On 2/23/06 8:42 PM, in article MouLf.37304$Fw6.9915@tornado.tampabay.rr.com,
>> On 2/23/06 4:12 PM, in article
>> 1140732755.509692.110930@i40g2000cwc.googlegroups.com, "nfisherman"
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> I've never had anything newer than a 1985 Toyota pickup. Can you tell
> me how to remove the door panel in the '01 PF without tearing it up?
I can send you the pertinent pages from the '02 FSM if you need them. The
'01 should be the same.
> Speaking of old technology Vs. New, where the hell are the spark plugs
> and wires on the 3.5 DOHC?
There are no wires or distributor in the conventional sense. There is a
coil screwed to the top of each plug. If you look at the driver's side of
the engine just behind the oil filler and straight down from where the
throttle cables wrap around the throttle shaft, that 2 inch square black
thing with a big "O" stamped in the middle of it is one of the coils. The
plug is in the hole the coil is screwed into.
> Dealer wants a total of $208 to swap them out with titanium plugs.
I haven't changed mine yet on my '02 (not due for another 50,000 miles), so
I can't really assess whether its enough of a job to be worth $208 for
somebody else to do it. It does not look like much fun. Lots of stuff has
to be maved/removed to get to them.
> I don't need them yet (46,000 miles) but was just wondering what to do
> when I needed them.
Replacement is not due until 105,000 miles, so you won't need to worry about
it for a long time. They should be replaced with the same NGK number
PLFR5A-11 platinums that it came with.
TFM® - 25 Feb 2006 00:39 GMT
> On 2/23/06 8:42 PM, in article MouLf.37304$Fw6.9915@tornado.tampabay.rr.com,
>
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> I can send you the pertinent pages from the '02 FSM if you need them. The
> '01 should be the same.
If you would, email addy is not munged.
Thanks.
(a cold front came through today and it got down to 65 and the window
was really sluggish)

Signature
TFM®
willshak - 25 Feb 2006 12:06 GMT
>> On 2/23/06 8:42 PM, in article
>> MouLf.37304$Fw6.9915@tornado.tampabay.rr.com,
[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
> (a cold front came through today and it got down to 65 and the window
> was really sluggish)
"A cold front... down to 65" must be a local joke in South Florida, right?

Signature
Bill
In Hamptonburgh, NY
E Meyer - 25 Feb 2006 16:54 GMT
On 2/24/06 6:39 PM, in article tHNLf.13841$_c.10305@tornado.tampabay.rr.com,
>> On 2/23/06 8:42 PM, in article MouLf.37304$Fw6.9915@tornado.tampabay.rr.com,
>>
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
>
> If you would, email addy is not munged.
I'll see if I can extract the pages for you.
> Thanks.
> (a cold front came through today and it got down to 65 and the window
> was really sluggish)
I still think you should get a can of silicone spray at the local parts
store and try spraying the window tracks before you take the door apart. My
'96 I30 had this same problem and the silicone fixed it.
TFM® - 25 Feb 2006 19:43 GMT
> I still think you should get a can of silicone spray at the local parts
> store and try spraying the window tracks before you take the door apart. My
> '96 I30 had this same problem and the silicone fixed it.
I'll give it a shot. Does it come with a tube so you can actually aim
the spray?
Gimme some details. Do you roll the window all the way down and
concentrate the spray in the front and rear channels?

Signature
TFM®
E Meyer - 26 Feb 2006 02:13 GMT
On 2/25/06 1:43 PM, in article Ir2Mf.15778$_c.13903@tornado.tampabay.rr.com,
>> I still think you should get a can of silicone spray at the local parts
>> store and try spraying the window tracks before you take the door apart. My
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> Gimme some details. Do you roll the window all the way down and
> concentrate the spray in the front and rear channels?
Usually they have the little tubes taped to the cans just like WD-40. Spray
it in the rubber tracks front and rear as you have already guessed. Run the
window up and down a couple of times. You'll know immediately if it works.