Doing rear brake on 87 300 ZX

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300ZX - 20 Oct 2004 12:35 GMT

I am going to replace my rear brake this weekend and would like to confirm a
few steps since I have never done rear disk brake before.
According to Haynes manual,

> remove emergency brake cable off brake caliper lever
> remove brake hose retainer clip to allow more hose movement
> remove bottom slider bolt to tilt the caliper up. remove shims or clips

then remove the brake pads.

> Screw in the piston to create more room for new pads
> Check for slider movement if not remove and grease the slider
> install new pads
> install emergency cable and adjust emergency handle to have no more or

less then 10 clicks to engage the brake.

So I have one question... why do I have to remove the emergency brake cable
to do a brake job?

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Steve T - 20 Oct 2004 17:19 GMT

> I am going to replace my rear brake this weekend and would like to confirm
> a few steps since I have never done rear disk brake before.
> According to Haynes manual,
>> remove emergency brake cable off brake caliper lever

Never done that.

>> remove brake hose retainer clip to allow more hose movement

Never done that.

>> remove bottom slider bolt to tilt the caliper up.

I remove both caliper bolts instead of the above and just pull it off the
rotor. Removing these clips/cables might make this a little easier for
someone who is clumsy?

> remove shims or clips
> then remove the brake pads.

The pads come out THEN the shims/clips.

>> Screw in the piston to create more room for new pads

YES and it's MUCH easier to do if you get the tool for this. Looks like a
cube with different sets of pegs on the face that you put on the end of an
extension. Also get a pick/small screwdriver and lift the dust boot from
the piston and put some sort of lubrication in the groove it seats into so
the piston will rotate without twisting/tearing the boot up. You also have
to line up the slot in the caliper piston at 90 degrees to the rotor once
it's compressed so it will align with the peg on the back of the inner
brake pad. This will be more obvious when you're doing the job.

>> Check for slider movement if not remove and grease the slider
>> install new pads

Yes, I also spray the backs of the pads with "brake quiet" as well.

>> install emergency cable and

see above

> adjust emergency handle to have no more or
> less then 10 clicks to engage the brake.

Don't mess with this until you have driven the car. If the e-brake works now
it shouldn't change from doing a pad change. You DON'T want to get the
cable too tight and DON'T move the e-brake handle till you have pumped the
pedal back up to put the peg on the pad into the slot on the piston. The
arms on the calipers MUST return to their stops, this "less than 10 clicks"
advice is totally bogus.

> So I have one question... why do I have to remove the emergency brake
> cable to do a brake job?

I never have. Same reason this manual tells you to remove the rocker arms to
replace a timing belt, it's a -joke- of a service manual!

Signature

Steve

http://www.atlantaracing.com

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300ZX - 21 Oct 2004 01:46 GMT

Thanks Steve! I will not remove or reset my emergency brake cable. I
thought it is odd myself. You have been a great help in this newsgroup.

P.S. I also have repaired my head lamp switch just as you suggested. Works
great.

Thanks again!

> > I am going to replace my rear brake this weekend and would like to confirm
> > a few steps since I have never done rear disk brake before.
[quoted text clipped - 53 lines]
> I never have. Same reason this manual tells you to remove the rocker arms to
> replace a timing belt, it's a -joke- of a service manual!

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