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Car Forum / Nissan / Nissan Cars / March 20062001 Nissan Sentra - No Power
I am having a problem with my '01 Sentra GXE 1.8L with 145K odometer miles. My problem started Sunday evening when I was backing out of a parking spot when I noticed the car became sluggish and died. I cranked the car again and noticed the SES light was on, which wasn't previously. The car would idle roughly at 1K RPM and would intermittently drop to < .5K then back to 1K. I was able to "limp" the car home but the car would only gradually get to a speed of about 30 - 35 mph. If I tried to give it gas, it would decline to about 10 mph. I live in a rural area about 35 mi from the nearest Nissan dealer, but only 5 mi. from a Chrslyer dealer that services our minivan. So, I limped the car into their shop, getting it to gradual speeds of ~50 mph this time, but again not being able to apply any real pressure to the gas pedal. The Chrysler service tech said he could only do a preliminary scan as his equip could not do an in-depth scan on my Nissan. His initial scan points to the Mass Air Flow sensor/meter circuit, and the tech said that the part would cause the symptoms I described if it were bad. Other than that he could not give me any other information. He was leary to tell me to replace the part since it is $500 from the dealer and may, or, may not remedy my problem. So, I have purchased a new MAF sensor off eBay for ~$150 from a local company within 35 mi. of my house and will install it as soon as it comes in. If this does not work, what other sensors/parts would cause these symptoms? (O2 sensor, MAP sensor, bad injector, ??) Do parts houses such as Orielly or Autozone typically lend or rent code readers capable of pin-pointing such problems on a Nissan automobile? Also, does anyone know where to get a service manual for this vehicle? I cannot find a Haynes or Chilton manual for this car anywhere. >I am having a problem with my '01 Sentra GXE 1.8L with 145K odometer >miles. My problem started Sunday evening when I was backing out of a [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] >does anyone know where to get a service manual for this vehicle? I >cannot find a Haynes or Chilton manual for this car anywhere. definitely sounds like a MAF sensor but I'm not sure that it needs replacing. Did you try and just clean it? With 145k, it's VERY likely that you have a dirty MAF as well as a dirty throttle body. Also, check your plug wires. One or more could be shorting out. Cheap item to replace either way. If they're OEM, it's probably a good idea to replace them. Also check your plugs for fouling. Also, do *not* use carb cleaner to clean the throttle body! It's too caustic and will eat away the protective lining in the throttle body intake. The throttle body cleaner can also be used to clean the MAF. And, it could be that the fuel filter is clogged but I wouldn't think the SES light would come on because of fuel starvation. Don't rely on code readers, they don't tell you what's wrong, they only indicate what's *affected*. Big difference. > >I am having a problem with my '01 Sentra GXE 1.8L with 145K odometer > >miles. My problem started Sunday evening when I was backing out of a [quoted text clipped - 43 lines] > Don't rely on code readers, they don't tell you what's wrong, they > only indicate what's *affected*. Big difference. Agreed. I've never had to replace one on my Nissan, but on other cars cleaning usually clears it. Also check for vacuum hoses that may have fallen off or cracked. Spray some starter fluid around suspected vaccum hoses and see if the engine RPM changes. If so, you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Remco I changed out the Mass Air Flow sensor on Saturday morning, and that appears to have remedied the bulk of my problem. The car cranked up and I drove it out on the open highways around my house. The car was very responsive and had good pickup power when I punched the accelerator. This morning, however, on my 55 mi. commute to work into Houston, I detected a slight miss twice early on but it went away, but as I got into stop and go traffic in the downtown area the car stalled 3 times. It quickly restarted, but it seems that the car does not want to move forward at idle speeds. Is there something else that needs to be reset with the MAF sensor? Anything else that would be an easy check. >I changed out the Mass Air Flow sensor on Saturday morning, and that >appears to have remedied the bulk of my problem. The car cranked up [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] >Is there something else that needs to be reset with the MAF sensor? >Anything else that would be an easy check. did you clean the throttle body intake? No, I will. Also, on the MAF Sensor, I only replaced the sensor, not the entire housing. Should I remove and clean that as well? I also have not reset the SES light. I was looking that information up last night, but someone here at the office pointed out to me that by disconnecting the battery for 10-15 mins. would cause the clear the SES light AND possibly reset idle speed settings as well. Is this correct? I'm feeling my way around in the dark without my trusty Hanynes/Chilton manual. Sad, one isn't available on this year model. Thanks for the help. >No, I will. Also, on the MAF Sensor, I only replaced the sensor, not >the entire housing. Should I remove and clean that as well? The housing doesn't typically need to be cleaned however, check for intake obstructions. If your throttle body is dirty, (which is probably is), a intake restriction of any type can have a significant impact on idling and performance. Just remember to use *throttle body cleaner* NOT carb cleaner. Spray carb cleaner is WAY to caustic for the plastic coating in the intake body. >I also have not reset the SES light. I was looking that information up >last night, but someone here at the office pointed out to me that by >disconnecting the battery for 10-15 mins. would cause the clear the SES >light AND possibly reset idle speed settings as well. Is this correct? ..possibly. It depends on why the SES light was tripped. By law, a shop cannot reset the light unless they determine it's cause, since the cause may be emissions related. That could open a pandoras box of possible unnecessary repairs if you happen to fall upon the "hunt and replace" method of technician. The fact that your car is still behaving badly is an indication that something is still wrong (or dirty as the case may be). I'd recommend cleaning the throttle body and *then* disconnecting the battery, (but it'll have to be for *at least* 30 minutes, not 10 or 15), then take it for a test drive and see if the light AND the problems, go away. >I'm feeling my way around in the dark without my trusty Hanynes/Chilton >manual. Sad, one isn't available on this year model. ...personally, I think both of those manuals tell you just enough to get yourself in trouble. If you can swing the $$, get the genuine manual from your local dealer. They're significantly more comprehensive and well worth the extra money. >Thanks for the help. natch.. |
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