Hi folks,
I'm trying to help a buddy of mine get his wife's '92 240sx back on
the road. I own one also, and I just can't figure this problem out!
First, about a month or so ago it would stumble a bit and hesitate. It
gradually got worse, to the point that it would only stay running about
30seconds, then die, and refuse to start again(untill it sat for almost
a day). Now we can not get it started at all! Obviously this is a
progressive problem that has gotten worse. Here is what we have
checked/verified:
When it was still starting/stalling, this is what we checked:
-would only stay running by goosing throttle, keeping it above roughly
2.5-3k rpm.
-removed exhaust from collector-back
-no codes from ECU
-good fuel pressure, a little high though(it was 40psi at idle,
35nominal)
--I even used a hand vac to back down the FPR pressure, but it still
would stall.
-spark on all four wires
-swapped MAF for a known working one
-swapped in a known distributor for a working one, properly timed once
installed
--cap/rotor in good condion(we have spark...)
-new O2 sensor
-new coolant temp sensor
-clearing flood would not help to re-start, including clearing the
cylinders and drying spark plugs
-vac was a bit low(15"hg compared to nominal 22+"hg).
After it refused to start anymore, this is what we checked:
-still good fuel pressure and spark on all four
-crank position sensor is working: turning the gear manually fires each
injector with key->ON
-checked the vac lines that are easy to get to(ie canister controls,
etc)
-temp. disconnected Auxilary Air Valve from filter box(in case exhaust
was getting in there).
Thoughts? I would really appreciate some ideas! Perhaps a vac leak that
has progressivly gotten worse? I'm thinking it must be air/vac related,
because we have fuel+spark+timing.
Thanks,
Jamie
Peter Hill - 20 Jan 2006 17:33 GMT
>Hi folks,
> I'm trying to help a buddy of mine get his wife's '92 240sx back on
[quoted text clipped - 41 lines]
>Thanks,
>Jamie
Do a compression test. All plugs out, fit gauge, crank with wide open
throttle, repeat for other cylinders. If test results are low put a
small shot (2cc) of oil down each bore, crank engine to distribute the
oil and retest. If not improved valves or head gasket. If improved
rings and pistons.
Strip and clean the idle air system, manual idle screw and idle air
control valve. Check the throttle plate is clean.
slip0n0fall@gmail.com - 20 Jan 2006 18:50 GMT
Compression was done with a cold engine(should be warmed up): 135, 145,
125, 130, at 6000' elevation. That's on par with what they were before
these problem arrose.
I don't know if you've worked on a KA24DE engine before, but all the
idle control valves are tucked between the top and bottom intake
runners: *very* difficult to get to without removing the entire intake
manifold. We have considered this, but are trying to eliminate every
other possibility before going that far... but right now we are getting
close to being out of options. So you suspect an air leak?
Greatly appreciate the response!
Jamie