able to contact a local distributor and find out where you can buy some
locally?

http://www.bgprod.com/products/aerosol.html

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Steve

http://www.atlantaracing.com

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duckbill - 24 Dec 2005 23:14 GMT

Of course the dealer sold me the wrong transmission oil seal. The one I
need comes with a big metal collar that covers part of the drive shaft.
The books are not clear on this and lead you to believe the seal comes out
of the collar....not so...all one piece. Well, I had some good luck today
after hours of frustration. After removing the intermediate pipe and
muffler, I took a chance and the drive shaft slid back in there (where the
exh pipe was) like it was made for it to be done. The rear seal with its
collar slid off from above through the shifter hole with just a tiny bit
of coaxing with a flat bladed screwdriver. I was so very close to going to
a muffler shop to get the whole exhaust system removed. Whew!

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Steve T - 25 Dec 2005 05:19 GMT

> Of course the dealer sold me the wrong transmission oil seal. The one I
> need comes with a big metal collar that covers part of the drive shaft.

The smaller one will work fine if the seal itself is right. That big metal
part isn't maditory.

> Well, I had some good luck today
> after hours of frustration. After removing the intermediate pipe and
> muffler, I took a chance and the drive shaft slid back in there (where the
> exh pipe was) like it was made for it to be done.

Yep that way is a fight. I'd never do it that way but glad it worked out..

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Steve

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duckbill - 25 Dec 2005 15:19 GMT

Thanks again Steve. The two seals are nowhere close in size. I wonder
what the collar (shield) does? Any chance you would share your specs on
your homemade tool for the tranny fill plug? My son was sent away from
the dealer with an $86 bill and never did get oil put in the transmission.
It had been leaking about a half pint every 500 miles. He checked the oil
level 1,000 miles before and had put the plug in too tight using the same
half inch breaker bar that he used to remove it. He tightened it well so
it would not leak you see(opps). So, after 1,000 miles and his inability
to remove the plug, I told him to get the the dealer to service the
transmission. I mean how much could that be when you can get an oil change
for $25, right? They charged him $86 and told he needed all new seals
except the front seal. He also needed a reverse light switch. They told
him they could not get the fill plug out. They sent him out on the road
with low transmission oil. Unreal! But he had the good ideal of adding oil
thru the top of the trans through the shifter access hole before driving
the vehicle over 100 miles to Dad's house.
I plan on sending a complaint letter asking for a $43 refund. Again, I
would love to make my own 4 point socket, size: 17mm or 11/16", any ideas?
I have checked the net for days and lots of people are looking for 4 point
sockets, but can't find them. Why would an 8 point not work?

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Steve T - 25 Dec 2005 18:46 GMT

> Thanks again Steve. The two seals are nowhere close in size. I wonder
> what the collar (shield) does?

It's to keep dirt out of the seal. Lots of cars don't have these and work
fine.

> Any chance you would share your specs on
> your homemade tool for the tranny fill plug?

Basically I took a 17mm wrench and welded a bar across the tips of the open
end so that they can't spread when you pull on it with a long pipe! :-) It
took some work with a square file to get it to fit just right but works
great.

> My son was sent away from
> the dealer with an $86 bill and never did get oil put in the transmission.
> It had been leaking about a half pint every 500 miles. He checked the
> oil
> level 1,000 miles before and had put the plug in too tight using the same
> half inch breaker bar that he used to remove it.

I'm assuming it's the 17mm square type?

> I plan on sending a complaint letter asking for a $43 refund. Again, I
> would love to make my own 4 point socket, size: 17mm or 11/16", any ideas?

See above.

> I have checked the net for days and lots of people are looking for 4
> point
> sockets, but can't find them. Why would an 8 point not work?

It doesn't grip well enough, I've tried them and they aren't what you need.

ALso you can fill the through the reverse light switch hole and get the
level pretty close if it just WON'T come out.

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Steve

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duckbill - 26 Dec 2005 03:26 GMT

Thanks again Steve; I looked at the old seal quite extensively and it looks
good, what gives? Maybe it died of old age?

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Steve T - 26 Dec 2005 07:32 GMT

> Thanks again Steve; I looked at the old seal quite extensively and it
> looks
> good, what gives? Maybe it died of old age?

If it's leaking, then yes it's just old.. Also check the metal plug in the
back of the driveshaft yoke, I've seen a couple of those leaking over the
years which will look like a seal leaking.

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Steve

http://www.atlantaracing.com

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duckbill - 26 Dec 2005 14:51 GMT

Many thanks again Steve, I will look at that plug.

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duckbill - 10 Jan 2006 00:57 GMT

The unused trans plug was fine. With the help of an expert electric welder,
we fabricated a special tool, welding a tip on a 17mm wrench and welded a
half inch drive impact socket over the flat end of the completed wrench.
I had to cut the handle of the wrench off to be able to get the square
tool down in the shallow well in the transmission. With my son pushing a
24" breaker bar with his foot and me using wood to hold the square socket
and breaker bar on the damaged plug, we were able to remove and replace
the damaged plug. Thanks again Steve. I was also able to replace the rear
transmission seal and collar by using a wood 2 by 4 to wedge it in from
above. The only problem is the driver's side strut let loose with fluid
when I dropped it off the jackstands it had been on for 2 weeks. Oh well?

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