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Car Forum / Nissan / Nissan Cars / March 2005

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ECU Location & codes 1987 300C Cedric 3 litre V6

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Boanerges303 - 08 Mar 2005 21:27 GMT
Two mechanics have now spent a total of 5 hours on my son's car and we are
not much further on with the engine problem that I described here 20
February. (It starts OK then cuts out after about 2-3 minutes, then starts
instantly, then cuts out again etc.)

Today we were told that the engine coolant temperature sender was not
connected due to corroded terminals so the ECU permanently thinks the
engine is cold.  Bypassing the sensor with a resistor made the engine run
smoother but it still cuts out after a couple of minutes. The mechanic
suspects that there is an ECU fault.

Can anyone tell me please:
1. Where is the Cedric ECU located?
2. How does the self-diagnosis system work i.e. what do I have to do to
get it to perform a self-test? and
3. When I have the readout, how do I interpret it?

As I said a couple of weeks ago, very few Cedrics came to the UK so
owner-maintenance manuals are not available.  I'd really appreciate any
help that you can give me.  Thanks.

Brian
Dorset, England
Tony - 22 Mar 2005 19:19 GMT
Brian,

Been a while since I layed hands on a Cedric.  Working from memory so
forgive me any errors.

ECU was either behind dash on floor centre (tunnel area or behind the NS
kick panel (footwell area).  Self diagnosis conducted by turning a screw (on
ECU) all the way (CW/ACW can't remember) to the end which kicked in the
flash code reader and gave a serious of flash codes.

If one LED is shown then a long flash = 10 and quick blinks = units.  5 long
and 5 short flashes therefore = 55 and was the no fault found code.  Cannot
recall all the others.  Please try ther Nissan dealer again for a manual as
I was sure these were available all be the cost is around ?50.

These types of faults are never easier on older cars as older mechanics with
history of these vehicles are rare.  Plus cars with donor parts (for
elimination) don't regularly visit the workshop.

One thing I would sugest eliminating - the Air flow meter.  Simply unplug it
and then start the engine as this will allow the vehicle to run from
pre-programed data (fail safe mode, allthough it will not rev above 2500 RPM
I think).

Apart from that the fuel pressure regulator may be jaming the flow of fuel
if the diaphragm is rupturted.

That's all I can add

Tony

> Two mechanics have now spent a total of 5 hours on my son's car and we are
> not much further on with the engine problem that I described here 20
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
> Brian
> Dorset, England
 
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