Car Forum / Nissan / Nissan Cars / June 2005
'01 Pathfinder looses power above 4000 RPM.
|
|
Thread rating:  |
Chuck Tribolet - 31 May 2005 05:43 GMT I have an '01 Pathfinder, 3.5L motor, stick shift, 83,000 miles.
The last few days it's been loosing power as it accelerates between 4000 and 4300 RPM, then the power comes back but not 100%. It's most noticable in second gear.
Plugs have never been changed, but they aren't due until 105,000 miles.
I changed the air filter as they are relatively cheap and I had one. It didn't help.
Any thoughts?
Professor - 31 May 2005 13:25 GMT The fuel filter is the first thing I'd replace...
Professor www.telstar-electronics.com
> I have an '01 Pathfinder, 3.5L motor, stick shift, 83,000 miles. > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > Any thoughts? Chuck Tribolet - 02 Jun 2005 04:42 GMT Since the dealer is a little inconveniently located, I pulled out the existing fuel filter, blew backwards through it, and a lot of black crud came out with the gas. I repeated the process a couple of times, put it back, and things seem much better.
Thanks. Fuel filter was on my short list, but behind plugs because there's no specified replacement interval for the filter, and my '95 PF had a fuel filter the size of a coffee can.
> The fuel filter is the first thing I'd replace... > [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] >> >> Any thoughts? Sly - 02 Jun 2005 12:11 GMT remove that junk fuel filter and buy a new one, it doesnt have to be from the dealer
> Since the dealer is a little inconveniently located, I pulled out the > existing fuel filter, blew backwards through it, [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > >> > >> Any thoughts? Chuck Tribolet - 02 Jun 2005 13:37 GMT I've seem some really crapaftermarket fuel fliters with almost no pleating of the element. And since it's a metal filter, it's hard to tell what's going on inside.
I'm going to get one from the dealer next time I get down that way. And also, this gives me a check on whether the problem was cumulative over four years, or I got tank of gas filled with crud.
> remove that junk fuel filter and buy a new one, it doesnt have to be from > the dealer [quoted text clipped - 33 lines] >> >> >> >> Any thoughts? Chuck Tribolet - 10 Jun 2005 02:03 GMT Well, it seems that it wasn't the fuel filter. It seemed better for a day or two after I cleaned out the old filter, and then it was back. So I got a new filter, installed it last night, and this afternoon it's doing it again. When I took the old filter off the second time, it wasn't full of crud like it was the first time.
What next?
Plugs and some very careful reading of the service manual (I have the real Nissan manual) are next on my short list, what would be on yours?
> I've seem some really crapaftermarket fuel fliters with almost no pleating > of the element. [quoted text clipped - 44 lines] >>> >> >>> >> Any thoughts? Gary B. - 10 Jun 2005 02:24 GMT > Well, it seems that it wasn't the fuel filter. It seemed better for a day > or two [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > Plugs and some very careful reading of the service manual (I have the real > Nissan manual) are next on my short list, what would be on yours? This is more of a personal curiosity, but could it be that the clutch is slipping? Other than that, it wouldn't hurt to hook up a scan tool and see what's going on...
Chuck Tribolet - 10 Jun 2005 03:06 GMT I don't think so. If the cluch were slipping, the tach would jump up a bit, then drop back. Instead, it just stops going up for a second. And I've had a slipping clutch on the family 1960 Comet when I was in high school.
Any good comparisons of scan tools? I've got a laptop.
>> Well, it seems that it wasn't the fuel filter. It seemed better for a >> day or two [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > slipping? Other than that, it wouldn't hurt to hook up a scan tool and > see what's going on... Gary B. - 10 Jun 2005 13:27 GMT > I don't think so. If the cluch were slipping, the tach would jump up a bit, > then [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > Any good comparisons of scan tools? I've got a laptop. The only scan tool I've tried is AutoTap. It works great, though it only reads the generic OBDII for my '98 Altima (though it can clear any DTCs). The only additional codes supported are for GM, Ford, and Dodge/Chrysler; since we happen to own several GMs and I'll soon be owning a Ford, it makes sense for me, but if you have mostly imports, you might want to shop around.
|
|
|